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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I read all the posts I could find on exhaust leaks and decided that anti-seize with a high metal content and high temp rating was the way to go. I have a leak between the header pipe and Termignoni cat eliminator pipe. I applied liberal amounts but not too much to both pipes and let it set overnight. This afternoon I cranked up the bike with great anticipation, well it worked great, no leak, for about 30 seconds and then pushed the anti-seize out of the joint and the leak is back. The clamp is as tight as I can make it. Any suggestions from anyone that's solved the problem (besides welding the two pipe together)?

Tom
 

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FWIW on the trials bike we use the red high temp silicone for the pipe connections. You might give that a try. Use the same anti seize on any bolts that see allot of heat.
 

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High temp RTV instead of anti-seize.
 

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I used brass shim stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
FWIW on the trials bike we use the red high temp silicone for the pipe connections. You might give that a try. Use the same anti seize on any bolts that see allot of heat.
Thanks I'll give it a try. I use the anti seize on the header studs.
 

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Not sure where you got the idea antiseize will stop an exhaust leak, because it most definitely won't. All you need is a shim I suspect. You might just want to swing by a muffler shop believe it or not and tell them what you're looking for. Or perhaps a local autoparts store... never needed to actually look for one before.
 

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Clean up the anti-seize mess with contact cleaner and re-assemble with red hi-temp silicone. Let cure at least overnight before starting. That should work, but if the gap is too big and it blows out, try muffler cement. Both have worked for me.
 

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Clean up the anti-seize mess with contact cleaner and re-assemble with red hi-temp silicone. Let cure at least overnight before starting. That should work, but if the gap is too big and it blows out, try muffler cement. Both have worked for me.
+1 I don't know about the RTV, personally I hate the stuff and avoid using it whenever possible.It's such a "gas station" repair.I don't have an exhaust leak, but if I did I would use an exhaust specific sealer.We use one at our shop(automotive) made by Wurth.Good stuff.
 

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tom ... unless termi has redesigned the cat eliminator they are marketing for the hypertard, all 3 of the earlier eliminators i have seen locally installed, have suffered from leaking, due to the riser section being too short, and not fully sealing against the mid-pipe.

if this is the case, i don't believe there is enough sealing material in the universe to correct the problem.

all 3 local hypertard owners switched to a leovince cat eliminator ... no leaking.

again, i must stress: if termi HAS modified the design of thier cat eliminator and increased the pipe overlap on the connections, then all of the above is just me mouthing off as usual. but if the cat eliminator you have is leaking from the riser side connection, and the pipe overlap looks short ... then solution is switch to a leovince cat eliminator.
 

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I have seen some exhuast repair material that will wrap around the loose end and melt together to seal the gap when heated up. Check your local exhaust shop or auto parts store. If the gap isn't very big, I think the wrap will be too thick to work.

If I were you, I would take the pipe to an exhaust shop and have them flare the male end a little or creat a slight bulge in the pipe to allow it to seal positively.

Out!
 

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I used Permatex ULTRA COPPER High Temp RTV Gasket Good for 700 degrees , as to 650 degrees for the red hi- temp silicone . and the copper is is "Superior Oil Ressitant. I didn't use too much ,to make it easier to seperate later on when I get my Zard pipes, the hardest part of the operation was figuring out how to get the red plastic tail part off over the tail light ...Cheap fix don't make it too difficult... Let it set up for a while before starting.and clean off all excess before it sets up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I'll start with the local exhaust shop and see if they can do something mechanical before I slather any more goo on the pipe.

The leak doesn't seem to happen in more than one joint although it might just be relieving enough pressure so the others don't leak.

+1 on the LeoVince. If I didn't spend the dollars on the Termignoni I'd go that route.

Tom
 

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Just a couple thoughts here .I would almost bet if you bought another clamp or just the bolt and nut . then loosen up all the joints in the system , Clean the offending joints with some isopropl alcohol ,maybe brake cleaner Be careful,apply the Ultra copper let it set up while aligning the system straight .semi tighten up the offending clamp, snug the others then with the new bolt or clamp after the silicone has had a chance to setfor 30 minutes tighten it up to almost max then finish the other joints then go to the offending clamp and give it another final tighten.I think the bolt may be damaged or the clamp distorted...With all the angles in the system misalignment is easy . Pencil mark around the joints and see where your joints sit after tightening. Remember your dealing with heat vibration and expansion .If you do it yourself you save $ and get to know the bike better and you get the warm fuzzy feeling of accomplishment.. (On the down side I've got a few stitches on my wrist from saving $40.oo doing my own exhaust work)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well I decide to take the exhaust system off the bike and to my surprise, although I shouldn't be, every pipe end on the cat eliminator was out-of-round. I guess the expectation of round pipes was beyond reasonable. So I have two choices, either take everything to a shop that knows how to use a pipe expander and put things back in-round or slather on the RTV. RTV won, for five bucks I can fix my exhaust leak problems but I sure would rather have things fit correctly. I guess that will be a project for this winter.
 
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