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I just ordered a set of RaceTech springs for my '92 SS and was wondering if I should also order the Gold Cartridge and have the shop do the install while it's there? Will I notice a big difference from just a spring swap to a spring swap and a revalve kit? I know just a spring swap made a big difference on my old '97 CR.
 

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Yes, do it . Make sure the shop sets the shim stack for your weight and riding preference. Oil height is critical also. Your front end will thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, thanks!
 

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I have just fitted a set of Gold Valves along with new springs rated for my weight.

This has got to be the single best improvement I have yet made to my bike. the results are so much better than I had hoped.

The bike just feels so much better controlled through the corners. It tracks better and eats up road imperfections. By the end of my firts ride I was deliberately seeking out pot holes and then giggling at the results.

The bike is much more comfortable on my wrists and will be much more comfortable for touring. the instument console is also getting an easier time over the bumps as well.

I can now feel and trust the front tyre grip much better and I am effortlessly maintaining a 5-10km higher pace through the corners without having to constantly readjust my lines. I am finding I can relax and focus more on the conering line.

NCR Rick at Cogent Dynamics happily answered my silly questions during the install and I think that he his advice on the valve stack and spring rate for my weight and style of riding is probably near perfect.

I had no idea just how bad the front forks were until this upgrade.
 

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Hey Wobbly,

Glad to hear the upgrade was worthwhile. I remember putting progressive fork springs into my GB400 many years ago before I wrote it off. After the first ride I wondered where my old bike had gone.

Would you mind publishing the all up cost for the upgrade?
 

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Hey Wobbly,

Glad to hear the upgrade was worthwhile. I remember putting progressive fork springs into my GB400 many years ago before I wrote it off. After the first ride I wondered where my old bike had gone.

Would you mind publishing the all up cost for the upgrade?
Race Tech gold valves ($149.00 US).
0.85Kg springs ($98.50).
new oil seals ($22.00 NZ).
Motorex 5W ($26.00 NZ).

It's a fairly easy job. Only special tools you need are

32mm spanner for the top bolts.
Torque wrench (30in -lbs) (tighten gold valve bolt).
Torque wrench 25 to 70 Nm ( axle, brake calipers and pinch bolts).
Something to compress spring while you do up top bolt (I had the perfect thing lying around in the garage for this - a spring 'c' spanner with the tangs in just the rightr space.)
Hacksaw to cut down existing or new spacers (new spacer tubing comes with springs)
Some spare rubber valve 'O' rings might be handy as it's easy to damage them when fitting them. I got some from Auckland Bearings on the north shore after I damaged two.
Vernier calipers or a micrometer will come in handy but arn't essential
A mate to compress the spring spacer while you tighten the top bolt
two trays from payless plastics to clean all the components in and keep left and right fork bits separate.

If you decide to do it and need a hand let me know.

Totally transforms the bike.
 

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Not a horrendous price. We are off to Rarotonga next month. I'll have to put this on my wish list once we recover from that.
 

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gold valves

I have a 900 ss 1993 with Showa forks and ordered the gold valves, but when I took the forks apart the compression unit has a valve and needle, there are no shims and no where to put the gold valve ? Any help would be appreciated.
 

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I have a 900 ss 1993 with Showa forks and ordered the gold valves, but when I took the forks apart the compression unit has a valve and needle, there are no shims and no where to put the gold valve ? Any help would be appreciated.
I'm not familiar with these particular forks, but I think I can help.
It sounds like you are looking at the adjuster, not the valving. There should be a large, long shaft that runs from the base of the fork to the cap. When you take the cap off, you will have to disconnect. There is also a bolt at the bottom of the fork you will have to undo. This will disconnect the long tube completely. Pull it out and look at the bottom (where the bolt that went through the fork bottom connects). This is the valving base. It will either be held on by a circlip or it is threaded. From the Showas I've worked with, it was always a criclip. I usually put the bolt back in a few threads and use a tabletop to push the cartridge up enough to see the circlip. Once the circlip is out I just use the bolt again to pull the cartridge out. The Racetech instructions should help you out after that.
 

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I went the same route as Wobblyas and its like riding a New bike. The New rear Ohlins was also added one word WOW....I love my bike more :D
 
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