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figured out most of my electrical problems by using these boards and i think im close. now when i start it i get the full check no lights but nothing when i hit the button. well not nothing the headlight dims and i get a loud singular click from down near the battery. ok, any thoughts? ive been in all the boards with no luck. had to resort to riding my wife's buell blast just to get in the wind, please help i am getting desperate!:)
 

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Sounds like a dead battery, poor connection? Maybe it is the solenoid click, then no volts left.
Take off the fairing and hook the voltmeter positive to the solenoid[from batt.], neg. to ground. Push the button while watch ing the voltmeter, less than a steady 12-14 means a problem. Check at the battery itself, pos to pos neg to neg, meter to batt. If bad , new battery time. If okay, check the connections[batt. to solenoid]
I f voltage was okay at solenoid in wire, check the other side of it[sol. to starter]. I f less there, maybe you need a new solenoid.
Check the connectors at the small wires to the solenoid, make sure they are clean AND Tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks! now i have a homework assignment. i will update later with progress. would everything "power up" ok if it were the battery? in my experience with cars when the battery goes/is going none of the electrics tend to function. thanks again.
 

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figured out most of my electrical problems by using these boards and i think im close. now when i start it i get the full check no lights but nothing when i hit the button. well not nothing the headlight dims and i get a loud singular click from down near the battery. ok, any thoughts? ive been in all the boards with no luck. had to resort to riding my wife's buell blast just to get in the wind, please help i am getting desperate!:)
It would help if you could be clear. I don't know what you're talking about. You can start the bike but nothing happens when you hit the "button"? Is your battery up to snuff? Have you been charging it?
 

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i havent tested the battery yet (running out of tool funds/know i will be getting one today though....) but i did have the battery on the trickle charger while the bike has been out of commission. when i turn the key the dash lights up, it runs through the check and i can hear the fuel pump cycle. when i press the starter button the headlight dims and i get a loud singular click from the battery box area.

also, i can no longer get the bike into neutral, going to check the switch today. i know the light works because it illuminates during startup.

thanks for all help
 

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also, i can no longer get the bike into neutral, going to check the switch today. i know the light works because it illuminates during startup.

thanks for all help
You can't put the gearbox into neutral? You need to fix it off course but the bike doesn't start in gear unless you activate the clutch switch, right?
 

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If your battery voltage is down, even just a little, you may get your instrument cluster to illuminate, headlights and fuel pump to operate but, not enough juice for the starter.
I just saw the post questioning the neutral issue, is that resolved? Is the bike in neutral, light or no light should be easy to figure out. Then with an illuminated neutral light, you may be sure of your neutral switch.
Back to your battery...assume your body work is off or most of it anyway so that you can access the battery. If you don't have a fully charged battery lying about, you can try a jump start from your auto battery, very careful with the connection of the cables. With bike ignition switch off, last step connection should be at your car's battery posts. Then try to give her a start.

If the above works, my guess is you will need a fresh charge on your battery (and then regularly keep it on battery tender) or a new battery and still recommend a battery charger...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You can't put the gearbox into neutral? You need to fix it off course but the bike doesn't start in gear unless you activate the clutch switch, right?
tried to start it in first with clutch pulled in and got the "click" sound. i can shift it and it feels as if its in neutral, the light just doesn't come on. going to get multi meter now and battery/solenoid test is next. more to come. thanks to all!
 

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tried to start it in first with clutch pulled in and got the "click" sound. i can shift it and it feels as if its in neutral, the light just doesn't come on. going to get multi meter now and battery/solenoid test is next. more to come. thanks to all!
Well, it sounds like the solenoid is operating, that's the click you are hearing. It's possible that it isn't passing the juice to the starter, you should get 12+ volts to ground on that terminal. You can check battery voltage but that's not an indicator of the battery's service life. A dying battery can charge up but drop to nothing when you put a load on it. That's why they are rating in amps/per/hour.

So if you charge it up (13+ volts) and it runs out of steam quickly it is on it's death bed, assuming your connections have little resistance and nothing is binding.

You can tell if it is in neutral if you upshift from first into it and you can turn the rear wheel. Could be you bulb is out or you have a neutral circuit connection problem. Even so, it should start in gear with the clutch switch activated with the side stand up.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
just checked the battery. with no load on it it came out to 12.76.

tried to check the starter/solenoid(?) ran batter leads to back screws and put multi on connector pins (plastic snap connection) couldnt draw a charge. when i checked the posts that battery leads connected to it was still at 12.76, so does that mean juice is going into starter unit and the problem is in there?

also put more gas into the tank and the light and flashing bar are still on the dash, should be enough in there to turn light off...joy. and continued thanks!
 

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just checked the battery. with no load on it it came out to 12.76.

tried to check the starter/solenoid(?) ran batter leads to back screws and put multi on connector pins (plastic snap connection) couldnt draw a charge. when i checked the posts that battery leads connected to it was still at 12.76, so does that mean juice is going into starter unit and the problem is in there?

also put more gas into the tank and the light and flashing bar are still on the dash, should be enough in there to turn light off...joy. and continued thanks!
So you were out of gas?

The solenoid sends the current to the starter motor. It does that with a relay (a control circuit). So when you hit the starter button it activates the relay, which is a small electro magnet, and it closes the connection from the battery to the starter.

So juice to the solenoid doesn't mean anything except that the connection to the battery is good. When you hit the button you should have the voltage to the other post (large wire to starter).

Your voltage is a little low for a charged up battery though.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
progress!!

all thanks for all of your help. i went back to the beginning and checked all the wires. an overlooked (at least twice!) ground was wired poorly. all electrics are now firing! had enough gas and is now registering properly. neutral light is back to normal as well. now when i hit the switch it wants to start!

it catches, and this is where i am at now, it wont idle or stay running. i am getting a very slow cer-chunk, cer-chunk, cer- chunk for a couple of seconds and then it cuts out. just repulled (fresh) plugs and re checked the gap, they were good. worried it is my belts, first time ive ever changed anything like this... noticed a few oil spots and hit them with the torque wrench again. not sure where to go...
 

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my mechanically inclined friend came by for a listen. seems to think its the timing belts. pulled everything back off (except for the tank!) to check the belts. all the notches still line up perfectly. not sure what the problem is. only thing i noticed was that the horizontal eccentric was locked in the wrong position-per Lt's specs- so i pulled that off and will re-tension later. should i pull the belts or am i ok? the marks on the cams and the "center" flywheel are all exactly five notches from where they should be (where the belts were when i cut the engine, i counted the number of spaces and they were all equal). help?
 

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I have to give you credit for persistance, at this point I think I would have thrown in the towel and put it on a trailer to take to the Duc dealer.

medic5
 

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just checked the battery. with no load on it it came out to 12.76.

tried to check the starter/solenoid(?) ran batter leads to back screws and put multi on connector pins (plastic snap connection) couldnt draw a charge. when i checked the posts that battery leads connected to it was still at 12.76, so does that mean juice is going into starter unit and the problem is in there?

also put more gas into the tank and the light and flashing bar are still on the dash, should be enough in there to turn light off...joy. and continued thanks!
I'm tying to make sense of this :confused::confused:
OK so you get 12.76V at the battery off-load and I think you're saying you also get this at the solenoid terminal.
What volts does the battery read when you press the starter button? If it drops more than a volt or so the battery needs charged or is faulty with a high internal resistance. If the voltage drops below 10.5V the ECU shuts down, so it will have no chance of starting.
One other possibility is that the starter motor is jammed.
 
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