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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Workshop manual says that the height difference should be within 0,1 mm measured from the bottom yoke. It seems almost impossible to measure with that accuracy. Any idea how to do it?

It should be quite easy to measure from the top of the top yoke, but that is not the same as it can be a little off from level. Bike is Multistrada -2015.
 

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Don't worry about the tops of the forks, the bottoms are the important part. Insert the axle without the wheel and if you can turn it easily, they are right. If not, very slightly move one leg up or down until you can.
 

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Don't worry about the tops of the forks, the bottoms are the important part. Insert the axle without the wheel and if you can turn it easily, they are right. If not, very slightly move one leg up or down until you can.
I do not agree. The forks should be aligned so that they are at equal hight. If the axle can turn easily does not matter. Fork hight explained by Traxxion Dynamics, look at 9 minutes out in the video.

 

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I do not agree. The forks should be aligned so that they are at equal hight. If the axle can turn easily does not matter. Fork hight explained by Traxxion Dynamics, look at 9 minutes out in the video.
First off, THANK YOU for posting that video... very informative. I've done a fair bit of reading on the subject and have rebuilt/upgraded (cheaply) forks and even after all this I feel like I blundering in the dark most times when adjusting my suspension.

If the two forks are identical in length - and they should be when uncompressed - then by adjusting the heights so that the axle will slide in means, effectively, that they are aligned. If you then measure the amount exposed above the triple I think you'll find that unless there is an issue with fork assembly... something like an improperly seated seal... then this measurement should be the same side to side.

Any way you set them up which yields an axle which will not slide easily through both forks is going to give you potential problems... starting with getting the wheel installed!
 

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well, really, you'd fit the forks without springs, tighten one leg at the position you want then fit the wheel and let the front drop onto the wheel so it's bottomed and then slide the loose outer around so that it is also bottomed (with a bit of load on top of it to make sure), then tighten the pinch screws. that's the only way they're going to bottom at the same time.

which no one does. fitting them so they bottom at the same time is an even more indetirminant argument than just measuring or fitting the axle imo.

ime the length of a showa adj is dependant on how many clicks of rebound it has available, and making them exactly the same is quite hard. so they will vary in length a touch.

others with caps that screw down hard on the cartridge rods will probably also vary a little just with production tolerance, so i really doubt that by any external measurement method you'd have them bottom at the same time.

also, usually you're measuring to an unmachined surface on a production triple as well, so you will get a small variation there too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you for the help. Axel is sliding well without the wheel. In my case the top yoke seems to be very level as as the tops are very equal there. So that makes my life a little easier in the future. It might be good to take the springs out and measure then but the forks are brand new so I don't like to take them apart yet. So now it is time to test :).
 

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It's possible that the spacer is split where it is welded. This happened to me, although I don't recall if it affected the preload that much. Maybe.

 
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