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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have read every single thread pertaining to this but I have yet to see one thing addressed, or if it was I missed it. seems the earlier models of Ducatis don't have the purge valve, its just a vacuum line that T's out.

I have a 2016 and the long hose that plugs into the throttle bodies there is what's called(judging by the schematics) a purge valve with an electrical connection.

When I remove the whole vacuum line with the purge valve inline, what happens if I just unplug the purge valve and pull the whole line out, will I get a fault code ? Or do I just keep the whole T line with the purge valve intact and use a length of hose as an extension and cap the end ?

I would experiment but my bike is in pieces in my dining room right now due to winter teardown.
 

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My 15 just had vacuum lines... no purge valve. Or if there is a purge valve (I'm thinking maybe there is)... it's not in the part of the piping that gets removed.
 

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I'm curious what's the advantage of removing the evaporative emissions canister...other than a slight weight savings? I can't see the canister causing a performance reduction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It doesnt really do anything and its an ugly protrusion on an otherwise beautiful bike, thats it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Damn of course i missed that thread, thanks.
 

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If the evap canister gets clogged, it can cause all sorts of difficult to diagnose engine performance problems. This wasn't such a big deal on the old style, passive vapor canisters, but with the DVT engines Ducati started using active evap systems, where the computer is expecting certain things to happen when that purge valve is opened. If those things don't happen due to a clog, you can get rough idle, seemingly random engine shutdown, etc.

They're fine, as long as they're fine. I wouldn't remove one if it was working correctly, but they are a largely unnecessary complexity that has questionable environmental impact on such a small fuel tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Does anyone know anything about the fuel tank breather line ?

This is the hose starts from the right side of the fuel tank and routes down into the evap canister.

I will now run this breather hose along the frame or something, but when "breathing' it will (I guess) allow more air in to the fuel tank due to the canister not being there restricting/metering the air flow.

If anybody has gone this direction with the canister delete, did it lead to any faults/problems?

I could have done this and learned through trial and error if I lived in a normal part of the world instead of the Northeast, but my bike is in my dining room and it's not possible to test ride or even start at this time. Just seeing if I can everything sorted so no problems happen when it's time to ride again...In 4 friggin months :)
 

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I was looking into removing the canister from my bike, but after reading this thread and the one linked by ebrew, I'm just going to leave the eyesore in place until it causes problems :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I was looking into removing the canister from my bike, but after reading this thread and the one linked by ebrew, I'm just going to leave the eyesore in place until it causes problems :p

I don't blame you..Every winter I take a bike apart and just look for things to do to it that don't need to be done.
 

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I took mine off. I followed several posts here and from memory, did this: Took off the evap cannister, ended up with a length of hose I think that originally came off the bottom of the unit. Used that to extend the tank vent out the hole in the bash plate that the other hoses use. I then put a screw as a stopper in the tube that leads up to the tee that goes to each cylinder. That's it. No problems, no lights, dealer had no comment. I have an airhorn there now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That's what I'm thinking..Ill just extend the breather hose and run it with all the other hoses through the bash plate.
 

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Can someone tell me if the 2 hoses that connect to the throttle bodies are before or after the butterfly?
I'm gonna guess after the butterfly, which is why if the canister blocks up it can cause uneven idle.
Anyways if that's the case, and if the canister is removed and the valve left in situ then there is the chance that when the valve opens the engine can suck unfiltered air.
I would imagine blocking the nipples on the throttle bodies, but leaving the valve in place to trick the ECU, should do the trick.

OR

Gut the can, insert some sort of washable filter, and clean it once in a while.

Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Can someone tell me if the 2 hoses that connect to the throttle bodies are before or after the butterfly?
I'm gonna guess after the butterfly, which is why if the canister blocks up it can cause uneven idle.
Anyways if that's the case, and if the canister is removed and the valve left in situ then there is the chance that when the valve opens the engine can suck unfiltered air.
I would imagine blocking the nipples on the throttle bodies, but leaving the valve in place to trick the ECU, should do the trick.

OR

Gut the can, insert some sort of washable filter, and clean it once in a while.

Thoughts?
Are you talking about the purge valve ?

If so there is a T fitting, one hose goes into 1 port and the other goes into the other port. Another hose routes outside the frame and goes into the purge valve. A hose goes from the purge valve into the canister.

I took all the hoses and canister off. I am going to plug the ports with a silicone cap rather than unscrew things and put a bolt into the ports. I am leaving the purge valve connected to the wiring harness and will plug both ends of the valve with a cap. Eventually I will put my battery back in and see if I get any codes turning the engine on but not starting it up, just waiting for the silicone caps right now.

As far as gutting the canister it would probably work, it's charcoal in there I think. Not sure if the thing is even serviceable, and when I shook my canister I heard 1 little bead bouncing around..A video I watched showed the guy shake the canister and it sounded like a bunch of beads rattling around, vastly different than mine.

Like I said, I am doing this for nothing but a cleaner look, if I couldn't see it I wouldn't even mess with it. My bike was hard to start at times, but I just figured that was due to a high compression engine. Never had it stall on me either. Only problem I had with this bike is a hose clamp came off because the Duc tech failed to tighten it down after warranty work on the same hose..dumped coolant all over my leg and tire, lucky I didn't crash on an exit ramp.
 

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Are you talking about the purge valve ?

If so there is a T fitting, one hose goes into 1 port and the other goes into the other port. Another hose routes outside the frame and goes into the purge valve. A hose goes from the purge valve into the canister.

I took all the hoses and canister off. I am going to plug the ports with a silicone cap rather than unscrew things and put a bolt into the ports. I am leaving the purge valve connected to the wiring harness and will plug both ends of the valve with a cap. Eventually I will put my battery back in and see if I get any codes turning the engine on but not starting it up, just waiting for the silicone caps right now.

As far as gutting the canister it would probably work, it's charcoal in there I think. Not sure if the thing is even serviceable, and when I shook my canister I heard 1 little bead bouncing around..A video I watched showed the guy shake the canister and it sounded like a bunch of beads rattling around, vastly different than mine.

Like I said, I am doing this for nothing but a cleaner look, if I couldn't see it I wouldn't even mess with it. My bike was hard to start at times, but I just figured that was due to a high compression engine. Never had it stall on me either. Only problem I had with this bike is a hose clamp came off because the Duc tech failed to tighten it down after warranty work on the same hose..dumped coolant all over my leg and tire, lucky I didn't crash on an exit ramp.
Yeah, what you're doing is exactly what I reckon will work best.
if these are like car charcoal boxes, should sound like it's full of pebbles.

My bike can be hard to start at times too, but I have had it stall once or twice. Also - Once in a blue moon it won't start at all and I have to give it a bit of throttle to get it to bite, like it's an old carby.
I also ride mine everyday, at least 60Kms. (it's my only mode of transport)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I will pull mine when a bit warmer out in the garage
Brrrrrr
Mine is parked in the dining room for the winter lol

Since the riding season is relatively short here in the Northeast, I don't like doing any work except oil changes during riding season. Something usually goes wrong and the last thing I want to do is be working on the bike on a Saturday when it's 80 degrees out.
 

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Man I feel for you yanks, I ride all year round! It does get a bit nippy in the winter, but no where near zero'C.
Plus this bike has heated hand grips, I've never had those before!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Man I feel for you yanks, I ride all year round! It does get a bit nippy in the winter, but no where near zero'C.
Plus this bike has heated hand grips, I've never had those before!
I was born and raised in California, didn't get my first car until I was 35..Rode everyday all year on various bikes...Massachusetts, not so much now.
 
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