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Discussion Starter #1
I want to protect my fairings from stone damage, mainly the front and lower parts. Film seems to be the easiest way. So far I could only find tank protection in the forum and only 3M was discussed.

I expect to remove and reapply the film every so often, maybe every couple of years, before the film gets trashed too badly and will effect the paint. So it has to come off quite easy. I've read that the 3M film is difficult to remove and the glue stays on the paint.

Anyone has experience with these products: 3M Scotchguard, Xpel, Vvivid, Karlor, Suntek.
I'm especially interested in yellowing, removal and ease of application (some pointy edges/corners here) of the products.

Cheers, Floz
 

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'helitape' was/is used on the leading edge of helicopter rotors (which I have no experience with) and most any forward-facing body surfaces on racecars (which I do have experience with). My experience predates the sale of 'body/paint protection' products to Joe Public so I don't know how that stuff holds up. I know that 'real' helitape works great. But, I would imagine it's not the same thickness as the consumer-grade item just from a cost comparison. On the plus side is that the latest offerings likely maintain their color/clarity longer with 20 years of further development.

Application: clean/buff/wax/polish/seal as you would normally. A hair dryer (or heat gun on the lowest setting) is your friend. Plastic squeegee. New, sharp (sharp) razor blade to score/cut (carefully). Some spray with water to allow repositioning. I tried it once and went back to dry thereafter. Heat will also make removing it easier. Once you have an edged started, pull it back straight over itself (180 deg) and slowly. Pulling it at 90 deg will make any paint not perfectly adhered to the body more likely to come off with the tape.
 

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Tankslapper brand film is very easy to apply and remove. I use to use it
on my Sport classic tank they sell several brands including 3M. I only used
the Tankslapper film it worked and left no glue residue.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
'helitape' was/is used on the leading edge of helicopter rotors (which I have no experience with) and most any forward-facing body surfaces on racecars (which I do have experience with). My experience predates the sale of 'body/paint protection' products to Joe Public so I don't know how that stuff holds up. I know that 'real' helitape works great. But, I would imagine it's not the same thickness as the consumer-grade item just from a cost comparison. On the plus side is that the latest offerings likely maintain their color/clarity longer with 20 years of further development.

Application: clean/buff/wax/polish/seal as you would normally. A hair dryer (or heat gun on the lowest setting) is your friend. Plastic squeegee. New, sharp (sharp) razor blade to score/cut (carefully). Some spray with water to allow repositioning. I tried it once and went back to dry thereafter. Heat will also make removing it easier. Once you have an edged started, pull it back straight over itself (180 deg) and slowly. Pulling it at 90 deg will make any paint not perfectly adhered to the body more likely to come off with the tape.
A quick look on ebay and it looks like Helitape is a lot thicker than 3M Scotchguard. So it probably lasts much longer, however it probably shows up more. Maybe Helitape at the bottom and Scotchguard on the higher up portions of the fairing are the way to go? Price seems to be the same.

Now to the application: so you wax, buff or polish before putting it on? And it sticks on the wax?
 

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XPEL Ultimate is one of the top paint protection films on the market with very good finish and self-healing scratch properties. Removal is not that difficult using a heat gun and proper removal techniques. You want a clean surface free of wax when installing for proper film adhesion. If you haven't installed before and depending on coverage area (full panel vs leading edge strips) you are in for a steep learning curve.

If you want more coverage and to look good, I'd recommend checking your area for ppf installers that have motorcycles in their portfolio.

Ceramic coating does not protect against stone and rock damage like ppf does, it is meant to keep your vehicle shiny longer.
 

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Now to the application: so you wax, buff or polish before putting it on? And it sticks on the wax?
yes, it will still stick. because it will eventually require replacing, you want it to come off as easily as possible. you'll be hating life if you just have the paint 'squeaky clean'. because I was good at applying the stuff (and decals) I was the (un)'lucky' one that got tagged to do it for years.
 

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I have the 3M film on mine. Been on the bike for 7 years or so. Holding up very well...but, I do store the bike in a garage so it's not exposed to UV (except when riding). I haven't tried to take the stuff off, so I'm not sure how that would go. The little front "vee" on the lowers is in direct line of fire of stones and sand from the front wheel. That film is looking a bit aged, but the paint underneath is fine!
 
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