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Actually, maintaining steady throttle is safer. ANY additional bar input, even unintentional additions from twisting the throttle grip could prolong the wobble or intensify it. If you have your wits about you, slight application of the rear brake can help, but usually we are puckered too much for our wits to be working :)

This kind of thing is normal and to be expected on rare occasions. Unless it happens on smooth straight Tarmac, there is nothing wrong with your bike.
You're right.. not a thing wrong with the bike, except that it was designed for crisp turn in.

However, in my 28 years of riding experience both on and off road, the only solution to fixing the start of a tank slapper is to give the bike full throttle. Loading the front end via brake, reduction of throttle or any other method (leaning forward, etc) results in the same or more wobble. Hit the gas, lean back, ride lose (don't death grip the bars) and it'll fix your problem 100% of the time.
 

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I am a very firm believer that dirt bike riding makes you a much better road rider.
1. You get used to front and rear wheel slides and learn NOT to lock up and panic - or you fall off a lot.
2. You learn to modulate braking to achieve max braking without losing traction - or you fall off a lot.
3. You set up the bike controls and handlebar relationship so that you ride with relaxed arms and elbows out. This is key in being able to let the bike do its thing while maintaining steering, throttle and braking control. Elbows out and grip the tank with your knees to add your bodies inertia to the bike's turning moment . This is exactly why I spaced my bars closer.

And Nickpilot, I cant help but totally disagree with

I have ridden big loaded motard style bikes across the Australian desert and ridden KTM 990 Advs across Malaysia and into the palm oil plantations on the slimy red mud roads. If you get wayward, crossed up, tank slappy, doing nothing means you eat it big time. More often than not, careful throttle increase is the answer and sometime it is slam it open. If the front end is squirrelly or following a rut, the bike will peel out from under you unless you unload the front by opening the taps. Doing nothing will see you off. Like most things, you have to train your reflexes to do the right thing which is often the opposite of what your brain tells you.

Just my opinion.
And a valuable, accurate opinion at that.

This is one reason I purchased a set of Raptor (ATV) Pro Taper handlebars for my MTS. Since I've not been home in a while, they're still sitting and waiting to be installed. The local MC shop wanted $175 to install them, I said no and will do it when I go home.

I spent a few days of trying new bars on the triple clamps at the local MC store trying to find a bend that was just a bit taller and a bit more pulled back then the stock bars. The goal is to have a bit more control on the bike and give me a better riding position for more control. Helps that they're black and will look great on my Ti MTS!

I've honestly thought about adapting a Scotts steering stabilizer to the MTS... probably won't happen as it's pretty stable already.
 
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