[levert]

I'd break it hard.Run it like its stolen.With modern metalurgy you really don't need the baby break in. Vary the load, do a lot of different cycles up and down through the rev range. Often people baby the motors and the rings don't seat.
The last two new machines I had were broken in this way and used zilch oil and when sold at super high miles were still running strong.

Before the rebuild did they do a leakdown test?

 

[jack]

Oil is going to go in one of three places, atmoshere (it's being burned), the ground (it's leaking) or the radiator (big mess).

I'd use a low cost petrolium based oil for break in. Run it for 400 to 600 miles. That way if I had to go back into the engine after rebuilding it, I wouldn't have to throw away a more expensive synthetic oil that's barely used. After rebuilding an engine you probably shouldn't leave the oil for too long since it may contain dirt/debris from the rebuild.

Riders in the US use everything, from $2/liter petrolium based oil to petrolium/synthetic blends to $15/liter syntheic based oil. Mobil1 is probably used more than most, but there is a guy here that says he runs Rotella synthetic for diesel engines, so go figure. The cheapest synthetic will probably out perform the better petrolium based oils. When it gets dark, change it, it's going to get dirty eventually. That's just my 2¢ on the subject, virtually everyone will have a different opinion.

 

[620rossco]

How many wheelies do you do?
They make the oil go low tide.
My theory is just top up the oil or keep the front wheel on terra firma.

 

[tonered]

How many wheelies do you do?
They make the oil go low tide.
My theory is just top up the oil or keep the front wheel on terra firma.

I saw that on an episode of Superbikes (a totally stupid show). The co-host was riding wheelies on a Hyper. The host said it was going to spew oil. Incredulously, the co-host rode it until it spewed (out the breather I presume).

One thing to be concerned about is the Nikasil (sp?) cylinder coating. The re-honing may remove it.

Personally, I have to put a few ounces of oil in every 2,000mi. I use M1 15w-50 (auto formula) and change it every 6k.

Good luck.

 

[Bikenigma]

Check your crankcase breather. Big V twins have to breath or this will push oil past your oil control rings.

 

[Derwood]

Thanks fellas ,
No wheelies Rossco , I fell off to many times in the dirt to carry that over to the road. hospital sucks. I do miss my wheelies though .
No oil on bike or floor .oil changed every 3000mi . I will check on the leakdown test. I was more wondering what oil Ducati in the states recommends to use and run in the bikes from new.
Yes I was worried about loosing the nicosol as well .
Are they forged or cast pistons, a meccanic said to me that forged pistons can use more oil, but that much?
I will ask if they checked the breather system Macca thanks.
Last time I ran in the bike I flogged it up and down the hills to load it.

 

[mario65]

Have an 03 ST4s with 12k miles. Never burns any oil. At oil changes its pretty much full. I ride it like its fast.

 

[SS904]

I don't seem to use much oil at all. I'm sure it does use some amount, but I'm 2Kish into my normal 3K oil change interval and it's still showing in the site glass between the middle and high oil mark. Pretty much where I left in when I changed it last. I do remember adding to it once or twice since I've had the bike (going on three years), but not recently. Maybe it was while I lived in south east Virginia and would end up stuck in stop and go traffic during those wonderful 100 degree 90% humidity days we'd get around August... I've used different brands of 20/50 synthetic oil in the bike. No real difference in them as far as I can tell. I used to commute on it 100 miles a day pretty much all year long. Since moving and a taking a new job last year, I now only ride on the weekends and it get put away for the winter. Not much riding. The point is it used to be ridden just about every day. Highway speeds all week and then ridden pretty hard most weekends. Maybe that helped? It is coming up on 24K and I bought it with something like 3.5K on it. No idea how it was broken in.

Have you noticed oil coming from your airbox drain? Inside of the airbox wet with oil? How about bluish smoke from the exhaust? The oil must be going somewhere.

 

[cb4265]

Try this break in method for controversy,

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

My ST2 has run the Silkolene 4t Racing 10w-40 oil since first oil change, and it doesn't use oil noticeably, I have never topped it up and it looks full by the window indicators.

Craig

 

[Derwood]

I checked with the dealer, the crankcase breather is definitely clear and working thanks. They did a light hone and say nicosal still intact.
The bike would blow bluish smoke under hard acceleration at 6000rpm and up .
The engine is back together again so We will see . I pick it up this weekend. We decided to break in on motol mineral oil 4T , hope the rings bed in better then the synthetic oil.

Thanks for the 'moto man ' thread Craig it makes sense to me , That was my next question . Any other theories on breaking in would be appreciated.

Thanks again all for your help and time fellas .
Derwood

 

[JPSpinfisher]

Break In

Well, I just read in moto magazine ,can't remember which one (I was in supermarket)the guy writing article visited ducati factory.He witnesed new bike being broke in (I think on dyno).FULL THROTTLE runs through the gears!No easy break in at the factory!This blows me away,would have thought easy run at first .If I had new bike I would also rev through gears,vary speed,etc.,in spite of what factory does.Jim.

 

[Derwood]

Thanks for the feed back guys , I am going down the track of spank it hard and good. ( I am talking about the Bike )
I will keep you posted but it may take some time to get the miles up to confirm a result.
Derwood

 

[Corse1]

I did track day with only 1000kms on the clock and gave it a hard time. now 14000km and uses no oil between changes...or not anything visible that requires top up.

In fact when I first got the bike I remember having to top up the oil but nothing for the last two changes. Important to not lug the engine at low rev's. Its far better for it to be up in the revs when running in. Apart from the track day I followed the recommended graduated rev limit for the first 2000km and always varied the revs when riding.

New Zealand hilly twisty roads are ideal!!