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'99 ST2, '06 1000ss
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last week, I finally finished the essential work required to take my new-to-me 1000ss to the track. Fork seals replaced, steering damper mounted, brakes bled, new tires and a bunch of other little minor things that needed to be done. Please anyone with thoughts and/or advice, please chime in.

The good - I really like this bike and received a lot of complements. Managed to get bumped out of the novice group with her - raced like 20 years ago but I've been off bikes for about 18 of those and you (wisely) have to start at novice until they can give you a look over and make sure you can handle yourself on a track. Here's a shot of me my buddy captured on his go pro riding behind me. We're going up the hill of the off camber at Grattan Raceway Park running CCW.

1012723


The Bad - I love the bike but, there's a lot of work still to be done to do to get her running right!

The Whacky Tachy - when riding on the road, the tach starts acting really funny anywhere above 5k. It's not resetting or anything but it waves back and forth becoming completely useless to tell what your engine RPM is. More thoughts on the wacky tachy to follow...

Fueling issues - This bike came with a Microtec M197 that apparently was mapped by DucShop in Atlanta by some guy (Sam maybe?) that really knows 2-valve motors. Unfortunately, the motor has major fueling issues higher in the RPM range but, I can't tell exactly where because the tach isn't working at higher RPM. When I went for my intermediate evaluation ride where an instructor follows you to see how you do, I mentioned that I'm slow down the front straight due to some fueling issues - after the ride he said it sounded like he was under fire!

I first detected this when I received the bike and after some discussions with the hive, we thought it was probably dirty injectors. I checked race results online and this bike did indeed perform like the seller said (wins and podiums). The seller also didn't seem like he's making stuff up and, I assume that DucShop knows what they're doing. The bike sat for maybe a year before I bought it so the dirty injector thing sounds reasonable.

Before the track day I went on a 60 mile ride (bike is streetable, titled/plated and insured), to run some gas with a heavy concentration of Techron in there and it seemed to get better but, the problem was still pretty bad. The bike runs fine from idle to about I'm guessing 6k. From 6k to a bit near redline, the motor still pulls well but there's stuttering, popping, machine gun fire and so forth for a couple thousand revs. Maybe 1k before the rev limiter cuts in, it feels like the ignition is cutting out entirely for a split second, then the power kicks in again, then rev limiter.

The color on the inside of the silencer seems to be going more into the light grey to almost white as opposed to the darker grey or black I'm seeing in the exhausts of other 2-valve ducs.

I think the diagnostic procedure here will begin with removal and thorough cleaning of the injectors which sounds like a pain but not that big of a pain. I can set something up to pulse them to get cleaner into the internals.

I'll also be contacting DucShop who also happens to be the authorized dealer for Microtec ECUs to get a cable/converter, software and hopefully a manual for it as well (bike came with none of these).

Depending on how the software works, if it is just dirty injectors, I might just be able to richen it up a bit on top until the injectors get cleaned up. This will all depend on if the software has a way to do something like macro adjustments to the table in zones.

M197/Wacky tachy - having taken a bit of a look at the schematic for the 1000ss, it looks like the tach signal comes as pulse signal directly from the ECU. There is a lot of corrosion on the bike (Florida bike that spent a lot of time sitting outside) so maybe this is as simple as cleaning all the connections between the ECU and the Tach.

For a hot minute I thought that the odd tach behavior correlated to the misfiring but I'm not so sure now. The misfiring happens in the weird zone of the rev range but I'm now unsure whether they're related. I'm leaning toward not related but perhaps someone with some experience can chime in. Maybe crank position sensor is bad or connections corroded?

Gearing - Bike came geared 14-41 which is definitely too short for Grattan. This is also way shorter than stock. Any advice on a good setup for Grattan would be appreciated. I was in 6th about a third of the way down the straight - um, no.

Chassis Setup This bike had a front-end swap from a 1098s. I didn't notice in particular any handling problems but, I felt that I might have been a little faster on my ST2 when I took her to the track. When I look at the front end, there's about 1.5" of fork tube sticking out above the top clamp which is also the last line marked on the fork tube:
1012746


Perhaps this is fine but I seem to think its rare to see a bike with this much fork above the triple. I have to wonder if this setup has more to do with the clip ons that are there rather than what's best for the bike.

She seemed to handle pretty well, wasn't particularly twitchy or anything but I do have a damper installed now. With my level of experience plus the 20 years off the track, I simply can't tell if the bike would handle better or wors with the forks dropped to something more normal to the eye. Perhaps this has something to do with why I was being a bit more timid on the track that day. Unfortunately, I think I need riser clip ons to mount under the clamp to drop the forks and have the handle bars end up in the right place but hell, what's another $200....

The Ugly - Turns out the high pipes are right where my heel wants to be!

1012752


With this combo of rear sets, it's just right where I want to put my heel!

1012753


I'll have to figure out some sort of heat shield action to prevent this from happening or figure out a way to move the pipes further back. I like the location of the rear sets so don't really want to get into moving those.

Anyhow, thanks for reading. If anyone has any advice on any of these points, please chime in! Would be greatly appreciated. I absolutely love this bike and want to get her purring!
 

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Premium Member
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958 Posts
Just a random thought re the fueling issues - you may want to have the TPS checked. Assuming that the mapping was done correctly and that the ECU is ok, a bad sensor could be causing the issues you describe.

As far as your heel clearance issues, I've got size 12 feet and I hate the high pipes on these bikes. I just can't get comfortable in the corners if my feet aren't in the right spot. I solved it by going to custom mid pipe.

Best of luck and welcome back to track riding.
 

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Just Visiting Your Planet
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10,472 Posts
The tach and fueling can also be attributed to a failing CPS.
 

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Premium Member
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958 Posts
Btw, I've got 1098 FGRT forks on my 98 SS and they're on where near that high in the triples. I know that the stock forks are positioned high so that the clip-ons can be on top of the triple, but I believe they're longer overall. The caveat to this is that I don't know how different your newer SS frame geometry is from the previous model that I ride. Definitely worth investigating IMO.

Fwiw, here's a pic of mine..
1012755
 

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Registered
1993 900SS
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92 Posts
Last week, I finally finished the essential work required to take my new-to-me 1000ss to the track. Fork seals replaced, steering damper mounted, brakes bled, new tires and a bunch of other little minor things that needed to be done. Please anyone with thoughts and/or advice, please chime in.

The good - I really like this bike and received a lot of complements. Managed to get bumped out of the novice group with her - raced like 20 years ago but I've been off bikes for about 18 of those and you (wisely) have to start at novice until they can give you a look over and make sure you can handle yourself on a track. Here's a shot of me my buddy captured on his go pro riding behind me. We're going up the hill of the off camber at Grattan Raceway Park running CCW.

View attachment 1012723

The Bad - I love the bike but, there's a lot of work still to be done to do to get her running right!

The Whacky Tachy - when riding on the road, the tach starts acting really funny anywhere above 5k. It's not resetting or anything but it waves back and forth becoming completely useless to tell what your engine RPM is. More thoughts on the wacky tachy to follow...

Fueling issues - This bike came with a Microtec M197 that apparently was mapped by DucShop in Atlanta by some guy (Sam maybe?) that really knows 2-valve motors. Unfortunately, the motor has major fueling issues higher in the RPM range but, I can't tell exactly where because the tach isn't working at higher RPM. When I went for my intermediate evaluation ride where an instructor follows you to see how you do, I mentioned that I'm slow down the front straight due to some fueling issues - after the ride he said it sounded like he was under fire!

I first detected this when I received the bike and after some discussions with the hive, we thought it was probably dirty injectors. I checked race results online and this bike did indeed perform like the seller said (wins and podiums). The seller also didn't seem like he's making stuff up and, I assume that DucShop knows what they're doing. The bike sat for maybe a year before I bought it so the dirty injector thing sounds reasonable.

Before the track day I went on a 60 mile ride (bike is streetable, titled/plated and insured), to run some gas with a heavy concentration of Techron in there and it seemed to get better but, the problem was still pretty bad. The bike runs fine from idle to about I'm guessing 6k. From 6k to a bit near redline, the motor still pulls well but there's stuttering, popping, machine gun fire and so forth for a couple thousand revs. Maybe 1k before the rev limiter cuts in, it feels like the ignition is cutting out entirely for a split second, then the power kicks in again, then rev limiter.

The color on the inside of the silencer seems to be going more into the light grey to almost white as opposed to the darker grey or black I'm seeing in the exhausts of other 2-valve ducs.

I think the diagnostic procedure here will begin with removal and thorough cleaning of the injectors which sounds like a pain but not that big of a pain. I can set something up to pulse them to get cleaner into the internals.

I'll also be contacting DucShop who also happens to be the authorized dealer for Microtec ECUs to get a cable/converter, software and hopefully a manual for it as well (bike came with none of these).

Depending on how the software works, if it is just dirty injectors, I might just be able to richen it up a bit on top until the injectors get cleaned up. This will all depend on if the software has a way to do something like macro adjustments to the table in zones.

M197/Wacky tachy - having taken a bit of a look at the schematic for the 1000ss, it looks like the tach signal comes as pulse signal directly from the ECU. There is a lot of corrosion on the bike (Florida bike that spent a lot of time sitting outside) so maybe this is as simple as cleaning all the connections between the ECU and the Tach.

For a hot minute I thought that the odd tach behavior correlated to the misfiring but I'm not so sure now. The misfiring happens in the weird zone of the rev range but I'm now unsure whether they're related. I'm leaning toward not related but perhaps someone with some experience can chime in. Maybe crank position sensor is bad or connections corroded?

Gearing - Bike came geared 14-41 which is definitely too short for Grattan. This is also way shorter than stock. Any advice on a good setup for Grattan would be appreciated. I was in 6th about a third of the way down the straight - um, no.

Chassis Setup This bike had a front-end swap from a 1098s. I didn't notice in particular any handling problems but, I felt that I might have been a little faster on my ST2 when I took her to the track. When I look at the front end, there's about 1.5" of fork tube sticking out above the top clamp which is also the last line marked on the fork tube:
View attachment 1012746

Perhaps this is fine but I seem to think its rare to see a bike with this much fork above the triple. I have to wonder if this setup has more to do with the clip ons that are there rather than what's best for the bike.

She seemed to handle pretty well, wasn't particularly twitchy or anything but I do have a damper installed now. With my level of experience plus the 20 years off the track, I simply can't tell if the bike would handle better or wors with the forks dropped to something more normal to the eye. Perhaps this has something to do with why I was being a bit more timid on the track that day. Unfortunately, I think I need riser clip ons to mount under the clamp to drop the forks and have the handle bars end up in the right place but hell, what's another $200....

The Ugly - Turns out the high pipes are right where my heel wants to be!

View attachment 1012752

With this combo of rear sets, it's just right where I want to put my heel!

View attachment 1012753

I'll have to figure out some sort of heat shield action to prevent this from happening or figure out a way to move the pipes further back. I like the location of the rear sets so don't really want to get into moving those.

Anyhow, thanks for reading. If anyone has any advice on any of these points, please chime in! Would be greatly appreciated. I absolutely love this bike and want to get her purring!
Hi Beerco,
Nice bike and pics!
Let me apologize upfront in case i am bringing up something stupid. But there is a dark line at the rear shock mount of the swing arm (pic 3). That is not a crack, right?
Almost certainly nothing but better safe than sorry…
Cheers,
H.
 

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** Warning - non-expert responding **- replacing the OE reg/rec on my 998 solved a whole series of issues, including a tacho that would have been more use as a barometer. I installed a Mosfet plug and play kit and was very, very happy.
 

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If the fuel filter hasn't been replaced it's probably time. Especially if it has been sitting. Also have a close look at the in tank hoses. Sitting outside in humid conditions would have me inspecting harness connections and especially the chassis ground connections for the harness.
 

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Rig up a gauge on the fuel supply ring to injectors that you are rude with, could be loosing fuel pressure at higher revs, the gray pipes kinda indicate lack of fuel/lean
 

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'99 ST2, '06 1000ss
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65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The tach and fueling can also be attributed to a failing CPS.
Yes, that's something I'm considering. I searched and found your thread where you had a bad CPS and it seems that it can fail in a way that it works for certain rev ranges and not for others. The prior owner said the thing ran like a dream before he handed it off to a dealership to sell on consignment. There were a lot of corroded parts on the bike, being a Florida bike and all, so maybe they can go bad just sitting there.

I'm calling up DucShop tomorrow to beg/plead/pay them to send/sell me the stuff I need to connect to the ECU. I have to assume that you can interrogate while it's running and that should make for a quick diagnosis of whether the CPS is bad or not. Heck, maybe the ECU even has DTCs - I can't find any documentation online for it!
 

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'99 ST2, '06 1000ss
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Btw, I've got 1098 FGRT forks on my 98 SS and they're on where near that high in the triples. I know that the stock forks are positioned high so that the clip-ons can be on top of the triple, but I believe they're longer overall. The caveat to this is that I don't know how different your newer SS frame geometry is from the previous model that I ride. Definitely worth investigating IMO.

Fwiw, here's a pic of mine..
Just for giggles, could you measure from the floor to the top of the lower triple clamp? That should be a pretty consistent and easy thing to measure. And, favor, if anyone has a stock 1000ss DS, could you do the same and post it here?
 

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Yes, anything in Florida that sits around very long corrodes and doesn’t run right. Clean every connector and every ground .
 

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2009 M1100S, 2003 Aprilia RSV Mille-R, 2x 1981Guzzi Monzas, IWL Pity, Piaggio Hexagon, PX Vespa
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On the previous generation (900s) of ie Supersports the wacky-tacky was normally a loose brass screw (of which there 3) on the back of the tacho housing. Cheap and quick to check. Happened to my GFs M900ie a could of weeks ago. Cheapest fix i ever performed on that thing.
 

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'99 ST2, '06 1000ss
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Fwiw, here's a pic of mine..
Forgot to mention in my last post - Absolutely Beautiful job!! I have a thought that maybe someday when I have a slow winter I'll be able to get mine that clean!

What pipe is that? You've now got me thinking about a 2-1 system!
 

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Forgot to mention in my last post - Absolutely Beautiful job!! I have a thought that maybe someday when I have a slow winter I'll be able to get mine that clean!

What pipe is that? You've now got me thinking about a 2-1 system!
The pipe was made by Randy at Stradafab. He does amazing work. Aside from being very light, I like that it allows me to use a 1098 side stand that tucks in really nicely. The oem side stand always got in the way of the shifter (again with the big feet - lol). As mentioned, it also provides lots of heel clearance. And, it looks cool!
 

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Just for giggles, could you measure from the floor to the top of the lower triple clamp? That should be a pretty consistent and easy thing to measure. And, favor, if anyone has a stock 1000ss DS, could you do the same and post it here?
With the front end suspended and the fork fully extended, my fork length is 680 mm measured from under the top triple to the center of the axel.

I'll take the measurement you've requested and post it shortly.
 

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'99 ST2, '06 1000ss
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
With the front end suspended and the fork fully extended, my fork length is 680 mm measured from under the top triple to the center of the axel.

I'll take the measurement you've requested and post it shortly.
I've been thinking about this and the measurement I asked for is a bad one. Your measurement from under the top clamp to the axel is a much better one. I just roughly measured mine and it's around 645 to 650mm so yea, my front end is quite a bit lower than yours. I'm going to have to fix that!
 

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'99 ST2, '06 1000ss
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The tach and fueling can also be attributed to a failing CPS.
Going back to this topic - I've found the Bosch replacement for $40 so I'm just going to try it but, I can't find shim kits anywhere. Anyone know where I can find some?
 

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With the front end suspended and the fork fully extended, my fork length is 680 mm measured from under the top triple to the center of the axel.
Interestingly. I learned, that SS and Superbike forks tend to be 720-740 mm from top to center of axle (888, 848, 749) while Monster (900, S4RS) tend to be shorter at 700-705. And yes, Monster's are very low.

One of the guys I share my workshop with does have a 1000 SS – if he comes in, I could measure that.
 

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On the pipe color, are you running race fuel [leaded?] Cam 2, Purple and Blue will give you a light grayish to white pipe color when the mix is right.
 
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