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typical. get a small, long extension spring and slide it inside the hose. best way to fix it.

if it has those blue trumpets on it and the filters don't sit hard against the carb body, piss them off and get the k&n stacks. that way all the bits are covered.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
typical. get a small, long extension spring and slide it inside the hose. best way to fix it.

if it has those blue trumpets on it and the filters don't sit hard against the carb body, piss them off and get the k&n stacks. that way all the bits are covered.

I should fit the spring inside the hose? That does make more sense than putting the hose through it, but I just want to double-check. Should the hose have a particular quality to it, such as a coating, considering it will spend all its time fully exposed to fuel?

Yeah, I love the sound of air rushing through those stacks + the looks, but I'll verify tomorrow regarding its ability to seat properly. I have Sudco adapters I can install and order some RU1750 pods to match. Well, maybe the 1750 K&Ns don't fit underneath the Monster gas tank, but K&N probably has something similar with correct dimensions.

I just got home from work and replaced the fuel line but I'm too tired to take it for a spin + the exhaust might wake up my neighbors. I'll take it out tomorrow morning and post the results. Fingers crossed 0:)
 

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That is the first time I’ve ever seen someone recommending placing an object inside your fuel line. They make springs for the outside of the fuel lines for this reason.


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Aesthetics of a fuel line... buried in the frame... as justification for introducing a foreign object inside your fuel system?


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Discussion Starter #27
Alright y'all, RockAZ called it with their first post.

There is no more fuel starvation. It went well past what the tech indicated as 100, and 100 was where it would lose power.

The lesson I've learned is to always check lines and even other things in their natural habitat so to speak. Had I viewed that fuel line while the tank was down I would have immediately caught it and addressed it.

I'm still going to play around with the main jets and tune the accel pump (maybe an Athena dual-spray kit). It turns our I already have an EMR needle. I'll use a spring to keep the hose line from kinking.

A personal thanks to everyone who helped out.
 

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Happened to me a few times before I learned not to skip any steps in troubleshooting no matter how tempted,... Every time I don't cover every item in order under in use conditions something like this shows up after I've emptied my wallet to chase down other problems that don't exist.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Happened to me a few times before I learned not to skip any steps in troubleshooting no matter how tempted,... Every time I don't cover every item in order under in use conditions something like this shows up after I've emptied my wallet to chase down other problems that don't exist.
I totally hear you. Admittedly one of my vices is impatience. And that has cost me a lot of money, especially when day-trading Bitcoin. I've lost more money due to impatience than probably any other character flaw I have.
 

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An emr needle works well in the 41.
Hey Belter. For this, what's a good starting point for the clip position? I know there are a million and one variables, but just looking for a ballpark starting point that is reasonable. Mine is a 98 900 SS/FE. 41 FCRs. Standard engine with no modifications. K&N pods with no air box. I've made no changes to the baseline settings on the carbs since new (got them from Motowheels) aside from adjusting the OEM needle clip position one step richer when going from air box to pods (was on the #3 position, moved to #4). Ordered the EMR needles and a kit with various main/slow jets to goof around with. The consistent message appears to be: mess with the mains first and work my way down... but I'll be installing the EMR needles and just wanted a good clip position starting point. For that matter, a good starting point with the mains may be in order as well. Cheers.
 
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