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M - loom was involved, so who knows.
Well, obviously it is your call but I have been stranded along a road late at night a few times with electrical problems and I would not personally ride around on a bike that might have a bad connection somewhere in the loom.

I've also done the 1-mile push in full leathers along the shoulder of the freeway in 95F weather (wondering which texting cage driver was going to take me out). That was my Ducati E900 with an intermittent issue with the main junction from the regulator to the battery which had the feed to the rest of the loom running right alongside it in the same connector. When things lined up it would go 100% dead.

To test it should only take a couple of minutes and you could actually just use a 9V Duracell to test for the draw.

If you do find that the reg is good, DM me your address and I will gratis you the parts to run the reg directly back to the battery. I have tons around and would like to see you be solid with the electrical system. You do give up the little red charge light when you do that.

Best of luck with it.

Thanks,

M./
 

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2016 Hyperstrada 939, 93 900ss, 2017 CRF250L RALLY, 2003 F650GS DAKAR, 1993 KLR250, 1986 HONDA TLR20
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I have read through the thread here and wanted to add some info relevant to checking parasitic draw.
the way to check with the amp meter in series with the battery cable is correct. I just want to suggest that you clip the leads on before disconnecting the cable from the battery there fore the power has never been disconnected. this will apply to any year bike but more so on computer controlled vehicles. some circuits may have a power down sequence by disconnecting the battery you start that cycle again. I doubt the regulator in question has such circuits but it only takes a minute to do it this way.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
I've decided to return this unit and either get a directly wired Electrosport or see if I can find another brand that will work. Just too much time and effort invested to date to settle for an imperfect solution.

M, thank you for that very kind offer. Hopefully "Plan B" will obviate my accepting it but I appreciate it just the same.

Thanks - B
 

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contact "[email protected] roadstercycle.com" and get a modern voltage regulator- FH020AA. no worries, no problems.

Fred
 

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Discussion Starter #65
New Electrosport ESR510 (that's the direct-to-battery equivalent of the ESR515 I had no luck with) installed, 14.68V at idle (after a minute or two - reg/rec seems to need to "warm up" - was barely above battery voltage at first but then climbed steadily) and NO PARASITIC DRAW!!

Thank you all for your support - electrical, moral, and spiritual!

Now for that oil leak....
 

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Whooo Hooo glad you got it figured out
 

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New Electrosport ESR510 (that's the direct-to-battery equivalent of the ESR515 I had no luck with) installed, 14.68V at idle (after a minute or two - reg/rec seems to need to "warm up" - was barely above battery voltage at first but then climbed steadily) and NO PARASITIC DRAW!!

Thank you all for your support - electrical, moral, and spiritual!

Now for that oil leak....
When the battery starts the bike, it can be drained as much as 20-40% depending on a host of variables (temp, the wear of starter motor etc.).

So, right after the bike starts, the regulator has to recharge the battery. That's why it seems like it needs to warm up - get going, it is actually doing what it is supposed to do but that is invisible to the rider.

HTH.

Thanks,

M./
 

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Discussion Starter #68 (Edited)
That's interesting M, thanks. I'm curious - I know starting depletes the battery and the charging system has to restore that deficit, but why would the initial voltage be lower in that case? - the battery is down, sure, but the alternator/reg/rec should be pumping out voltage at a "normal" rate, I should think, not a reduced one. Indeed, my "lay" experience with bikes with an onboard voltmeter is the charging voltage starts out HIGHER for just that reason, and then goes down as the deficit is made up and the system is simply trying to meet the current operating needs of the bike.

I'm learning here and this is great so thanks for your indulgence.

PS - the unit I had before this was steadier in terms of output - 14.5 on the button from the moment the motor caught, when idling, and regardless of revs, as high as I dared without a load on the engine (maybe 5-6K rpm). A bit eerie actually but FWIW.
 
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