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Discussion Starter #1
Almost done with my 7.5K service. My valves were all well withen spec, but the cam belts were scary loose.:eek: I mean like flopping around off the tensioner rollers loose. My bike has 7K on the clock and I advise you guys to check the belts before this and perhaps more often, I know I will from now on. The belts themselves look great and there was very little debri or dust under the covers. Most of the work in doing this service is taking everything off to get to the heads, the actual checks/adjustments are not rocket science.
 

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Almost done with my 7.5K service. My valves were all well withen spec, but the cam belts were scary loose.:eek: I mean like flopping around off the tensioner rollers loose. My bike has 7K on the clock and I advise you guys to check the belts before this and perhaps more often, I know I will from now on. The belts themselves look great and there was very little debri or dust under the covers. Most of the work in doing this service is taking everything off to get to the heads, the actual checks/adjustments are not rocket science.
Interesting about the belts. When I get through my second set of tires I may just have the first service done then (~6000 miles).

I'm with you on the valves. My days of doing my own valve checks are gone... it's not the check that's the issue, it's the getting all the crap off!
 

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Just had mine done about a month ago, 12000klms up here. My valves were within spec as well. Tech guy said you really have to ride her hard to need adjustments. Timing belts were ok as well. Will keep an eye on them though.
 

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Almost done with my 7.5K service. My valves were all well withen spec, but the cam belts were scary loose.:eek: I mean like flopping around off the tensioner rollers loose. My bike has 7K on the clock and I advise you guys to check the belts before this and perhaps more often, I know I will from now on. The belts themselves look great and there was very little debri or dust under the covers. Most of the work in doing this service is taking everything off to get to the heads, the actual checks/adjustments are not rocket science.
hiow much does the first service cost and what exactly do they do ?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I used guitar tuner software and a mic on my laptop for the belts, took a half hour tops. I'll be checking this at every oil change as its very easy and a failed belt means disaster. For the valves I used the "loaded gap" method, wher you depress the closer rocker and measure the opener clearance again, the difference between the two being the actual closer clearance. I don't bounce off the rev limiter often, prefering the midrange, so things were in good shape.

To have this done is about $600 -$700 here. I had no intention from the start of paying these dealer fees, and made it clear that if my own work was not acceptable I would not be buying the bike. Its not that hard, just a little different, and lot of parts come off. Every bike has a learning curve, once you do it, its a lot faster the next time.
 

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I used guitar tuner software and a mic on my laptop for the belts, took a half hour tops. I'll be checking this at every oil change as its very easy and a failed belt means disaster. For the valves I used the "loaded gap" method, wher you depress the closer rocker and measure the opener clearance again, the difference between the two being the actual closer clearance. I don't bounce off the rev limiter often, prefering the midrange, so things were in good shape.

To have this done is about $600 -$700 here. I had no intention from the start of paying these dealer fees, and made it clear that if my own work was not acceptable I would not be buying the bike. Its not that hard, just a little different, and lot of parts come off. Every bike has a learning curve, once you do it, its a lot faster the next time.
how often o u have to pay these very big mainenence fees?
 

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Is everyone generally sticking with 7500 mile intervals (major service), as opposed to that or 12 months, whichever comes first? The manual would have you believe the major service needs doing at 12 months regardless of mileage.
Given that I'll probably only put about 4000-5000 miles on my bike over the summer, that'd mean I'd be due for the major service come next year if I go by the 12 month schedule.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
From what I've been reading, and was noted by a few Ducati techs, is that the 7500 mi vs. 6000 mi interval is simply a marketing tool. Many techs will still personally recommend 6000 mile intervals. The only issue with time coming into play as I can see it is with the rubber timing belts possibly aging, applicable to bikes that sit a lot. Your use sounds about like mine, so you will hit the milage first. I got my bike exactly a year ago and I'm just under 7K miles. I'll do the service next spring with a belt and plug change when I hit 12K to 15K, but at a convienient time. I WILL check the belt tension a couple times before that though. The valves do not worry me, if they were going to tighten up they would have done so in the first 6K. Like was said it depends a lot on how you ride it. To many cops around here looking to take my money to flirt with the rev limiter every day.

DIY, you save a ton of cash, get to know the bike, and also find other little potential problems that a dealer tech may overlook. For exampe I found a bare spot in the harness wrapping that could have chaffed a wire, and several loose fasteners.
 

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I just had my 7500 mile service completed on my hypermotard on Tuesday by a dealership and got taken advantage of. I called three different dealerships here in SoCal including the one I purchased my bike from and got quotes ranging from $980 to $650. I verified that the dealership who quoted me $650 did everything that needed to be done and that that price included parts. Well needless to say when the work was completed they gave me a bill for $850. The service manager told me that the $650 was just for labor and that all of my valves were out of adjustment (more labor). That being said, my question for Member GMP is how did you know what to do for your service and how to do it. I am interested so I won't have to take a loan out for my next service.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Mattman,

Get the service manual, study it, and see if its withen your mechanical skill level. The Desmo Times book is also good and there are some videos around as well. For a guy who has been around bikes for a few years its no big deal, but its not the bike to learn on. Mistakes are expensive. The manual referances a lot of special tools, but there are other ways to do what needs to be done. You will need all the required basic tools, a laptop with VDST and guitar tuner software, a microphone, carb sync sticks, and use of a CO meter or analyzer.

I heard from several sources that the valves rarely move unless the bike is ridden hard often, so all of them being out of spec sounds odd. So they charged you $200 in parts, which should be be an oil filter, oil, plug washers, and any needed shims. No gaskets are needed as the valve covers have o-rings. A full shim kit is $350-$400. Post your itemized parts list.

Honestly, I could not afford this bike if I could not service it myself, and would have bought something else.
 

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How did you turn the wrench light out ?

Mattman,

Get the service manual, study it, and see if its withen your mechanical skill level. The Desmo Times book is also good and there are some videos around as well. For a guy who has been around bikes for a few years its no big deal, but its not the bike to learn on. Mistakes are expensive. The manual referances a lot of special tools, but there are other ways to do what needs to be done. You will need all the required basic tools, a laptop with VDST and guitar tuner software, a microphone, carb sync sticks, and use of a CO meter or analyzer.

I heard from several sources that the valves rarely move unless the bike is ridden hard often, so all of them being out of spec sounds odd. So they charged you $200 in parts, which should be be an oil filter, oil, plug washers, and any needed shims. No gaskets are needed as the valve covers have o-rings. A full shim kit is $350-$400. Post your itemized parts list.

Honestly, I could not afford this bike if I could not service it myself, and would have bought something else.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
No, all you need is the VDST-Standard, for $200. The Standard is good for only one family of ECU, where the other can be used on all the ECUs, and is more for a shop.
 

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No, all you need is the VDST-Standard, for $200. The Standard is good for only one family of ECU, where the other can be used on all the ECUs, and is more for a shop.
True. I work on many different models with differing ECU's so it was worth it for me.

$200 is a better option, for sure. :)
 

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Anyone have a vest near Santa Barbara? After one year I still love this bike! I've owned over 50 bikes and driven hundreds and I can say this is my fav
 
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