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Yep - did this last night on my hypermotard....I must confess I got to about page 8 and thought "yep - ill try that!" so....first and foremost ive got a little bit of slip if I crack the throttle open....but I don't think I wiped the plates down enough which ill do tonight....

Upside - ive had 3 hypermotards now and this clutch is now the smoothest ive ever had by a long way. Just for the record I used black lithium grease....

On the whole - brilliant.
 

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Clutch switch now works like a clutch lever

Finally got to do this to fix my nasty on/off dry clutch "switch" last night.

The difference is astounding, I can now confidently slip the clutch lever taking off from a stop without it grabbing and occasionally stalling the bike when hot.

I just pulled the pack, cleaned and lightly sanded each disk, completely sprayed both sides one after the other then went back through the stack and wiped off the excess.

Thanks to the OP and all of those who posted your experiences with this quick fix.
 

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Just to add to this post my clutch is now perfect. I added too much lithium grease and left too much residue on there so on the initial build back up of the clutch it was quite slippy. I lost the ability to lift the front off the throttle in second and third and snapping the throttle open in top caused a lot of slip too. So, last week I took the plates out again and cleaned them off making the clutch noticeably better (ran it for a week) and then again this morning I took the plates out and cleaned them with brake cleaner to get them really nice and dry, and, I think I'm there, if I was really picky right at the top of top gear theres a tiny bit but nothing to speak off (the clutch plates themselves have done just over 10k) so all in all I'm happy - got the ability to lift the front again in second and third quite easily. I've also not lost the smooth clutch at pullaway. I'm not sure if leaving it a week between cleaning gave the lithium grease a chance to bed in or if you did the whole applying the grease and then cleaned it off with brake cleaner would give the same result....otherwise all good!
 

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I have my own method to add to this thread, essentially taking into account everyone's little differences (see below)

White Lithium Grease
- Apply to Clutch Rings

Then the following methods were mentioned
- Put grease on, then simply wipe off
- Put grease on, then brush in, followed by wipe off
- Put grease on, let sit in sun for a few days, wipe off
- (TomTom Method) goo on, wipe like mad, the end

I have resorted to of course putting the grease on, wiping off any excessive or thick instances of the grease, then placing in an oven at low temp (I can't remember if I did 180 deg. (F) or if I did 220 deg. (F)) followed by wiping off the left over and smeared grease on the metal parts of the clutch rings.

After installing from using this method, the clutch rings 'instantly' would engage, would no longer shreik, and for about a year now, they have operated perfectly without any issue, slipping, sounds, or hesitation in engaging. Just an amazing technique for dry clutches on our Ducati Superbikes.
 

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I have my own method to add to this thread, essentially taking into account everyone's little differences (see below)

White Lithium Grease
- Apply to Clutch Rings

Then the following methods were mentioned
- Put grease on, then simply wipe off
- Put grease on, then brush in, followed by wipe off
- Put grease on, let sit in sun for a few days, wipe off
- (TomTom Method) goo on, wipe like mad, the end

I have resorted to of course putting the grease on, wiping off any excessive or thick instances of the grease, then placing in an oven at low temp (I can't remember if I did 180 deg. (F) or if I did 220 deg. (F)) followed by wiping off the left over and smeared grease on the metal parts of the clutch rings.

After installing from using this method, the clutch rings 'instantly' would engage, would no longer shreik, and for about a year now, they have operated perfectly without any issue, slipping, sounds, or hesitation in engaging. Just an amazing technique for dry clutches on our Ducati Superbikes.
You guys are overdoing it. Dont know why. Just do like TomTom sais and all systems are go. You clutch will be better then new. Will cost you a dollar or less and an hour or two of work. Thats all.

Jocke

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #267
Reason I originally advocated hitting the plates with the heat gun is it thins the grease and makes it wipe off much better.
When I do it cold I get a bit of slip for the first ride or so.. when I use the heat gun it hooks up almost straight away.
Either way it's the best tip ever... thanks again Tom.
 

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I feel lucky i have owned many Ducati Superbikes and never had a single clutch pack issue other than normal wear & clutch basket wear !

Disclaimer , This is not luck !
 

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You guys are overdoing it. Dont know why. Just do like TomTom sais and all systems are go. You clutch will be better then new. Will cost you a dollar or less and an hour or two of work. Thats all.

Jocke

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
With my streetfighter clean the discs with Bräkleen, spray some Biltema lithium grease, rub it off with cloth, install and you are good to go. Applying the grease several times should do no extra good.
 

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With my streetfighter clean the discs with Bräkleen, spray some Biltema lithium grease, rub it off with cloth, install and you are good to go. Applying the grease several times should do no extra good.
Simple and perfect.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 

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Reason I originally advocated hitting the plates with the heat gun is it thins the grease and makes it wipe off much better.
When I do it cold I get a bit of slip for the first ride or so.. when I use the heat gun it hooks up almost straight away.
Either way it's the best tip ever... thanks again Tom.
Dito for doing the thread mate!
 

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Is it normal to have to clean the plates and all friction pads every 500 miles? Symptoms are: loss of feel regarding clutch friction zone, slipping on launch, stalling on launches especially when stopped uphill. Perhaps the lubrication causes the fine clutch particles to clump together instead of blowing out through a vented cover? I cure these symptoms by wiping all steel plates with alcohol, including the all friction pads. But cleaning twice in the past 1000 miles on new Barnett plates has caused me concern.

I have a new clutch basket and new OEM plates ready to install whenever I want, and a spider retainer arriving Monday. The Barnett plates have another 2000 miles of life, or I could perform the switch and hope the spider retainer precludes the use of lithium grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #273
Cleaning the plates in alcohol is useless as the grease is mineral based and alcohol is water based and you are creating an emulsion on the plates surface.
Try kerosene, white spirit or degreaser and try again.
Make sure you are completely wiping the grease off after treatment, just like it was never there in the first place.
I'm guessing they are being over greased.
 
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