[Kitesurfer]

Remember also that bikes like to (in fact they're designed to) follow camber. A groove in the road presents as a radical camber change, and depending on which wheel hits it first you could get a short moment of imbalance between the front and rear (front wanting to go one way and rear wanting to go another), which then take a few moments to "settle" once both wheels are back on even camber.

There's also a leverage effect with such a wide rear wheel: when you hit some steep camber, the "force of the road" is pushing up through a point on the rear wheel that is NOT in the centre. It's off to the "up hill" side. This has the effect of tipping the bike down hill a little, and the front typically follows a little later due to rake/trail effects.

Again, the bike is designed to behave this way, and will always correct itself if you let it. Grabbing on tight to the bars reduces the bike's ability to sort itself out.

Rob

 

[Kitesurfer]

TO/FT - if you can maintain a relaxed grip on the bars while 'giving it the berries', then good for you. Not sure if all readers of this thread would be as calm, cool, and collected in that situation - or as capable of managing that de-weighted front once it sets back down.

For most of us not gifted with Casey Stoner levels of bike control, the best and most realistic answer is to neither chop the throttle nor whack it open, but to simply do nothing except loosen our grip on the bars and let the bike adjust itself.

+1 don't make any sudden changes is the key. If it's on, leave it on. If it's off, leave it off.

 

[Kitesurfer]

Lots of good advice here, but for any noobs, please be careful when "testing" any of the techniques. There are so many subtly different scenarios that some techniques apply very well in one and very badly in another.

A good example of "a little bit of knowledge is dangerous" is the common misinterpretation of the California Superbike School level 1 basic skill of continuously opening the throttle during the turn. Each turn is different: radius, camber, surface, etc. not to mention whether or not you've positioned the bike correctly as you enter... I've heard experienced instructors tell noobs that if they feel they're not going to make it around the corner, they shouldn't brake or roll off the gas: they should "gas it" to make the bike turn tighter!

Of course this can work (witness Casey Stoner on T3 Phillip Island), but if the bike is in the wrong place and still has plenty of rear traction, gassing it will merely make the inevitable crash more painful.

I guess all I'm saying, is you need to consider the entire scenario before applying any particular "magic cure".