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Discussion Starter #1
I had complained last summer to a dealer I use in Colorado about front end wobble under hard braking, mostly on descents. They told me the mechanic could not duplicate the problem during his test ride. Well of course I go back to Colorado and naturally the wobble is back. It turns out the calipers are warped as I suggested to them. Ducati has agreed to warrant the repair, and now will update the rear brake? Thoughts!!!


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Maybe I don't have enough miles on my PP, but in 30+ yrs of riding, I have never been able to warp any calipers. I wonder if you are late braking and hitting them hard instead of on slow and off slow for the street?
I hit them hard on the track and still have not had any problems. I am sure people have warped calipers, just not me. Little old I guess and too slow?
 

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Maybe I don't have enough miles on my PP, but in 30+ yrs of riding, I have never been able to warp any calipers. I wonder if you are late braking and hitting them hard instead of on slow and off slow for the street?
I hit them hard on the track and still have not had any problems. I am sure people have warped calipers, just not me. Little old I guess and too slow?
I think he probably means the brake ROTORS are warped, not the calipers.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
YES, I meant the rotors! Oops, sorry.


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My rotors warped twice and were replaced under warranty. I do a lot of riding, both city and country, and plenty in the rain. Who knows what causes it - my last bikes never did it and my riding style hasn't changed. Anyway, they warped again and Ducati Aus said "no more rotor replacements" so I had to get them machined. Probably turn out to be a better solution anyway, as once the metal has "settled" into its warped state, one or two machinings and it should stay true. Fingers crossed.
 

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Hmmm, good to know. I was going to take the multi in for front brake noise this coming week. This bike has way too many issues. I'm seriously starting to think about unloading it...
 

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I have the same front end wobble under harm braking.

I suggested warped rotors to my dealer, but they said the roots were fine.

Maybe I'll try a different dealer.
 

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This is a common problem, however it isn't warped rotors, but pad material stuck to the rotors. I have had the issue twice, first time they replaced the Rotors, but the same problem returned. To fix clean the rotors with scotch pad , and change brake pads to a different make !
 

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Yep

Different pads and a good cleaning. This bike makes me smile every time I ride it even with the " problems". Had more issues with ktms and bmws
 

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Different pads and a good cleaning. This bike makes me smile every time I ride it even with the " problems". Had more issues with ktms and bmws
Yes Ebrew but what you forgot to mention is that you have "Brake Tech" iron rotors on the front and a "Brake Tech" stainless on the rear, yes? :))

..and I'll be doing the same soon ;-)
 

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Yes.I do

Most people don't want to spend money to do that. But sanding the rotors do fix the build up. And ferado pads make a difference as well.
Yes Ebrew but what you forgot to mention is that you have "Brake Tech" iron rotors on the front and a "Brake Tech" stainless on the rear, yes? :))

..and I'll be doing the same soon ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So then, if the pad material was sticking to the rotors, they would have seen it. The service mgr. said they were out of spec and actually told me the runout measurement. Going with new manufacturer's rotors when it happens again in a couple of years.


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So then, if the pad material was sticking to the rotors, they would have seen it. The service mgr. said they were out of spec and actually told me the runout measurement. Going with new manufacturer's rotors when it happens again in a couple of years.


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You will not likely see it, remember these are floating disc's so technically warping should be handled in this manner. The pulsing sensation is due to the different fiction. Dealers will replace disc's it costs them nothing , in fact they can make money out of warranty work. The issue is finding the real cause so when you are paying you don't waste money.
 

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Different pads and a good cleaning. This bike makes me smile every time I ride it even with the " problems". Had more issues with ktms and bmws
I've got to agree, but no problems my KTM's and just brake issues with my Multi but a ton of problems with the BMW's I've had in the past.

What grade of Scotch pads are you guys using to clean off the discs?
 

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This is a common problem, however it isn't warped rotors, but pad material stuck to the rotors...
Mine was measurable runout. My rotors were completely clean/free of pad material. Hard braking from around 150kmh saw the bike nearly vibrate its arse right off the road!

I am sure some people have pad material problems, others have warped rotors, and still others probably have both. I would like to try some different pads next time I get the rotors machined. Any recommendations that WON'T destroy the rotors too quick?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Machining, or grinding the rotors, are finite. Maybe you will get to re-surface them twice at best before they are too thin. Once thinned out the heat will warp them in fast order. New calipers are the way in my opinion. Whose are the question.


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Mine was measurable runout. My rotors were completely clean/free of pad material. Hard braking from around 150kmh saw the bike nearly vibrate its arse right off the road!
Just wondering how you would check run out. I would think as the rotors are floating that you would need to remove rotors from the bike ? If you are going to grind the rotors to fix the "runout" I would think you'd need to know what that was to make a grind decision.

If the run out was measured on the bike , I believe this could be disc position , as the disc is floating and you could have many thou difference just in the float?

I have no idea if the above adds anything and am just looking fo logic .
 

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You measure runout with a fixed dial gauge. Floating rotors do not make a difference to this unless the carrier is warped or the mounting buttons are clagged up. The dial gauge is set up to measure what the pads feel. Not rocket science.

I came to my MTS from a KTM (excellent brakes with no problems) and 3 triumph Tigers in a row before that. I had MAJOR problems with all three bikes with brake rotors made of cheese (Thailand made Sun brand all of them) that wore out in 12K KM and warped front disks. The theory at the time was the warping was hard use heating up the rotors and then sudden cooling causing differential contraction and warping. To translate - using your brakes a bit in the rain.

I ended up replacing the whole brakes on my last 955 tiger with French made Beringer rotors and 4 spot calipers. Excellent and no problems in 50K KM.

One of the reasons I went with the MTS1200 was that I was sick of replacing inferior components like brakes and dampers. I thought I was buying a bike with the good gear fitted already.
I expect more from Brembo. Delusional?
Hmmmm.....
 

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You measure runout with a fixed dial gauge. Floating rotors do not make a difference to this unless the carrier is warped or the mounting buttons are clagged up. The dial gauge is set up to measure what the pads feel. Not rocket science.

I came to my MTS from a KTM (excellent brakes with no problems) and 3 triumph Tigers in a row before that. I had MAJOR problems with all three bikes with brake rotors made of cheese (Thailand made Sun brand all of them) that wore out in 12K KM and warped front disks. The theory at the time was the warping was hard use heating up the rotors and then sudden cooling causing differential contraction and warping. To translate - using your brakes a bit in the rain.

I ended up replacing the whole brakes on my last 955 tiger with French made Beringer rotors and 4 spot calipers. Excellent and no problems in 50K KM.

One of the reasons I went with the MTS1200 was that I was sick of replacing inferior components like brakes and dampers. I thought I was buying a bike with the good gear fitted already.
I expect more from Brembo. Delusional?
Hmmmm.....
...and unfortunately Tim, like everything these days, whether Brembo or whatever component that's going to market on a bike at a price; something's got to give. That's the finite quality of these products today despite the name on the tin.
Even Ohlins I'm afraid now that all these have become commonplace.
What you pay for off the showroom floor with the lush name stickers is, Johnny Walker Red. What you need/ want/ desire is Johnny Walker Blue label...
..and for that Sir, that'll be xxxxxxxx$$$$$$$$$ extra.
I suspect you Tim, like me, well, we're chaps of a certain age where the thought of Ohlins and Brembo was the Holy Grail...now...pedestrian.
Next shelf up Sir is what you want....
 
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