I tried to seach for Engine Paint in quotes and still got everything for engine and paint. Has anybody painted their engines and what did you use? looking to stay close to stock color for my 94 SP. Thanks for all of the great information lately, my bike is slowly getting there...
Engine Paint
-
Hey Everyone! Enter your bike HERE to be a part of this months Bike of the Month Challenge!
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Joined
·
2,887 Posts
If you can find it local to you, VHT (Very High Temp) in a spray can is outstanding stuff and matches quite well. It's a little bit brighter, but it looks like you dropped a new motor instead of painting. It heat cures simply by running the motor. You do have to use their primer before applying the Silver, but it's a great system that I keep stocked at all times.
Joined
·
792 Posts
I'd suggest POR-15 products; I've not used their engine paint, but I have used several other products and they've all been outstanding.
http://www.por15.com/Engine-Enamel/products/7/
The non-spray paints all flow extremely well.
http://www.por15.com/Engine-Enamel/products/7/
The non-spray paints all flow extremely well.
Joined
·
2,887 Posts
Joined
·
404 Posts
I'll second the recommendation for VHT. I've used the stuff for decades on everything from big block MOPAR drag motors to VW Bug motors to Harley motors to Porsche flat sixes to lawn mowers. Lots of colors, lasts forever, wards off any and all fluids and chemicals. Great stuff, even if you can't find and "exact" match.
Joined
·
404 Posts
Bare, sandblasted aluminum gets dirty very quickly and is impossible to clean again once it does. It's very porous and stains easily. It's better to seal it with something. That, and it often takes on a bit of a beige tone after sandblasting, depending on the media used. Looks kinda funky.
Just a follow up. After getting the engine soda blasted I painted it with VHT primer (part code SP148), I then tried the VHT Universal Silver Engine Enamel (SP127) for the top coat but it came out a bit bright. Ended up using VHT Nu-Cast Aluminium Engine Enamel (SP995) which looks much better. I have used this for the block and heads.
Not sure if I should put Motor Brite Clear Engine Enamel (part code SP29) over the top?
Any thoughts anyone?
For the Barrels and rocker covers: I painted them with VHT primer (SP148) and then used VHT Barrel Satin Black (SP906). The specific Barrel paint has the same temperature rating as VHT Engine Enamel but according to our local rep is harder and resists stone chips better) than the standard Engine Enamel. The satin finish came out a bit too glossy for my liking so I finished these off with a top coat of Flat Black Engine Enamel part code (SP130)
After painting I baked everything in the oven at 100 degrees for 30 minutes. Without this step the paint stays pretty soft. Running the engine for 30 minutes would have the same effect but I wanted to cure the paint first so it didn't suffer to much when reassembling the engine.
Not sure if I should put Motor Brite Clear Engine Enamel (part code SP29) over the top?
Any thoughts anyone?
For the Barrels and rocker covers: I painted them with VHT primer (SP148) and then used VHT Barrel Satin Black (SP906). The specific Barrel paint has the same temperature rating as VHT Engine Enamel but according to our local rep is harder and resists stone chips better) than the standard Engine Enamel. The satin finish came out a bit too glossy for my liking so I finished these off with a top coat of Flat Black Engine Enamel part code (SP130)
After painting I baked everything in the oven at 100 degrees for 30 minutes. Without this step the paint stays pretty soft. Running the engine for 30 minutes would have the same effect but I wanted to cure the paint first so it didn't suffer to much when reassembling the engine.
Although I don't have a SS, we have just been using various VHT paints in the Black. We have used their Case Paint, their Barrel Paint and will use their flame proof paint for the exhaust. Once sprayed, parts got baked in an oven for an hour which pretty much gets rid of the smell. Hopefully it will heat cure further when the bike actually gets up and running - still some time away!
Joined
·
2,887 Posts
You may not like the results of using the clear over the Aluminum color, it takes away from the flat, natural finish and tends to look 'painted' if you will. Just the color coat by itself is really very durable and holds up well against normal cleaning agents and the occasional stronger stuff too.
The softness does go away after a good curing, just takes time like you and 748girl said.
Joined
·
2,601 Posts
Where did you find the SP148-primer? I've been everywhere locally I can think of and came up empty. I'd order it if I HAVE to (and wait 5 days), but I wanna paint this thing after 6 hours of prep work!
UPDATE - After talking with VHT's tech support on the phone, they advised me to use DE-1612 (Duplicolor Engine paint/primer). Summit stocks it, and now I'm priming the cases
UPDATE - After talking with VHT's tech support on the phone, they advised me to use DE-1612 (Duplicolor Engine paint/primer). Summit stocks it, and now I'm priming the cases
Many thanks that's exactly what I wanted to know.
Joined
·
1,713 Posts
Great thread of information, thanks to all. I have an engine case paint issue where rodents moved in and evidently peed for some period of time. I will use the VHT Cast Aluminum and white primer per the sage advise in this thread. Question: as I dont want to dismantle the engine to paint the whole case, how to surface prep this patch job. I have to make sure the acidic urine is all removed prior to primer application. Simply use strong dish soap solution? Or if I use an engine de-greaser, will its residue inhibit the bond of the primer?
Thanks,
Thanks,
Attachments
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Join the discussion
