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Discussion Starter #1
The title sums it up, but I am interested to see if anyone has successfully bypassed the stock fog light switch on the left hand controller to activate aftermarket fog lights.
It would be nice to use the stock switch rather than attaching the janky ones that typically come with these aftermarket kits.

Thanks in advance.
 

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I can't say for sure, but I believe you need to get your dealer to enable the switch using the service computer to have any chance of it working, but I'm sure someone else will be able to say for sure.
 
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The Autoswitch works very well -I have one on one of my bikes just for my driving lights
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Is it wired to the factory fog light switch?
From what I can deduce from a bit of research, the 'autoswitch' is a parasitic switch that triggers from a source (high beam, brake light) and opens a secondary line (presumably the trigger for a relay that will turn on your accessory lights, backoffs, etc.
Example: Instead of feeding the relay from the hotwire of your high beams to turn on your accessory lights (always on when on scenario), the 'autoswitch' requires user input at the headlight switch (long press, double tap, etc) to trigger a relay to close and therefore turn on the accessory lights.
To answer your question, which is what I was also looking to determine, MAYBE?
If a Ducati dealer has to activate the accessory (fog) light wiring using a computer, I suspect there is no voltage in the line PAST some control unit buried deep in the bowels (i.e. Not at the terminal connector for stock fog lights).
However, IF there is voltage in the hotwire AFTER the stock fog light switch (most likely) THEN you could tap in to this wiring with the autoswitch to trigger a relay to activate aftermarket lights. As long as the dealer required activation of the stock connection is not done (by default) this parasitic connection should not have any effect on the electronics (it won't know anything is up).
I am going to probe test this wiring to see what I can see and go from there.
 

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From what I can deduce from a bit of research, the 'autoswitch' is a parasitic switch that triggers from a source (high beam, brake light) and opens a secondary line (presumably the trigger for a relay that will turn on your accessory lights, backoffs, etc.
Example: Instead of feeding the relay from the hotwire of your high beams to turn on your accessory lights (always on when on scenario), the 'autoswitch' requires user input at the headlight switch (long press, double tap, etc) to trigger a relay to close and therefore turn on the accessory lights.
To answer your question, which is what I was also looking to determine, MAYBE?
If a Ducati dealer has to activate the accessory (fog) light wiring using a computer, I suspect there is no voltage in the line PAST some control unit buried deep in the bowels (i.e. Not at the terminal connector for stock fog lights).
However, IF there is voltage in the hotwire AFTER the stock fog light switch (most likely) THEN you could tap in to this wiring with the autoswitch to trigger a relay to activate aftermarket lights. As long as the dealer required activation of the stock connection is not done (by default) this parasitic connection should not have any effect on the electronics (it won't know anything is up).
I am going to probe test this wiring to see what I can see and go from there.

Please definitely post your findings when you get around to it! I'd love to run bajadesigns lights using the factory light switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update:
After noticing the Fog/Accessory Plug did NOT have the stock cap in place, I contacted the dealer I purchased my bike from a few months ago (it was his bike this summer...one of many) and he confirmed he had activated the switch and used stock fog lights on it, so my bike was essentially plug and play ready...which negates my initial dilemma.
I still intend to install aftermarket lights (Diode Dynamics are on the top of the list as of now), so I tested the 3 wire harness to see how to do the installation correctly.

Reference the pictures:
With the Ground (Black) probe on the LEFT and the Positive (Red) probe on the RIGHT (referencing the connector as you see in the photo...release tab on Top), you get Constant voltage on Key-On (Regardless of Fog Light On/Off position.)

With the Ground on the LEFT (same position, obviously) and the Positive in the MIDDLE, you get Constant Voltage ONLY with Key-On AND the Fog Light Switch Activated.

If you are going to use this harness to control aftermarket aux lights and utilize the Fog Light Switch, you are going to power the Relay using the RHS Constant Positive (Key-On State) and use the Middle Positive (Fog Switch On State) as the Trigger for your relay. The aux lights can be grounded to the Negative (LHS) and the Positive will come out of the Relay, post Trigger.

I am not sure how the computer is reading the current to know the aux lights are installed and therefore stop the Fog Light Indicator on the Dash to stop blinking (current state when the switch is activated with no lights installed), but I suspect the current draw will be the trigger for this to happen.

Once I get lights and run a test install I will follow up with those results.

As for triggering aux lights from this switch without it being activated...I guess I am not going to be able to determine that outcome.
 

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So you didn't have a check engine light when it was activated all this time? That's good to know. I'll have to look for that plug to check before taking to dealer to activate (i need them to activate my heat grips anyway). That plug is just below the front of tank?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So you didn't have a check engine light when it was activated all this time? That's good to know. I'll have to look for that plug to check before taking to dealer to activate (i need them to activate my heat grips anyway). That plug is just below the front of tank?
I do not think the check engine light would activate just because the lights are 'activated' but not connected.
The plug is difficult to access...Easy to get to with one hand but it is tied at the neck so you can not pull it out to a reasonable position to work with. Turn your wheel hard right and look down and back LHS from above. Good luck!
 

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Update:
After noticing the Fog/Accessory Plug did NOT have the stock cap in place, I contacted the dealer I purchased my bike from a few months ago (it was his bike this summer...one of many) and he confirmed he had activated the switch and used stock fog lights on it, so my bike was essentially plug and play ready...which negates my initial dilemma.
I still intend to install aftermarket lights (Diode Dynamics are on the top of the list as of now), so I tested the 3 wire harness to see how to do the installation correctly.

Reference the pictures:
With the Ground (Black) probe on the LEFT and the Positive (Red) probe on the RIGHT (referencing the connector as you see in the photo...release tab on Top), you get Constant voltage on Key-On (Regardless of Fog Light On/Off position.)

With the Ground on the LEFT (same position, obviously) and the Positive in the MIDDLE, you get Constant Voltage ONLY with Key-On AND the Fog Light Switch Activated.

If you are going to use this harness to control aftermarket aux lights and utilize the Fog Light Switch, you are going to power the Relay using the RHS Constant Positive (Key-On State) and use the Middle Positive (Fog Switch On State) as the Trigger for your relay. The aux lights can be grounded to the Negative (LHS) and the Positive will come out of the Relay, post Trigger.

I am not sure how the computer is reading the current to know the aux lights are installed and therefore stop the Fog Light Indicator on the Dash to stop blinking (current state when the switch is activated with no lights installed), but I suspect the current draw will be the trigger for this to happen.

Once I get lights and run a test install I will follow up with those results.

As for triggering aux lights from this switch without it being activated...I guess I am not going to be able to determine that outcome.
 

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This is some of the most useful info I've been able to find on this topic. Thank you!
One more thing I am still trying to find out is whether the Ducati fog lights turn off when the highbeam is turned on. I want to install aftermarket driving lights and I'm trying to figure out a way to have them run at low brightness during the day but switch to 100% when the bike's highbeam is turned on. So I need some sort of trigger from the highbeam. Does anyone know if can be accomplished using the built-in fog light accessory plug? If that's not an option, is there a solution out there?
Denali told me they were planning a CanSmart interface for Ducati, but Hex (the ones who actually manufacture it) said it's not even on their radar. Clearwater had a CanOpener for Ducati but informed me that they pulled it off the market because it didn't work with the Ducati LED headlights.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
This is some of the most useful info I've been able to find on this topic. Thank you!
One more thing I am still trying to find out is whether the Ducati fog lights turn off when the highbeam is turned on. I want to install aftermarket driving lights and I'm trying to figure out a way to have them run at low brightness during the day but switch to 100% when the bike's highbeam is turned on. So I need some sort of trigger from the highbeam. Does anyone know if can be accomplished using the built-in fog light accessory plug? If that's not an option, is there a solution out there?
Denali told me they were planning a CanSmart interface for Ducati, but Hex (the ones who actually manufacture it) said it's not even on their radar. Clearwater had a CanOpener for Ducati but informed me that they pulled it off the market because it didn't work with the Ducati LED headlights.
1: You are welcome...I always find it most productive when working on a project to collaborate with others who are interested in the same topic.

2: Good question on the stock fog harness power with high beam switched on...I will check that this weekend and follow up.

3: Re: High beam trigger for DRL intensity... I believe this is possible, but you probably want to avoid using a secondary switch to activate/deactivate for ease of use/safety. If you have oncoming traffic and need to thumb your high beams on/off, you probably don't want to do this on two switches at the same time.
Denali has a wiring harness to handle this, but it uses a 3-way switch (Off/High/Low):

My POV, why do you want DRL to run at low intensity during the day and only run at full when high beams are on (presumably at night)? You are not going to blind oncoming traffic during the day because our eyes are adjusted to daylight and far less affected by bright light vs at night. I always ride with high beams AND led aux lights on my prior bike for years during the day and never get flashed. I do this to bring as much attention to my bike as possible for safety reasons. The only reason to dim them would be for night use with oncoming traffic, so this can be tied directly to your high beam switch. Dim vs Off is the challenge there. Off is easy as you have your High beam act as the relay trigger switch for the aux lights. Dimming when off would require a controller...possibly utilizing the Denali harness and bypass the physical switch in some way.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
This is some of the most useful info I've been able to find on this topic. Thank you!
One more thing I am still trying to find out is whether the Ducati fog lights turn off when the highbeam is turned on. I want to install aftermarket driving lights and I'm trying to figure out a way to have them run at low brightness during the day but switch to 100% when the bike's highbeam is turned on. So I need some sort of trigger from the highbeam. Does anyone know if can be accomplished using the built-in fog light accessory plug? If that's not an option, is there a solution out there?
Denali told me they were planning a CanSmart interface for Ducati, but Hex (the ones who actually manufacture it) said it's not even on their radar. Clearwater had a CanOpener for Ducati but informed me that they pulled it off the market because it didn't work with the Ducati LED headlights.
1: You are welcome...I always find it most productive when working on a project to collaborate with others who are interested in the same topic.

2: Good question on the stock fog harness power with high beam switched on...I will check that this weekend and follow up.

3: Re: High beam trigger for DRL intensity... I believe this is possible, but you probably want to avoid using a secondary switch to activate/deactivate for ease of use/safety. If you have oncoming traffic and need to thumb your high beams on/off, you probably don't want to do this on two switches at the same time.
Denali has a wiring harness to handle this, but it uses a 3-way switch (Off/High/Low):

My POV, why do you want DRL to run at low intensity during the day and only run at full when high beams are on (presumably at night)? You are not going to blind oncoming traffic during the day because our eyes are adjusted to daylight and far less affected by bright light vs at night. I always ride with high beams AND led aux lights on my prior bike for years during the day and never get flashed. I do this to bring as much attention to my bike as possible for safety reasons. The only reason to dim them would be for night use with oncoming traffic, so this can be tied directly to your high beam switch. Dim vs Off is the challenge there. Off is easy as you have your High beam act as the relay trigger switch for the aux lights. Dimming when off would require a controller...possibly utilizing the Denali harness and bypass the physical switch in some way.
 

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1: You are welcome...I always find it most productive when working on a project to collaborate with others who are interested in the same topic.

2: Good question on the stock fog harness power with high beam switched on...I will check that this weekend and follow up.

3: Re: High beam trigger for DRL intensity... I believe this is possible, but you probably want to avoid using a secondary switch to activate/deactivate for ease of use/safety. If you have oncoming traffic and need to thumb your high beams on/off, you probably don't want to do this on two switches at the same time.
Denali has a wiring harness to handle this, but it uses a 3-way switch (Off/High/Low):

My POV, why do you want DRL to run at low intensity during the day and only run at full when high beams are on (presumably at night)? You are not going to blind oncoming traffic during the day because our eyes are adjusted to daylight and far less affected by bright light vs at night. I always ride with high beams AND led aux lights on my prior bike for years during the day and never get flashed. I do this to bring as much attention to my bike as possible for safety reasons. The only reason to dim them would be for night use with oncoming traffic, so this can be tied directly to your high beam switch. Dim vs Off is the challenge there. Off is easy as you have your High beam act as the relay trigger switch for the aux lights. Dimming when off would require a controller...possibly utilizing the Denali harness and bypass the physical switch in some way.
Thank you for the reply. All good points/questions. My original post was not clear - apologies. I'm interested in the Denali D4s which are claimed to be incredibly bright, even during the day - but I agree with you - it's daytime and we want to be seen. Regarding dimming, the Multi's LED headlight is very good, but I want to use the D4 lights with my headlight low-beam (high-beam off) to better fill in the road ahead and to the sides and still serve as effective DRLs, but without blinding oncoming traffic. I mostly ride backroads with lots of wildlife and I want the lights to switch to 100% when I turn on my high-beam. I understand it's common to run dimmable lights like the D4 at 10-40% (depending on the lights) with the low-beam at 100% with the high-beam. I definitely do not want to deal with two switches because, as you pointed out, that's not safe nor practical. Denali and Clearwater have nice solutions but seem non-committal on a Ducati CANBus interface, which is disappointing. I even contacted XBB and they too have a CANBus solution for BMW, but with no plans for Ducati. I even began to research photoelectric sensors to see if there was a way to sense the high-beam and trigger the D4 to 100%, but it didn't look like a clean nor reliable way to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thank you for the reply. All good points/questions.
That all makes perfect sense. I originally purchased an Autoswitch, which is a parasitic trigger and can be used to act as a relay trigger when the selected switch is long pressed or double pressed, instead of just on/off. I believe these are typically wired to turn cancel switches (as these are essentially a 'free switch' when not using the turn signals) to activate the relay trigger and therefore turn on/off aux lights. I suspect you could instead use the high beam wire and activate the Autoswitch with the 'flash' feature (Thumb Down to blip the high beams...even if they are activated). It may be possible to integrate the Autoswitch to bypass the 3 way Denali switch (OFF/LOW/HIGH) to toggle between Low and High with the blip feature when the high beams are ON and therefore the D4s are ON. i.e. High Beam On activates D4s (High State). High Beam Blipper triggers Autoswitch to toggle BT Low and High setting instead of the Denali Switch doing it. I would think that is possible...not entirely easy, but possible. All good stuff...
 

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That all makes perfect sense. I originally purchased an Autoswitch, which is a parasitic trigger and can be used to act as a relay trigger when the selected switch is long pressed or double pressed, instead of just on/off. I believe these are typically wired to turn cancel switches (as these are essentially a 'free switch' when not using the turn signals) to activate the relay trigger and therefore turn on/off aux lights. I suspect you could instead use the high beam wire and activate the Autoswitch with the 'flash' feature (Thumb Down to blip the high beams...even if they are activated). It may be possible to integrate the Autoswitch to bypass the 3 way Denali switch (OFF/LOW/HIGH) to toggle between Low and High with the blip feature when the high beams are ON and therefore the D4s are ON. i.e. High Beam On activates D4s (High State). High Beam Blipper triggers Autoswitch to toggle BT Low and High setting instead of the Denali Switch doing it. I would think that is possible...not entirely easy, but possible. All good stuff...
Divergenti, thanks again for the info. I wrote to Autoswitch to see what they say about the MS 1260. The device is cheap enough to just buy it and give it a shot, but I thought it's worth a quick note to see what they say. I will reply back with whatever I learn. I've see others looking for the same solution. Regards
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Divergenti, thanks again for the info. I wrote to Autoswitch to see what they say about the MS 1260. The device is cheap enough to just buy it and give it a shot, but I thought it's worth a quick note to see what they say. I will reply back with whatever I learn. I've see others looking for the same solution. Regards
You are certainly welcome...be sure to let me know what they say. It would be nice to know if the CanBUS will be affected in any way.
 
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