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I'm NOT an AAAAA-d-m-i-n
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I replaced my fuel filter today as well as the high-pressure hoses that connect the pump and filter. The hoses were just preventative maintenance since I was already in the tank. I witnessed a fellow 748 rider experience one of these split stranding his bike about 85 miles from home. I gave him a rode home on the ZRX though.

Anyhow, I also replaced the o-ring that seals the tank/pump assemply too. The pump assembly was a major PAIN IN THE @$$ to get back in. The new ring is less compressed making for a pretty tight fit. I called Rainman for a pep talk, but his 900ss is different. I finally got it back together, but not before noticing that the o-ring hadn't sealed properly. Moral to this story... *** Check the o-ring seal from the inside of the tank *** Shine a flashlight inside the tank and double check that seal even if it felt like it went in smoothly. This will save you a lot of work if it's not sealed properly and you've already put everything back together. I lucked out and caught it before reassembly.

Hasta whanever,
 

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:)

Good job..

Some tips for next time.. (spelling? i'm from Sweden!!)

1. put some lubricant (like petroleum jelly) on the new o-ring.
2. place the pump back in the tank gently.
3. use 3 longer screws first, so as to press the oring in with equal pressure all around.

and when the o-ring is in place, yeah.. put the right screws back.. ;-)
 

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I just did that same install a week ago.... I used some teflon loob from my bicycle tool kit that aided greatly during the install process. But I do agree, it was certainly a pain in the ass!
 

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Oh ya, been there and done that! I used lithium grease and the longer screw method, but still managed to get a kink in the o-ring. The cure was to spend a lot of time by only turning each screw 1/2 turn before moving to the next one. It took a few minutes, but worked like a charm. I also bought an extra o-ring...just in case.
 

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I'm NOT an AAAAA-d-m-i-n
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DOH!!!
I didn't even think about using screws to get as much equal pressure. I kept pressing it in by hand and rubber mallet method. Stupidity and persistence can pay off sometimes. I even searched the archives for help, but found none. I posted this thread for the next poor sap that has to do it.
 

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I had the same problem...only I didn't notice it was kinked...not a fun experience when you dump some gas in the tank and it pours all over everything underneath...including freshly painted body work. My problem was not only did the o-ring kink, but one of the mounting bolts stripped the hole in the tank, I had to cob it together until I finally got a used tank to paint again then used the lube method putting the new o-ring in. Checking from inside the tank works great to make sure everything is ok. Careful tightening those bolts...if you strip any of those holes it's impossible to fix!!! There isn't enough metal to re-tap the hole, the mounting holes are only riveted in, so you can't drill it out and helicoil it either. I just mounted the sending unit as tight as i could, then used 2 entire tubes of "GOOP" around the edge of the sending unit...

-Colin
 

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Well, my 749 fuel pump assembly is fairly easy to remove and install. Just have a few extra O rings on hand in case.
 

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I'm pulling the tank on my 999r now. Need some clear coat touch up. 1st timer
1. How do I get off the two hoses that go into the tank at the back?
They have that round plastic piece surrounding the petrcock.
2. Do I need to remove the pump to get a little clear coat work done?
2. Are the two hoses that go into the front of the tank for overflow/air?
 

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Patience and persistence pays off here. I've done a few on Ducs as the other posters have.

Using the longer screw method works well. But.. It always scares me to use longer screws in blind threads. Don't run the screws in the threads too deep. It could???? be possible to have them push through the internal captive nuts into the tank. Then you wou;d have leaky threads forever that will require sealing the screws.

When tightening the assembly down it seems the O ring always wants to pop out in one area or another. I use a popsickle stick that has the end flattened and sanded very smooth to coax the O ring down as the pump plate is progressively worked into the tank. Works like a charm.
 

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Rubber mallet?? I was afraid I'd squash the tank just by trying to press the plate in by hand.

I found the re-installation process a bit daunting the first time too. What gave me a good hint as to the tightness of the fit was the amount of white grease that was applied to the o-ring and plate by the person that had the plate off the last time before me; probably the factory as I don't think the plate was ever removed by the previous owner.

The first time I did this was when I swapped the plate over to QD's. I think I used half a jar of Vasaline on the o-ring. Some firm pressure with my back into it and the thing popped into place. White grease might have been the better choice.

Good idea about replacing the hoses too, Sean.

RearView, what brand of teflon lube did you use?
 

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Senior Moment
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Great tips.

emullo said:
Good job..

Some tips for next time.. (spelling? i'm from Sweden!!)

1. put some lubricant (like petroleum jelly) on the new o-ring.
2. place the pump back in the tank gently.
3. use 3 longer screws first, so as to press the oring in with equal pressure all around.

and when the o-ring is in place, yeah.. put the right screws back.. ;-)
 

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Don't think anyone mentioned - to use a brand new O-ring every time? They tend to lengthen with age/use, and are MUCH more difficult to re-install than a new one, which has a much smaller diameter than the used ones.
 

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Thank god for this thread. I would still be trying to install my damn o-ring if it wasnt for this thread. Given it took me 2 o-rings to get it right but atleast i learned from experience and now im sure i can do it correctly everytime.
 

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HOLY THREAD RESURECTION

Ok I used the search function but couldn't get a hit. Google threw this one up.

Thought I had this sorted for the pump replacement on my SSie. Then I found another link.

Removing and refitting the gas tank filler cap (2000 M900 ie)

Not sure anyone here mentioned the black sealing ring.

It may make it easier, maybe it got missed in dispatches.

I think I'll give that a crack over the weekend unless there are cries of NO!!!

Cheers


Mal
 

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HOLY THREAD RESURECTION
Indeed. :D


I think I'll give that a crack over the weekend unless there are cries of NO!!!
I have done this on my Monster and it is a fiddly job working inside that tank, unless you have the hands of a little Girl, so prepare for grazed knuckles & bruised wrists.

Then to add to the mix you'll need to battle the filler cap 'O' ring back into place - set aside a few hours and practice your favourite swear/curse words in advance, good luck... ;)
 

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hmm 99+ Supersports are different.

I could wind the screws in until the cows come home to roost.. won't do shyte, they are all blind holes and there only to mount the cap.

The 8 grub screws don't have holes to go into but there is a slot all around the tank.

Looks like it's going to be lots of vaso and some not so gentle pressure.

dammit, the whole Rainman tank thread and he never talked about putting the cap secion back in .. hahaha.

Cheers anyway.


edit: SSie are dead simple. I was expecting the huge battle. New o'ring slips into the hole. Black seal needs to up in place, filler top drops into the hole and with a little firm pressure it seats home. Grub screws are just into a slot around the top. easy as.

When I figure out how to take the photos off my stupid POS Iphone I'll load them up.

I am logged in on my IP5 but can't see where to access my gallery.

Cheers
 

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Patience and persistence pays off here. I've done a few on Ducs as the other posters have.

Using the longer screw method works well. But.. It always scares me to use longer screws in blind threads. Don't run the screws in the threads too deep. It could???? be possible to have them push through the internal captive nuts into the tank. Then you wou;d have leaky threads forever that will require sealing the screws.

When tightening the assembly down it seems the O ring always wants to pop out in one area or another. I use a popsickle stick that has the end flattened and sanded very smooth to coax the O ring down as the pump plate is progressively worked into the tank. Works like a charm.
I haven't done this job yet, but my Duc mechanic advised putting the pump assembly in the freezer for a couple of hours before installing it. Says it will drop right in.
 
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