Speedymoto. The bolts seem to be of superior quality to the Cyclecat units I see on most 749/999 SBK's. Be sure you have an experienced installer do the cutting. They look like crap if they're not located centrally in the hole and/or if the hole is cut too big. A hole saw 1/4" larger diameter than bobbin should leave a consistent 1/8" gap around perimeter which is nearly invisible. Take care
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Frame sliders?
Hello all,
I am new here. I tried the search function but did not get a good result. I am looking to purchase some frame sliders for my 04 999. What is the best and where can I get it for this bike. Thanks in advance.
-Jeff
I am new here. I tried the search function but did not get a good result. I am looking to purchase some frame sliders for my 04 999. What is the best and where can I get it for this bike. Thanks in advance.
-Jeff
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Speedymoto makes one that fits under the body work as well as through the body work like Cycle Cat. The Cycle Cat use aluminum couplings that are designed to break off under heavy load to save your frame. The Speedymoto uses steel couplings that will not break.
We stock both and have had good reveiws on both systems.
We stock both and have had good reveiws on both systems.
How much would it be to have these installed?
I don't think I'd pay someone to do it... If you have a torque wrench, it takes under 10 minutes. Remove plastic, remove evap canister and plug the vent line, assemble one side of the slider on the mount bolt, push the old mount bolt through with the new one, screw on the other side, torque it down, plastic on and...VOILA'!!!TRPL_9 said:How much would it be to have these installed?
Do you think it would be possible to fit the Speedymoto under body frame sliders with the Cycle Cat setup? I like the Cycle Cat Setup for the track, but I want to have the Speedymoto under body mount for my street fairings.moto said:Speedymoto makes one that fits under the body work as well as through the body work like Cycle Cat. The Cycle Cat use aluminum couplings that are designed to break off under heavy load to save your frame. The Speedymoto uses steel couplings that will not break.
We stock both and have had good reveiws on both systems.
Thanks!
The engine bolt design that Speedymoto and Cycle Cat are different and are not interchangeable.
I have some short Cycle Cat sliders that we can include in the kit if you want to fit it under the body (I'm not sure if they will fit with out trimming)--but it is best to take the long Cycle Cat and cut them down so it fits right up against the inside of the fairing. I would then get a second set of Delrin sliders for the track to run through the fairings. You would leave the Cycle Cat engine mount alone and just screw on and off the slider portion for the fairings that you use.
I have some short Cycle Cat sliders that we can include in the kit if you want to fit it under the body (I'm not sure if they will fit with out trimming)--but it is best to take the long Cycle Cat and cut them down so it fits right up against the inside of the fairing. I would then get a second set of Delrin sliders for the track to run through the fairings. You would leave the Cycle Cat engine mount alone and just screw on and off the slider portion for the fairings that you use.
What is exact point of under-fairing sliders? That Cr-Mo trellis frame is so friggin strong, if it were to be bent, there'd be nothing on the bike worth saving anyway. That's one of the greatest benefits of the Ducati frame; it's lower volume than the extruded alloy alternatives, offers a controlled level of flex to enhance ride, feel and stability plus it holds up to crashes MUCH better than aluminum.
The sliders can save BIG $$$ on a simple low side either on street or track. Last time I checked, 749/999 fairings run $2500 USD per side!!! The CF 999R fairings would require an equityline on your home for most of us to replace. I'd put on the Speedymoto's because the trellis frame is still WAAAAY stronger and stiffer than the steel bolts that attach bobbin to frame and the bobbin protrudes less than 1" from fairing which will hopefully save fairing in a low side but not appear overly obtrusive. In fact they are nearly invisible on the black sbk's. Take care.
The sliders can save BIG $$$ on a simple low side either on street or track. Last time I checked, 749/999 fairings run $2500 USD per side!!! The CF 999R fairings would require an equityline on your home for most of us to replace. I'd put on the Speedymoto's because the trellis frame is still WAAAAY stronger and stiffer than the steel bolts that attach bobbin to frame and the bobbin protrudes less than 1" from fairing which will hopefully save fairing in a low side but not appear overly obtrusive. In fact they are nearly invisible on the black sbk's. Take care.
Maybe for guys who don't want to drill holes in body work, but still have a worst case contingeny to save all the other stuff that get's wiped out on a duc when it slides down a road/track- waterpump, battery, clutch parts, etc. etc. Possibly not quite as protective as thru-body style, but chances are you gonna get some body work damage regardless of thru or under style. Catch-22, but I'd say some slider is better than no slider, which leads to the second issue which is that a slider should stay intact during a crash. I've seen frame sockets get torn out by a slider breaking off. Not the hot ticket for saving the frame, and then everything else which get's hosed when the slider is no longer.What is exact point of under-fairing sliders?
Yes on sliders
I've crashed twice in a year with sliders on. The first instance was on my 916 at the track. I took the precaution of installing a set of Cycle Cats and boring holes through a set of rashed fairings I picked up. No way I was going to take a chance at trashing my stock 95 916 decals. Its a good thing I did because sure enough, I lowsided. The sliders burned down as they are designed to do as the bike slid accross the track. It wound up in the dirt and I thought for for sure the bike was going to have extensive damage. But, as luck would have it, the only thing damaged was the fairing, peg and slightly on the grip. Otherwise the bike was untouched, including the nose and tail! Was I happy. I did more damage to the bike when it fell over later in the year. The second crash was with my 600RR on the street. I installed sliders on it too but even gorilla sliders wouldn't have saved the bike. The bike was reduced to a hunk of junk and I do recall as I was lying there waiting for the helicopter, the left side slider was gone. I never had the chance to see the bike again to inspect it more thoroughly. The Honda sliders were funky, bolted to the frame and not to a supplied HD frame bolt. I think in the case of the Honda crash, I may have experienced one of the downsides to sliders. That is, once the slide is interrupted by the soft shoulder or dirt, the sliders may catch and flip the bike. The initial flip creates some big time energy and the bike acts like a sling shot. I think in my case it catapulted me with it. The bike wound up 20' beyond me against a rock wall, the instrument panel was next to my head. The front tire was pushed against the headers and the rear tail destroyed, this told me the bike flipped end over end. Despite this, I strongly believe in sliders as a means of preventing more serious and costly damage to your bike in instances of low sides or the front wheel tucking in.
Take BigMac's advice on installation seriously if you are going to bore through your fairings (I wouldn't-I'd get some rashed ones for the track). I've seen the holes off center and they look like crap. Actually its easy to do; I've done it twice perfectly and I'm a space cadet when it comes to things mechanical. I used body clay the first time and a centering pencil in the frame hole. The second time I used a laser pointer resting level to the frame hole with fairings off. Put the fairings back on and now you have your laser mark. Use a hole saw and go for it. The bike must be supported by a Pit Bull. You can even get a little fancy by lining the hole with some flexible black door edge guard.
I've crashed twice in a year with sliders on. The first instance was on my 916 at the track. I took the precaution of installing a set of Cycle Cats and boring holes through a set of rashed fairings I picked up. No way I was going to take a chance at trashing my stock 95 916 decals. Its a good thing I did because sure enough, I lowsided. The sliders burned down as they are designed to do as the bike slid accross the track. It wound up in the dirt and I thought for for sure the bike was going to have extensive damage. But, as luck would have it, the only thing damaged was the fairing, peg and slightly on the grip. Otherwise the bike was untouched, including the nose and tail! Was I happy. I did more damage to the bike when it fell over later in the year. The second crash was with my 600RR on the street. I installed sliders on it too but even gorilla sliders wouldn't have saved the bike. The bike was reduced to a hunk of junk and I do recall as I was lying there waiting for the helicopter, the left side slider was gone. I never had the chance to see the bike again to inspect it more thoroughly. The Honda sliders were funky, bolted to the frame and not to a supplied HD frame bolt. I think in the case of the Honda crash, I may have experienced one of the downsides to sliders. That is, once the slide is interrupted by the soft shoulder or dirt, the sliders may catch and flip the bike. The initial flip creates some big time energy and the bike acts like a sling shot. I think in my case it catapulted me with it. The bike wound up 20' beyond me against a rock wall, the instrument panel was next to my head. The front tire was pushed against the headers and the rear tail destroyed, this told me the bike flipped end over end. Despite this, I strongly believe in sliders as a means of preventing more serious and costly damage to your bike in instances of low sides or the front wheel tucking in.
Take BigMac's advice on installation seriously if you are going to bore through your fairings (I wouldn't-I'd get some rashed ones for the track). I've seen the holes off center and they look like crap. Actually its easy to do; I've done it twice perfectly and I'm a space cadet when it comes to things mechanical. I used body clay the first time and a centering pencil in the frame hole. The second time I used a laser pointer resting level to the frame hole with fairings off. Put the fairings back on and now you have your laser mark. Use a hole saw and go for it. The bike must be supported by a Pit Bull. You can even get a little fancy by lining the hole with some flexible black door edge guard.
To Johns point the sliders can lock up with something and flip the bike. That is what happened when i lowsided my R6 at beaver run. The slider was mangeled, but the frame was OK. I do feel the sliders saved the bike from further damage like the clutch so I put new ones on.
If you are going to install:
- take the panel off
-put in just the bolt for the slider stick out far enough that it just doesn't quite touch the panel you took off.
-put silly putty on the back of the panel near the future hole location
-put the panel on and gently press.
- take the panel off and drill a 1/8 inch hole from the back to the front in the middle of the indentation in the silly putty. (you are marking where to drill from the other side)
-now put blue painters tape over the glossy side of the plastics
- clamp a piece of wood to the back somehow so you have something to cut into other than the plastic. The more curved the location the more important this is. Otherwise you will go half through and slide a bit making an oval
- take a 2" hole saw (check the size fit first for your sliders ) and drill from the glossy side back (trust me this is the direction you want to cut!)
- file the back a bit to get the melted/jaggy pieces off.
-put on panel and enjoy!
I have done 3 sets of body work like this - (1) street plasticks (2) race bodies - all of them perfect except for the first hole cut where I didn't use the wooden backboard.
If you are going to install:
- take the panel off
-put in just the bolt for the slider stick out far enough that it just doesn't quite touch the panel you took off.
-put silly putty on the back of the panel near the future hole location
-put the panel on and gently press.
- take the panel off and drill a 1/8 inch hole from the back to the front in the middle of the indentation in the silly putty. (you are marking where to drill from the other side)
-now put blue painters tape over the glossy side of the plastics
- clamp a piece of wood to the back somehow so you have something to cut into other than the plastic. The more curved the location the more important this is. Otherwise you will go half through and slide a bit making an oval
- take a 2" hole saw (check the size fit first for your sliders
) and drill from the glossy side back (trust me this is the direction you want to cut!)- file the back a bit to get the melted/jaggy pieces off.
-put on panel and enjoy!
I have done 3 sets of body work like this - (1) street plasticks (2) race bodies - all of them perfect except for the first hole cut where I didn't use the wooden backboard.
Sliders
I have the SpeedyMoto (fairing hole) frame sliders. I absolutely love them. I will post pics as soon as I can.
I have the SpeedyMoto (fairing hole) frame sliders. I absolutely love them. I will post pics as soon as I can.
Sliders
maybe check out the R&G frame sliders here's the link
http://www.rg-racing.com/showProduc...ectors/749_999_Crash_Protectors/CP0118BL.aspx
maybe check out the R&G frame sliders here's the link
http://www.rg-racing.com/showProduc...ectors/749_999_Crash_Protectors/CP0118BL.aspx
I swear by my Cyclecat´s..
I wouldn´t buy anything else. If you want them to fit under the bodywork, just cut them down.
//amullo
I wouldn´t buy anything else. If you want them to fit under the bodywork, just cut them down.
//amullo
JMO, but if you go down with sliders that stick out beyond the fairing it is not going to eliminate fairing damage, and you still take the chance of catching the slider. I went with the speedymoto under-fairing because you don't need to cut the fairing, you still get great protection and no chance of the slider catching.
I just might go with the speedymoto ones. I would hate to cut my fairing up but will see.
Sweet!Bella749 said:I can attest to the quality of the Speedymoto sliders, very good setup... here's a couple pics
What is that bottle for in the second pic.
coolant overflow. I have CF runners, and the stock tank is part of the runner.TRPL_9 said:Sweet!
What is that bottle for in the second pic.
Hey Matt did you do the cf bet cover with the air intake, what do you think of that?Bella749 said:coolant overflow. I have CF runners, and the stock tank is part of the runner.
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
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