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Discussion Starter #1
I am pulling my hair out trying to figure this cable set up! I bought the "correct" Motion Pro cables for my FCR install and nothing is working out right. The twist grip end of the cables dont have the cable adjusters that screw into the throttle housing, the cables just exit a cheap looking plastic tube that has about a 30 degree bend on it that makes it impossible to install into the cable housing and the cables are soo stiff that it is impossible to get them routed in any fashion that will work.

Any insight, close up pics of the throttle cable housing and how to route the cables??

Thanks!
 

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I just did mine, and I agree the motion pro throttle kind of sucks. There are only adjusters on the carb bell crank end. The routing goes over the headlight bracket to left side of bike. Between frame rails, to the carbs. You have to cut out part of the air box to get everything to fit. Search on this forum for a thread called 41mm FCR carbs, and a post from TassieDave. It has good info.
 

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I should add that the way the cables route, it is very easy to get them kinked under the fuel tank. A kinked or poorly adjusted throttle cable can result in death, so be careful. If you have any concerns regarding you ability to do this, I suggest you have a professional work on it.


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Discussion Starter #4
I gave up on the throttle cables... they seem very low quality, a plastic tube at the end, really??? I ended up converting it to a single cable set up. easy to adjust this way.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
any pictures of the twist grip end? im curious as to how you adapted the cheap plastic ends to the grip housing..
 

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Tassie Dave is correct. If you are trying to use the Motion Pro cables with the OEM Ducati twist grip, it won't work; or at least won't work as designed. My kit (CA Cycleworks) came with a grip. The "half oval" ends of the throttle cables fit into a metal housing at the output of the new grip and "locked" that end of the cables. Adjustment at the carb end. Maybe I'm overly paranoid, but I wouldn't trust just the return spring to close the throttle.
 

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It can be made to work, I did it. It's simpler than you might think, the kicker is there is no easy way to use the original sleeve as it has an assemetical pull for throttle and return.

There was no way I was putting the POS $16 Motion Pro throttle on the bike so I set about making the stock throttle work. I wanted to go with double pull so the stock sleeve wasn't going to do it for me.

You cut the plastic guide sleeves on the Motion Pro cables that go into the Motion Pro grip, then take the original adjusters from the stock throttle and slot them (and the lock nut) with a hacksaw. You might only really have to do the smaller lock nut, I did both. After they are slotted you can put them on the Motion Pro cables where you cut off the plastic ends with no additional changes to the cable. With the plastic guides removed the length left is close enough to the stock Ducati length to work. You might have to juggle the holes on the FCR throttle spool but that is a no brainer to work out

For the twist sleeve I used a Kyle Racing aluminium Kawasaki piece that had the same pull as the Motion Pro and Stock Ducati (they are basically the same pull) and welded a bit of extra material to make contact with the throttle stop in the housing. I had a Sato Racing sleeve that would have also worked from a 1098. Both of them are a a couple of mm narrower inside the housing and were spaced with a delin spacer to remove any slack. I did speak to G4 about doing a custom spool and they were willing, this would have been the correct width and incorporate the throttle stop. Sudco should buy those and include them with the kit instead of the crap MP units

I bought a second hand Duc Throttle and did all the work off the bike so it was still running while I sorted it all out.

After all that effort I switched to a Radial Master off a 1098 and there was no simple way to make the cables pass by the brake port and the riser on the stock clip on's, so I switched over to a 1098/848 throttle housing with the special bend out of the housing to miss the brake lines and I did a full custom with a mount below the spool on the FCR so the cables run straight down out of the carbs then below the airbox back through the triple as they originally did. The Sudco down the side of the tank and around the front of the steering head route sucks. I have stock 1098 cable outers to their mid point adjusters (they sit between the top and bottom yokes in the triple), then I added new outers to the carbs, did new inner cabls and I have adjusters from the Mikunis at the cable bracket on the FCR's

The 1098 throttles with cables are quite cheap on ebay for quite a nice piece, and they have a ton of aftermarket sleeves available if you want a shorter throw or a "tamer" style with a variable ramp. You need the Original cables to start with as they have bendy plastic sleeves to guide the cable into the throttle housng like the Motion Pro, but they are not the same.
 

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Wow Dave G, you got way more talent than I. I had a tough enough time getting the Motion Pro throttle to fit. I agree it's cheap, but the housing is metal, not plastic; and the twist tube is covered by a grip. I too think they should provide a better piece for this price, but it seems to work.
 

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I think it was determination driven by dissapointment rather than talent. I was so upset when I opened the package from CA Cycles. I know it's not Chris's fault. I spoke to him about options and he tried to help, but it seemed a dead end.

I rode 2 bikes with the MP throttles and I didn't like the sleeve fit on the bar (slop) or the length of the sleeve being shorter, I have large hands and the MP sleeve is just a tad too short. I was going to add a bit of material but... Also they don't look quite right. I looked at an FE with FCR's and the MP throttle looked so out of place on a pristine bike. I think you could direct swap up the the MP Revolver throttle, it seems to use the same guide system.

I am bummed I cut the side of my Airbox, with my current setup I could have left that alone. Cutting away all the web on the left side makes the battery carrier pretty flexible, I cut only just enough, less than the drawing. I talked to Sudco and bought a different cable mount before I did my own. There are about a dozen available, but nothing that will work straight down.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/2zLCyhgXeS_mVmlhclDjI9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

My clearance issue solved with 1098 throttle around the radial master banjo's

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/rmymkbClSNQZMvZQkIcsutMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink
 

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I talked to Sudco and bought a different cable mount before I did my own. There are about a dozen available, but nothing that will work straight down.
Hey Dave! What parts did you get from Sudco? I think I'd rather use the same method you did and not mess with cutting up my airbox. Any other advice with that method?
 

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Hey Dave! What parts did you get from Sudco? I think I'd rather use the same method you did and not mess with cutting up my airbox. Any other advice with that method?
Sudco is a bit of a dead end, they have nothing that sits vertically down and will work with the spools on racked FCR's. I bought the closest one to see if I could make it happen but it was not workable.

I made the bracket out of 1/8-3mm 6000 series aluminum angle, I picked up the small fastener that the stock Sudco bracket used that is about 4 o'clock looking at the spool and I used a spacer (stainless steel tubing) that fitted in where the racking bolt socket head fitted. The spacer is long enough to make the bracket sit at the same level as the small bolt I mentioned earlier.

The bracket profile is cut to fit hard up against the carb body where the throttle shaft bearing is so the bolts are more in shear and the load from the cable pushes on the carb body not the bolts.

Obviously the racking bolt needs to be replaced with a longer one and I think the small fastener also as the bracket was a bit thicker than stock. I found them at a local hardware.

I slotted and tapped the bracket to suit the adjusting barrels of the stock Mikuni, depending on what cable and adjuster configuration and the twist throttle there are a few options. I used a jamb nut above and below the bracket so tapping just makes the adjustment easier but isn't critical. You can buy suitable adjusters and hardware aftermarket if you want to save your original cables.

I ended up using a 1098 throttle as it has the bend to clear the brake lines on the 1098 master cylinder I'm using. I made up my on cables, with soldered on knarps.

There is only one position on the cable spool you can use for the this setup, so the pull cable has to do a 270 degree wrap on the spool, a good thing really but the cable needs to be long on the opening cable and shorter on the closing cable.

If a few people were interested I could make a few, but it wouldn't be till the end of January as I'm heading south for the winter, I could pull the bracket off and dimension it, I had planed to do one that picked up the top bolt also, but this one has been perfect and given zero trouble. As I mentioned I had already cut my airbox but I have since bought an unmolested one and it fits over.

On a separate note I found my airbox leaned on the fuel bowls pretty hard when bolted in. I marked the positions and heated up the spot on the airbox with a hot air gun and pushing a ball peen hammer onto the hot ABS dimpled the box in and it fits on a lot happier, you don't have to push the box against the carbs to get the front fasteners to start.

 

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Just did mine the day before yesterday. Was a bit of a wrestling match. Here are a few picks if the routing that worked for me.

gtista

'93 900ss
2000 M900ie
I know this was posted a long time ago... but wanted to quickly comment to move this up in the threads. It saved my bacon. I had the cable routed similarly, but when riding, the throttle would sometimes hang a bit just before dropping to idle. I thought it was the carb needing adjustment... but when combined with the HARD/HEAVY throttle twist, I screenshotted the pictures from the post (see #5) and re-routed the cable. Now the throttle is the same as it was with the Mikuni, and no more (mechanically) hanging idle. It functions like butter now. So thanks, gtista, ghost of Christmas past. Worked like a charm.
 
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