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Discussion Starter #1
Finally got around to putting one of these on the bike. I have a set of horns and 25W LED lights to go on as soon as I get the mounts for them. Already have a few extra power sockets (3 x USB and 1 x cigarette lighter socket) at the front of the bike plus I have a pair of "dash cams" that need power.

My GPS is using the factory GPS power already so I haven't bothered connecting it to the Fuzeblocks.

So at the moment I've just connected the Topbox power (I used a powerlet tank bag kit) and the extra power sockets to the Fuzeblocks. I'm waiting on a couple of 12v-to-mini-USB cables for the cams but at the moment running the front camera from one of the USB sockets (on the handlebar).

I installed the Fuzeblocks FZ-1 under the pillion seat, bolted to the front. I drilled some holes. You can see here the nyloc nuts above the remote reservoir for the rear shock:



and on the other side, the screws for those nuts:







Somehow I completely screwed up the focus on this shot, but you get the idea:



These little stubby screwdrivers are handy. This one lives in my case for all my GoPro mounts, batteries etc.




The next few photos show the existing wiring around the battery just for the stuff I had already connected (topbox power, Scottoiler eSystem, front USB/12v power sockets):



 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
You can order a wiring harness for the FZ-1 from their website. It's worth getting. The black protective wrap for the cables is great. I cut a few lengths for the power/switched trigger going to the FZ-1, and for 6 x ground and 6 x 12v+ leads. I cut 6 x 10A cables for ground, and 6 for positive and ran them through some holes I drilled in the side of the under seat storage. I have only connected 2 circuits, the rest are waiting until I get everything for spotlights, cameras and horn sorted. So to finish everything I just need to remove the rear right side panel again to access those cables.

Brown is ground, green is postiive:



Here is what the battery area looks like now. You'll see the blue Posi-Tap which has tapped into the positive for the right side factory accessory socket as the trigger for switched with ignition:



Once I have everything connected I will probably add some more of that protective wrap around the green positive cables:



Tool bag still fits no probs. I need to get another tyre plug kit as I finally had to use the one that came with the bike last week when I got a puncture. Tyre was getting replaced within a week anyway so no big deal other than having to plug it on the side of the motorway where there wasn't much of a shoulder.



Here you can see the cable pigtails from the FZ-1 that I haven't used yet, tucked in behind the right rear side panel:



Since that red stubby screwdriver I showed earlier already lives with my GoPro mounts, I went looking for another one for the bike tool bag while I was getting some cable and found this little sucker for AUD$3. Pretty handy since it has a little flat blade bit that fits the Fuzeblocks screws:



and finally here's a shot of the bar mounted 12v cigarette lighter socket and USB socket. The USB socket is on the right and has the cable for the front camera fitted, with a little rubber sleeve that clips over the socket to keep the weather out. When I get the USB power cables I am waiting on for the cameras, this socket will become free for general use. Normally I connect the GoPro remote to that socket:



The one thing I haven't sorted yet is a switch for the spot lights. Ideally I would like a 3 way switch that is surface mounted as I would like to mount it on the mirror stalk (this is also where the GoPro remote goes, which is easily operated without taking the hand off the bar). I want a 3 way switch so I can run the spotlights either using the high beam switch, or independantly, plus having the off position. If anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears :)
 

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Nice install..
 
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Are you running power to the horn through the FZ-1? I added an Eastern Beaver 3-outlet fuse box, but when I added a Strebel air-horn, given the 30 amp draw I decided to use a separate relay. I wired across the existing horn to trigger the relay, so the high draw from the horn doesn't go through either the fuse block or the CANBUS system. Plus it gives you a nice 2-horn system- since the Strebel takes a fraction of a second to "spin up", a brief tap on the button triggers only the stock horn, for a friendly reminder beep. But hold it down for more than half a second and the nasty Strebel kicks the cager where he/she lives...

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Are you running power to the horn through the FZ-1? I added an Eastern Beaver 3-outlet fuse box, but when I added a Strebel air-horn, given the 30 amp draw I decided to use a separate relay. I wired across the existing horn to trigger the relay, so the high draw from the horn doesn't go through either the fuse block or the CANBUS system. Plus it gives you a nice 2-horn system- since the Strebel takes a fraction of a second to "spin up", a brief tap on the button triggers only the stock horn, for a friendly reminder beep. But hold it down for more than half a second and the nasty Strebel kicks the cager where he/she lives...



Dave


Hi Dave,

The FZ-1 has a 30A master fuse and the instructions for the horns say to use a 20A fuze for the pair of horns. So I'm hoping a 10A circuit for each horn is going to be ok. If not I will have to wire horn power separately, I am going to use the existing horn as the trigger, which I'm keeping, so it'll be a triple tone horn once it' all connected.




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Nice install. I just brought my Multi home and was looking to do this very thing.

I have a USB and powerlet port in the compartment under the pillion. Anyone know if I can just cut a USB (or powerlet) charging cord to trip the relay in the FZ1? That would keep me from having to tap another wire.
 

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You could use the powerlet cord for sure since it supplies 12V, but the USB cord likely supplies 5V which might not be enough to trigger the relay in the FZ1. The "Adding A Relay (Switched Power)" section on this page FUZEBLOCKS.COM states the FuzeBlock is looking for 12V on the trigger wire.

I used a lead from one of the accessory power ports as the trigger wire for the FuzeBlock I installed in my '14.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nice install. I just brought my Multi home and was looking to do this very thing.

I have a USB and powerlet port in the compartment under the pillion. Anyone know if I can just cut a USB (or powerlet) charging cord to trip the relay in the FZ1? That would keep me from having to tap another wire.
You are intending to cut it to use the Fuzeblocks and no longer use it for its intended purpose? Should be fine for the Powerlet port. For the USB just check it with multimeter first to make sure you're getting 12v positive and not 5v.

Post some pics here when you've done it :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
the USB cord likely supplies 5V which might not be enough to trigger the relay in the FZ1.
Yep, what Jazzzz said :) Not sure what that USB cord is like but if you can get power before it does the conversion it will 12v. Probably just easier to use the Powerlet
 

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Thanks all. I didn't notice the 12V thing on the FZ1. On my FJR, I used a low volt relay on a Blue Sea box. I like the simpler install of the enclosed relay. Doesn't look like much room for a Blue Sea either. Anyway, appreciate the help. Will post updates when I get it done.
 

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Looks like a pretty clean install. Thanks for sharing!

If you want to hide the frayed ends of the expandable tubing, you could wrap it in self-fusing tape. Something like this, but I have no idea what's close to you:

Rescue Tape - Fix It All with Silicone Rescue Tape

That self-fusing tape is great though because it only sticks to itself, has no adhesive so it doesn't leave any residue either.

As for your spot light switch, what do you mean by "surface mount". I'm trying to picture how a three-position switch will be mounted to your mirror stock. The first two things I thought of were either a rocker switch or a toggle switch but they are both fairly large and bulky. Then I thought, I bet eBay has something! And they do:

Black 12V CNC Motorcycle Handlebar Grip Headlight Spot Fog Light On-Off Switch

12V 16A Motorcycle Bike 22mm Handlebar Grip Headlight On Off Switch Waterproof | eBay

Dual 7/8'' Motorcycle Handlebar High Low Beam Headlight Spot Light On Off Switch | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter #12
As for your spot light switch, what do you mean by "surface mount".
What I had in mind was something like this, but instead of those 2 switches having a 3-way rocker switch. This could be mounted flat, with the cable coming out the side of it.

I don't need it now though, as I bought the Skene lighting controller and run the LED spotlights as daytime running lights on 20% power (that's configurable in 10% increments between 0 and 100%), which go full power when I hit the high beam.
 

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Well, my idea for the switch works.

I run a powered tank bag so I don't have much use for the under seat plugs. I found a powerlet plug like this:
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/powerlet-right-angle-plug The center pin is 12v powered with the ignition. I wish it was like my FJR head lights. It's not powered until the engine starts but it was quick and pretty simple to set up.

On the '16 model the tray under the pillion seat isn't as deep as Pgalligan's. I can mount it sideways, in the same spot. There's a small cover, in front of the battery, over the rear shock reservoir (under the rider seat). It has a couple small holes in it that I'd have to cover but that might work.

No pics yet. The only real progress I've made is to get the GPS harness from the bars to the seat.
 
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