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Engine oil change challenges

1201 Views 9 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  DaveAu
I decided to change engine oil and filter myself on my (new to me) 2011 Multistrada 1200S and bought K&N 153 oil filter and 5 litres of Motul 4100 15W50 synthetic oil. Firstly, previous owner did the 48000km service on the bike at about 46000km and I got it at 49500 and oil is pretty black :confused: and the level at cold was just at lower level on the sight glasss, hence I decided to change it.

I removed all the protection (and the centre stand, what a dumb thing to do designing it) and proceeded to open up the oil pan drain plug and some idiot tightened it so bad that I broke 5mm alen wrench and cut my skin pretty deep馃槱. Removing the filter was hard too but managed without braking anything or hurting myself. When I attempted to remove four countersunk screws for oil screen plate, three came off reasonably easy, fourth one would not budge as it looks it is stripped :confused: and would require extra work to remove and replace with a new one. When I removed other three I found some stuff like a sealant around the head of one of the screws. Is that normal? I hope I will not have leaks after this oil change..... (I've never had on BMWs that I used to own for many years). Owner's manual states oil capacity is 4.1 litres but I managed to fill to half way point on the sight glass with 3 litres only. I guess once I start it, filter may take some but the difference seem excessive.

Are oil changes usually resulting in leaks and the need to over tighten everything? I hope that last person was just in bad mood when doing this work...
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That's a bunch of weird stuff from previous idiot mechanics. Unless you want a project, I'd just leave the screen plate in place. The quantity is strange but may just be from no prefilling the filter. I always have to add a bit once I run the motor after a change.
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Don't you love used bikes and poor designs mixed together?

No 4L is too much oil as mentioned drop in 3 and run it a bit then take the 4th and use it to set he level with bike upright and not on the center stand. Should take about 3.5qt on average.

IIRC the torque spec is 11Nm for the oil filter (I use 11ftlbs) , too loose and they leak too tight and you hate removing them. Tip: always loosen the filter on a warmed up motor it will be easier also why they leak as they get looser when hot.

Once you get it sorted you will have no issues.
notch the rear of your bash plate so you can leave the center stand on, there are tutorials for this.
Yes to sealer on the sump screen plate, not too much.
Dont damage the sump screen when removing it a o-ring holds it in place to carefully pull it down.
It's funny - on my Hyperstrada I thought "there's no other Ducati this silly to work on" as you have to pull the fuel tank for so many basic procedures it's not even funny. And then I got the Multi - removing the center stand for an oil change? 馃ぁ

That being said here's one of the threads that was mentioned. I generally keep vehicles pretty stock but this looks like a is a worthwhile mod!

I have a 2012 PP and do not need to remove the center stand for oil changes. Not sure why it is required on a 2011. Am I missing something ?

ETA ... I do not remove my belly pan. It easily tilts down when I remove the front fasteners and then I clean the oil off the pan.

Good luck with your multi !!
On my 2011 Mutli I modified the belly pan by turning the two forward holes into slots. remove back nut , wiggle pan up and down and off it comes. To reinstall get the slots lined up with the bolts and slide back into place, replace the rear nut, job done. Takes 30 seconds and the is no mess in the bottom of the pan. Silly design, easily remedied.
[service] at about 46000km and I got it at 49500 and oil is pretty black
level at cold was just at lower level on the sight glass
and some idiot tightened it so bad
I hope you got a good deal, as I am not sure how much you can trust the previous owner's work. Black oil after 3,500 km is not a good sign and being low on the site glass is also not encouraging. Rather then assume they did everything perfectly, it is probably safer to assume the previous owner was not as competent as they perhaps they thought they were and perhaps they might have exaggerated a bit to get the sale. Start again from scratch. Do a full oil change now (with cheap oil) and in a few hundred to a thousand miles (300-1,600km) change the oil and filter again. Think of it as flushing out anything that needs flushing :) . If you can, have the oil tested, looking for excessive wear or combustion products. Best case, the PO didn't actually change the oil quite as recently as they suggested so the oil was lower and blacker then you would expect with the milage, (which means questioning everything else they say they did), worst case, piston rings are letting stuff pass both ways that they shouldn't.
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So I changed the oil and filter. No leaks after tightening to prescribed torque. The gorilla of a mechanic who did the last oil change made me think I will have leaks. I also cut the belly pan slot so I do not have to remove the centrestand next time I do oil change.
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The sump screen plate originally came with sealant from the factory. Ducati later sold a gasket for this. The four screws , made of very soft ,easily stripped hex heads were installed with red locktite.
:LOL: Ducati must have been listening to forums so they designed an excellent access system on the V4 Multi.....though why they went with a paper cartridge instead of a spin-on filter escapes me.

The hardest part of my oil change is winding three screws out to remove the oil filter cap....... ;).

No oil leaks........ (y) BMW's aren't the only machines that don't leak oil.....though there's probably a few owners who might admit to one or two after a beer or three...... :ROFLMAO:.

I concur, double check the PO's work for peace of mind.
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