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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks,

I've recently acquired an 2004 ST4S with damaged fairings, and it seems to me like the most economical option is to go naked. Some of you have done it, and I'd love to hear your advice and thoughts about a few things so I can plan out this conversion, and see if there's anything I'm overlooking. If you've got pics, I'd love to see some inspiration.

1. Headlight, marker lights, clocks: going to source a monster headlight, stay, and winkers. Any particular years to avoid for the headlight? Someone in another post offered wiring suggestions. I've got some brackets that I can fashion into a suitable support for the gauges. Is there anything else I need to know about/purchase before I do this?

2. Coolant overflow: Any suggestions? Mounting location? Simple is best.

3. Coil mounting. Where have you put yours?

4. Battery relocation: I plan to tuck it under the seat in a custom tray. How much cable will I need, and what gauge? Or is there a better place to put it? Anything I should be concerned about?

5. Miscellaneous electronics; I've noticed there are some other bits and bobs hiding under the cowls. Identification and concealment suggestions are much appreciated. Also, how water sensitive are these?

6.Cosmetics. Looking forward to the future, I'd like to swap tanks to get the top of the vertical cylinder visible. Are all tanks a direct swap? I saw one bike with, I think, a 996 tank that allowed you to see the top of the engine. Also, the seatside fairings are damaged, so I'll be removing those and probably going to a different tail light and seat setup in the future.

7. Bars: I'd like to get rid of the clip on bars and go to traditional bars. The way I'd prefer to do this is to swap the top of the triple to one with bar clamps. Again, thinking a monster part here, as it appears to mate up from the parts fiches if I stick with the same year. However, those are harder to find, and I've noticed lots from 90's era ducs. Will those swap to my triple?

Sorry for the deluge of questions, all info is appreciated before I dive it!
 

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All is doable, but it will cost you more time than you would think - however fun to do...

2016 naked version (still winter here - not yet finished):


1: monster headlight will swap easily - however wiring issues. Can use clocks from a monster too.
2: see Derky's solution - best solution.
3: see document.
4: see document.
5: see document. If you cannot identify them yourself, maybe you should get help on this. Furthermore, the workshop manual reveals a lot. Download from this site in the sticky section.
6: no information.
7: see document.

If you post your progress, many members will help you on this forum.

Have fun.
Rob

Use the document for additional information - download here: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7529290/Ducati%20ST4s/Building%20a%20Naked%20ST4s%20v2.pdf
 

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I'm going the same route, but only because the PO took it to the point of no return. It's a fair amount of work. As far as the headlight goes, I used a 2006 Monster headlight a friend gave me. Unless you have access to a wrecked one, it may be cheaper to buy aftermarket mounts. I went to the junkyard and cut the H4 headlight plug off a 2004(?) Honda Odyssey and soldered it into the factory wiring after determining which wires were which. Pretty straightforward. Same friend also gave me stock Monster front turn signals which wired right up and mounted to former coil tabs on the frame. Good enough for now. There's a ton of info here on these swaps, just depends on how long and how much. Have fun with it!

Here's mine with a Monster Diesel seat and cowl fitted too see how it would look - unfortunately too much work to justify.
 

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Radiator header kit of parts – header tank is from a Triumph 955, antifreeze is Yamaha premixed, 6mm and 8mm fuel grade hose is used, one 6mm to 8mm brass adapter.

Routing of the hose from the Rad to the header required the removal of the now redundant air intake snorkels.

The overflow from the rad took some working out as it comes out at the wrong angle, also the ST2 rad is a 6mm outlet and the tank is 8mm inlet. (I like what strikeF1 has done by getting the outlet from the rad moved, will do that myself one day). Found after some experimentation that a extended piece of 6mm fuel hose to a 6mm/8mm brass connector then 8mm fuel hose to the tank works well. The bends are held in place by a fabricated aluminium bracket (painted black)which is bolted to top rad mount.



 

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My coils eventually ended up under the cpu (different on the ST2). So Robs method will probably be best for you. I binned the evap cannister to make room.




re all the relays, connectors and bits and bobs you can go as far as you like really. Depends how much you like wiring : )







My advise is do one bit at a time and make sure it works. Don't set deadlines. Take photos/make diagrams/keep a record of what you changed/always disconnect the battery before wiring work (don't mean to be insulting if your a auto electrician or genius).


have fun,

derky
 

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6.Cosmetics. Looking forward to the future, I'd like to swap tanks to get the top of the vertical cylinder visible. Are all tanks a direct swap? I saw one bike with, I think, a 996 tank that allowed you to see the top of the engine. Also, the seatside fairings are damaged, so I'll be removing those and probably going to a different tail light and seat setup in the future.
The coolant overflow above will work for you, but if you don't have/aren't using the seat plastics the tank will be visible. Another member here used an aftermarket brake master cylinder (Rizoma style) for his overflow, but that only allows for a few ounces. Looks kinda cool to have the bright green fluid visible in a small reservoir and you can get the chinese knockoffs on ebay pretty cheap.. Maybe someone else can remember his name.

Oceanattitude did a K&N filter setup and relocated his battery and coils to below the tank, I'll likely do something similar as I'm missing the last 12" of frame and still have to figure out what I'm gonna do about it.
 

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The coolant overflow above will work for you, but if you don't have/aren't using the seat plastics the tank will be visible. Another member here used an aftermarket brake master cylinder (Rizoma style) for his overflow, but that only allows for a few ounces. Looks kinda cool to have the bright green fluid visible in a small reservoir and you can get the chinese knockoffs on ebay pretty cheap.. Maybe someone else can remember his name.

Oceanattitude did a K&N filter setup and relocated his battery and coils to below the tank, I'll likely do something similar as I'm missing the last 12" of frame and still have to figure out what I'm gonna do about it.
This could be the one you are thinking of......

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/1687298-post1.html
 

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That's one of the better ones I've seen if you're doing a different seat, but the one I was thinking of is a lot more subtle. Moto Motivo's is off an SBK if I remember correctly. The one I was trying to find is actually a billet brake fluid reservoir with a clear window. I'm prob gonna go that route, just gotta pull the trigger on one of those chinese ebay jobs.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Awesome, thanks for all the links. I've started gathering parts per some of the suggestions in here and should be getting started very soon. First step is cleaning up the front end, for which I've picked up a monster headlight and bracket, and am waiting for some ducati blinkers. That rad overflow looks really good, but is it big enough? My current obsession is finding something that visually gels, something just like that. I'll post pics and progress as it happens!
 

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Re the front end stuff: Just remembered - there's somewhere else you can hide a couple of bits. You can make a plate that goes under the bottom triple tree. Just remove the little wind deflector make a template out of cardboard and transfer to Aluminium. You can't see it when it's fitted.

Having tried several things on it eventually I put the regulator/rectifier and the air temp sensor on it. Keeps reg rec nice and cool.

Below is a picture before it was bolted on using the bolt holes the deflector was mounted to.

As you can see my reg/rec is a slimline Electrex job which helps.




I put the barometric pressure sensor on the left side of the airbox.


Keep the updates coming when you get started.
 

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You can make a plate that goes under the bottom triple tree. Just remove the little wind deflector make a template out of cardboard and transfer to Aluminium. You can't see it when it's fitted.
That's awesome! Wouldn't have thought to use that space and I need to mount a regulator. Any reason not having the deflector on there would be an issue?
 

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Mine has been like this for over two years with no issues.

If you are only mounting the reg/rec the plate could be smaller, maybe even bolt it to the deflector(?).

derky
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi guys,

It took a while to get the bike as it needed "shaken", the Japanese roadworthiness inspection. I had a local company take it in as it was too difficult to take it in myself. It was finally dropped off to me on Friday night looking like this.


I had already collected a lot of parts and got to work on Saturday with this high dollar coolant catch can. Also started removing bits and organizing stuff.



Got everything more or less together and took it for a spin on Sunday afternoon. Still needs some work, but I can at least ride in the interim.



Finally, I've still got to rewire the headlight. Derky gave me some instructions, but I have a few surplus wires, as there are 8 going into my headlight connector. Before I crack out the multimeter, does anyone know what the extra wires do? Should I just tape off the extras and tuck them away somewhere? Here's a pic, any ID will be much appreciated! It's got yellow with brown trace, yellow with blue trace, orange, blue, yellow with black trace, white, and 2 black.



That aside, there's still lots to do; a lot of wire needing to be organized and squared away, mount the R/R and fuse panel up permanently, relocate the coils and battery, hook up the grip heaters I mounted, clean a leaking fork seal, source and install rear cowls and grab handle, and get the speedo more permanently mounted. But, it's a start!
 

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Is that connector from the ST or the Monster lamp?

My St didn't have a connector it was wired straight to the bulb holders (not sure if that is normal or not).

There is a workshop manual link in the 'stickies' at the top of the forum which may be worth a look....

Other than that it's like you say ... out with the multimeter. Regarding wires you don't need just cut em off and tape em up is the easy way. Eventually I stripped all the covers off the front loom so they could be shortened/rerouted etc, cut out those not in use and removed the big connector on the left side at the start of the front loom soldering the wires into the loom (as it is known to be troublesome) and moving relays etc under the seat. But, that is a lot of work and probably a winter project.

My advise if you want to ride the bike now is do the bare minimum and go back and do bits as and when you feel inspired.

derky
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Is that connector from the ST or the Monster lamp?

My St didn't have a connector it was wired straight to the bulb holders (not sure if that is normal or not).

that is a lot of work and probably a winter project.

My advise if you want to ride the bike now is do the bare minimum and go back and do bits as and when you feel inspired.

derky
Yeah, that's what went into the ST lamp, not sure if it's normal. My bike had the facelifted headlight (anybody need one?) so maybe it's different from yours. I'll find some time this week to try and figure them out, but I reckon your instructions ought to get the basic functionality down. Ultimately, there is a rats nest of wires in there that I'll slowly sort out as I have time. It's awfully tempting to pull out the whole harness and clean it up without the big connector and all that extra wire, but that means not riding for a few days:( So, eventually. Might see if I can source up another harness, get it the way I want it, then install.

edit: Just found a complete ST4S harness for 4000 yen, about 30USD. I know what I'm doing over my next holiday...
 

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revilo;5747609 Finally said:
ID will be much appreciated![/B] It's got yellow with brown trace, yellow with blue trace, orange, blue, yellow with black trace, white, and 2 black.

That's a VW connector.

Mixing VW and Ducati electrics could bring out some sweet gremlins tho, if your into troubleshooting for fun. )
 
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