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Just thought I'd share some pics of some velocity stacks I made for my split FCR's. Might make a 2.0 thats a bit shorter. Mostly made because the bike seemed to like the blue stock ones (that wont let you run a proper filter) more than the really short filter adapters. This is running a split setup on short manifolds.


Most time consuming was measuring the flange to make i fit the carb ( I wanted the air jets to breathe through the intake like the aluminum filter adapter. I think it took 6 tries of measuring and printing 3mm flanges before i got it to slip over jets and fittings good..


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Not knowing exactly which bike you are using these for, and not knowing where you live-ie the riding environment you have I personally would not run velocity stacks without some kind of filtration --I live in Florida so sand is everywhere & the last thing I want going into my engine is sand it will cause lots of damage--I race in AHRMA on a 1972 BMW R75/5--Yea I know it's not a Duc but I run Dellorto's on my race bike -I have on a dyno checked HP numbers using velocity stacks compared to K&N pod filters---Zero difference This is on an engine that is built full race to GP spec, So I run the K&N pod filters, to protect the engine. Even when I go to tracks that dont have an issue with sand I leave the pod's on because there is always other garbage that can get sucked in and to me it's not worth the risk
 

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Nice job!
I need to buy a 3d printer and give it a go. I get the lament of fitting air filters to the stacks it is always a challenge, be sure to let us know how it fits up. With the 3d printing you should be able to tailor the stack to fit the filter. My question will be how the stack material holds up long term being exposed to fuel and crazy intake pressures, if you have ever been beside a bike running open filters on a dyno you know what I mean.

I picked up a set of the K&N stacks to try but have not had my split single bike available to do proper testing, I might need to get that printer sooner than later.
 

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you can get these ones from k&n, yours look longer so maybe do a test to see how long it likes. might surprise you how long an intake a split carb set up likes. you might need to go longer again.


if you make the filter seat flange longer and larger diameter, you can move the inside of the filter away from the end of the bell mouth a little and get a nicer bell mouth shape. like the ends made for the injected bikes that corse dynamics still make that wasp started. CORSE DYNAMICS High Performance Two Valve Ducati Intake Kit

if you're not space constricted go big. likewise on the thickness of the part for strength.
 

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Nice! Here is version 1.1 and 1.2 of my 3D printed intake adapters for racked FCRs. They have a built in angle so the filters fit nicer under the tank. My dad did the CAD and printing based on measurements I emailed him, and surprisingly we got it to fit first try with some minor filing. These two latest versions should hopefully slip on perfectly.
 

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Looks very nice
 

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OK I have a question, I'm an old fart and this 3d printing is new to me. On my 91 900SS the intake manifolds are aluminium I know they have to be way stronger then the plastic 3d printed one-Now since there is fuel & heat involved & these manifolds bolt to the head which is going to get pretty damn hot, what my concern would be is warping or even melting at the junction between the head & manifold, causing an air leak and crappy running.Now being that I know nothing about 3d printing is my concern valid?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
These are all air filter side of the carb so heat should be okay. Fuel will spray back so that will be a question.

IIRC there are plastic intake manifolds for cars (ford 5.0 ) so I see no reason the right plastic wont work, wheres an engineer when you need one?
The PLA is printed a approx. 190 deg celsius (just above 370 F) but it gets a bit softer around 60 C (140 F).
It's supposed to withstand fuel to some extent at least, and I think the intake air will help the stacks stay kinda cool (remember some stock mikunis on SS bikes that has an oil route from the cooler to prevent carbs from icing).

Heat-wise I think biggest threat is slow traffic on a hot day, but I rarely do other stuff than back roads and track days with this bike and sweden isn't really warm anyways so..

If they wear "prematurely" I'll just print another set. Takes a couple of hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
you can get these ones from k&n, yours look longer so maybe do a test to see how long it likes. might surprise you how long an intake a split carb set up likes. you might need to go longer again.


if you make the filter seat flange longer and larger diameter, you can move the inside of the filter away from the end of the bell mouth a little and get a nicer bell mouth shape. like the ends made for the injected bikes that corse dynamics still make that wasp started. CORSE DYNAMICS High Performance Two Valve Ducati Intake Kit

if you're not space constricted go big. likewise on the thickness of the part for strength.
These are nice I think, but discontinued AFAIK.
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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Not knowing exactly which bike you are using these for, and not knowing where you live-ie the riding environment you have I personally would not run velocity stacks without some kind of filtration --I live in Florida so sand is everywhere & the last thing I want going into my engine is sand it will cause lots of damage--I race in AHRMA on a 1972 BMW R75/5--Yea I know it's not a Duc but I run Dellorto's on my race bike -I have on a dyno checked HP numbers using velocity stacks compared to K&N pod filters---Zero difference This is on an engine that is built full race to GP spec, So I run the K&N pod filters, to protect the engine. Even when I go to tracks that dont have an issue with sand I leave the pod's on because there is always other garbage that can get sucked in and to me it's not worth the risk
Yes these are for filter mounting (KN pods fits), I might make the flange longer. The option was to run blue stacks without filters(not nice) or with sock filters which I've seen examples of getting sucked in to the carb.

(Edit) Regarding heat and fuel in your other question, as ducvet said heat should:)unsure:) not be a problem but the FCR's spray fuel in all directions in low RPMs which might be an issue. I guess we'll see how they survive.
 

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It will be interesting to see how they last & if no issues Happy Happy Joy Joy lol
 

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I would put some of the print stock in a glass with gasoline to see what happens to it. If fuel dissolves the material in use it seems possible you could end up coating the carb internals and getting it inside the engine. I realize it would not be a lot of the material but it might be problematic.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I would put some of the print stock in a glass with gasoline to see what happens to it. If fuel dissolves the material in use it seems possible you could end up coating the carb internals and getting it inside the engine. I realize it would not be a lot of the material but it might be problematic.
Yeah. Worst case scenario I'll have to switch over to an other filament with better chemical resistance.
 

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I ran the previous version of the filter holders I posted above for about 6 months with zero deformation or melting. They were printed in ABS though, not PLA. So they are quite heat resistant and I have zero concerns even for a hot day in traffic.

I had to replace them because the mounting holes were slightly undersized, causing me to have to drill them out a bit which caused a small crack in one of them near the flange. Recently I had to pull the carbs, and when I grabbed them by the filter holders to pull them off the part split.

These latest light grey ones are printed in ASA which has even better mechanical properties and heat resistance. The flange area is also redesigned, much thicker and without the sharp corner that cracked on the last ones.

Both ABS and ASA are slightly more complicated to print with, you need a heated base and ideally an enclosure.
 

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Outstanding work.
Just thought I'd share some pics of some velocity stacks I made for my split FCR's. Might make a 2.0 thats a bit shorter. Mostly made because the bike seemed to like the blue stock ones (that wont let you run a proper filter) more than the really short filter adapters. This is running a split setup on short manifolds.


Most time consuming was measuring the flange to make i fit the carb ( I wanted the air jets to breathe through the intake like the aluminum filter adapter. I think it took 6 tries of measuring and printing 3mm flanges before i got it to slip over jets and fittings good..


View attachment 978714 View attachment 978715
[/QUOTE
 

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The option was to run blue stacks without filters(not nice) or with sock filters which I've seen examples of getting sucked in to the carb.
I initially ran the blue stacks on my Monster with split-single FCR 41s.

I fitted the sock type filters as there was no way I wanted to run it without filters - especially for the forward-facing intake just behind the front wheel! but on the dyno the filters took away 5-6hp at the top end.

I now have the K&N stacks (as linked above) with large K&N filters, these give a better filtering option and seem to run better although I didn't do a dyno run to compare so can't be certain but, either way I'm happier with the setup.
 

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How about using NylonX for printing? Armchair surfing tells me this is up to the job both chemically & thermally :)

Any tips on a good (affordable) printer for the workshop or does this warrant a new thread:LOL:??
 
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