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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry, I know this has been asked and answered to DEATH, but I keep reading conflicting information. I have a Termi 2-1-2 slipon, and currently installing a LV cat elim. I'm trying to figure out how to deal with the flapper valve on the midpipe. Some say just pull the cables (I have a DP full exhaust ECU as well), some say drill it out and have a muffler shop weld a patch, some say just unplug it. What is the preferred method of bypassing it? My least favorite choice is to cut and weld btw... Thanks.
 

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I vote for installing a set of Zard collectors. I did that on mine and then pulled the servo out as well.
I runs great. And the sound is really good as well.

-KK
 

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I believe the 308b ECU is programmable to disable the flapper and 02 sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I believe the 308b ECU is programmable to disable the flapper and 02 sensor.
Sure, I understand that much, but I'm curious about the physical disabling of the flapper. There are a few different ways of turning it of. I think the programming of the ecu only allows for the engine light to stay off.
 

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Pulling the cables and making some stops on the servo motor work well. The valve stays spring loaded open once the cables are pulled. I drilled and tapped holes for a couple of small bolts in the servo motor to act as stops. The servo will cycle, hit the stops, and be happy, no CEL lights.
 

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Did you fab up that heat shield? Do tell.
I did, I made it out of aluminum. I could not stand the one that comes with the Zard's. I ended up picking up a carbon fiber one for it though.

-KK
 

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I found it on e-bay, it came out of Italy. It is made for the Zard collectors.

-KK
 

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Update: So here's what I ended up doing, and it works great, is really easy, and doesn't cause any engine issues. Simply unplug the electrical connection right above the servo. Then wrap with electrical tape and call it a day. :abduct:
 

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I did, I made it out of aluminum. I could not stand the one that comes with the Zard's. I ended up picking up a carbon fiber one for it though.

-KK
Yeah, the Zard shield looks horrible. Now that you have a carbon one, wanna ship me your aluminium one? :D
 

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^ I'll trade you two trade you two Zard stickers for the alum shield :)
 

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Update: So here's what I ended up doing, and it works great, is really easy, and doesn't cause any engine issues. Simply unplug the electrical connection right above the servo. Then wrap with electrical tape and call it a day. :abduct:
Part #96757907B is the electrical connection dead end plug to use instead of tape, came with the Termi pipes . Shouldn't be that expensive and shouldn't take tooo long to come from Italy :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Part #96757907B is the electrical connection dead end plug to use instead of tape, came with the Termi pipes . Shouldn't be that expensive and shouldn't take tooo long to come from Italy :rolleyes:
Feh, if it can't be fixed with some kind of tape, I'm not interested. lol

:abduct:
 

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wish my Zard headers were that clean and un-tarnished! did u sand them back?
They clean up pretty quick with 400 grit sandpaper, sanded around the tube
and not lengthwise. I used strips of that black automotive wet-dry paper
and the Zards look almost like new after you do it. Mine has the little
heat shield and mounts removed entirely.

Pic is from day before a track day last Spring, so no license plate...
 

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wish myzard headers were that clean and un-tarnished! did u sand them back?

No, I just cleaned them with Acetone after the install to make sure that I got all of the dirt and oils off before I started it.

-KK
 
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