[JackN]

Hi guys, it's been awhile since I've posted. I hope everyone is doing well under our current circumstances.
So, I did something stupid today. I tried to start my GT for the first time in quite awhile, over a year I'd say. Anyway, the battery wasn't strong enough to turn the engine over. I decided to try jump starting it with my car. Unfortunately, I connected the jumper cables incorrectly and crossed the polarity between the bike and the car. Now the bike is totally dead, acting like there is no battery installed. I obviously fried something electrical, but there is no visible damage. I would appreciate any input on where to look or how to troubleshoot.

 

[Strega]

Check for a blown main fuse. Your Owners Manual will guide you.

 

[Punch]

Your bike will have a 59M or 5AM ECU.
When you connect it reverse polarity it blows the normal battery negative supply and the ECU ceases to function.
Not all is lost though.
Not sure where the 3 pin diagnostic connector is on your model, but it is usually under the seat.
It is shown in the attached image from motor-talk.de.
Simply permanently connect a wire from the centre pin to battery negative and you will be back in business.

 

[JackN]

Check for a blown main fuse. Your Owners Manual will guide you.

I checked all the fuses. They were all fine.

 

[JackN]

Your bike will have a 59M or 5AM ECU.
When you connect it reverse polarity it blows the normal battery negative supply and the ECU ceases to function.
Not all is lost though.
Not sure where the 3 pin diagnostic connector is on your model, but it is usually under the seat.
It is shown in the attached image from motor-talk.de.
Simply permanently connect a wire from the centre pin to battery negative and you will be back in business.

View attachment 981667

Thank you. I'll give it a try in the morning.

 

[Punch]

Once you confirm it works, then you can buy the correct connector for a more secure connection.
It is known as a Fiat 3 pin connector. They must be available as companies like Lonelec fit them to their diagnostic cables/adapters.

 

[Punch]

Found it on Corsa-technic.com
It is a Tyco/AMP part.
The application list includes diagnostic and side stand.

Tyco/AMP Superseal 1.5 Series Motorsport Connectors - Corsa Technic

Motorsport electrical products: OEM and hard to find terminals and connector kits, wiring, harness supplies, tooling, and sensors for modern and vintage motorcycle, automotive applications. Easy online shopping, low cost shipping options, to expedited around the world. We accept Paypal and...

www.corsa-technic.com

 

[JackN]

So good news and bad news. Turns out I had blown the main fuse. I did not realize it was seperate from the other fuse block. Replacing that fuse has the bike back to acting exactly as it did prior to my first attempt at jumping the battery. When I turn the key on the dash acts normal and I hear the fuel pump cycle. When I push the start button, I get a clicking sound out of the motor but it does not crank. This is exactly what it did before I tried jump starting and reversed polarity.
I tried jumping the diagnostic plug to ground as Punch suggested. It seems to make no difference?
I did disconnect the tired old battery to eliminate that variable. Assuming the only damage I did yesterday was to blow the main fuse, it seems I may have a starter problem?

 

[Punch]

The clicking usually means the battery is stuffed.
Do the lights etc. also flash on and off in time with the clicking - if so, usually mens the battery.

Withe the bike on you can also bypass the saet button by shorting the start solenoid terminals the crank the engine.

 

[JackN]

The clicking usually means the battery is stuffed.
Do the lights etc. also flash on and off in time with the clicking - if so, usually mens the battery.

Withe the bike on you can also bypass the saet button by shorting the start solenoid terminals the crank the engine.

When I say it clicks, I mean it clicks once for each time that I press the start button. It is not a rapid fire clicking. I removed the questionable battery and used a battery that I know to be good with the same result. I did not try shorting the solenoid.

 

[Punch]

Do you know where the clicking is coming from.
E.g. put your finger on the solenoid to feel if it is clicking.

After trying the solenoid terminal shorting if it cranks then the problem is further bck.
Do you have a multimeter?
If so, on the 20V dc setting.
Red probe to the solenoid terminal that connects to the starter motor and the black to battery negative.
Then press the start button to see if the solenoid is closing.

 

[JackN]

Do you know where the clicking is coming from.
E.g. put your finger on the solenoid to feel if it is clicking.

After trying the solenoid terminal shorting if it cranks then the problem is further bck.
Do you have a multimeter?
If so, on the 20V dc setting.
Red probe to the solenoid terminal that connects to the starter motor and the black to battery negative.
Then press the start button to see if the solenoid is closing.

Thanks again for the advice Punch. I'll give it a try tomorrow.

 

[JackN]

Do you know where the clicking is coming from.
E.g. put your finger on the solenoid to feel if it is clicking.

After trying the solenoid terminal shorting if it cranks then the problem is further bck.
Do you have a multimeter?
If so, on the 20V dc setting.
Red probe to the solenoid terminal that connects to the starter motor and the black to battery negative.
Then press the start button to see if the solenoid is closing.

The solenoid is clicking. Can feel it as you suggested. Doesnt seem to be letting power through. I ran power directly to the starter and it cranked, so it seems like it may be the solenoid or something further upstream. The meter did not show any voltage at the starter when I pushed the button.

 

[Punch]

In your direct power was by bridging the contacts on the solenoid, then power to the solenoid is OK.
Next test, but first check for corrosion in the connector from the harness to the "pigtail" to the solenoid coil.
Disconnect the wiring to the solenoid coil.
From the wiring diagram I have the coil negative is Black/blue and the positive is red/black.
The red/black is powered by fuse 1 and the blue/black is taken to ground/battery negative by body pin 1 one the ECU.
Connect a wire from the solenoid connector that connects to red/black (the colour will be different in that short wiring) to battery positive.
Make sure you do it at the solenoid first so you do not risk shorting the battery positive to ground.
Then connect a wire into the terminal that connects to blue/black.
Now with the other end of that wire, touch it on battery negative.
If the bike cranks, then the solenoid is OK and the problem is either in the positive or negative to the solenoid.
If it does not crank then the solenoid is stuffed.

To test the positive.
Leave the wire in the solenoid coil connector connected directly to battery positive.
Now connect a wire from the coil negative connector pigtail to the bikes harness connector blue/black.
Bike on, press the starter. If it cranks then the issue is in the positive to the solenoid coil.
If no go, then test the negative.
Remove the temporary wire that is connected to battery positive, from the battery first.
Connect a wire from the harness connector red/black to the correct terminal in the solenoid pigtail.
Connect a wire into the solenoid pigtail that connects to blue/black.
They ignition needs to be on as the power via fuse 1 needs the key on.
Now with that wire from blue/black connect it to battery negative.
If it cranks then the issue is somewhere in the negative in the harness, a connector or even a shitty ECU earth.
Can't help you more than that.

 

[JackN]

In your direct power was by bridging the contacts on the solenoid, then power to the solenoid is OK.
Next test, but first check for corrosion in the connector from the harness to the "pigtail" to the solenoid coil.
Disconnect the wiring to the solenoid coil.
From the wiring diagram I have the coil negative is Black/blue and the positive is red/black.
The red/black is powered by fuse 1 and the blue/black is taken to ground/battery negative by body pin 1 one the ECU.
Connect a wire from the solenoid connector that connects to red/black (the colour will be different in that short wiring) to battery positive.
Make sure you do it at the solenoid first so you do not risk shorting the battery positive to ground.
Then connect a wire into the terminal that connects to blue/black.
Now with the other end of that wire, touch it on battery negative.
If the bike cranks, then the solenoid is OK and the problem is either in the positive or negative to the solenoid.
If it does not crank then the solenoid is stuffed.

To test the positive.
Leave the wire in the solenoid coil connector connected directly to battery positive.
Now connect a wire from the coil negative connector pigtail to the bikes harness connector blue/black.
Bike on, press the starter. If it cranks then the issue is in the positive to the solenoid coil.
If no go, then test the negative.
Remove the temporary wire that is connected to battery positive, from the battery first.
Connect a wire from the harness connector red/black to the correct terminal in the solenoid pigtail.
Connect a wire into the solenoid pigtail that connects to blue/black.
They ignition needs to be on as the power via fuse 1 needs the key on.
Now with that wire from blue/black connect it to battery negative.
If it cranks then the issue is somewhere in the negative in the harness, a connector or even a shitty ECU earth.
Can't help you more than that.

Punch, thank you so much for all of your input and help. I will work through the tests that you've described. Unfortunately it will take me some time to get to it. I am in the process moving. The reason I wanted to start the bike in the first place was to make it easier to load into my truck. So, once I'm settled I'll work through your suggestions step by step. I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

[JackN]

In your direct power was by bridging the contacts on the solenoid, then power to the solenoid is OK.
Next test, but first check for corrosion in the connector from the harness to the "pigtail" to the solenoid coil.
Disconnect the wiring to the solenoid coil.
From the wiring diagram I have the coil negative is Black/blue and the positive is red/black.
The red/black is powered by fuse 1 and the blue/black is taken to ground/battery negative by body pin 1 one the ECU.
Connect a wire from the solenoid connector that connects to red/black (the colour will be different in that short wiring) to battery positive.
Make sure you do it at the solenoid first so you do not risk shorting the battery positive to ground.
Then connect a wire into the terminal that connects to blue/black.
Now with the other end of that wire, touch it on battery negative.
If the bike cranks, then the solenoid is OK and the problem is either in the positive or negative to the solenoid.
If it does not crank then the solenoid is stuffed.

To test the positive.
Leave the wire in the solenoid coil connector connected directly to battery positive.
Now connect a wire from the coil negative connector pigtail to the bikes harness connector blue/black.
Bike on, press the starter. If it cranks then the issue is in the positive to the solenoid coil.
If no go, then test the negative.
Remove the temporary wire that is connected to battery positive, from the battery first.
Connect a wire from the harness connector red/black to the correct terminal in the solenoid pigtail.
Connect a wire into the solenoid pigtail that connects to blue/black.
They ignition needs to be on as the power via fuse 1 needs the key on.
Now with that wire from blue/black connect it to battery negative.
If it cranks then the issue is somewhere in the negative in the harness, a connector or even a shitty ECU earth.
Can't help you more than that.

I did not bridge the solenoid contacts. I applied power directly to the starter.

 

[Punch]

Have fun moving!
Bridging the contacts is a test of the cabling, but also a test that the starter motor is ok.

 

[JackN]

Thanks Punch. And thanks again for all of your help. I found some time today to mess with the bike a little more. Turns out after all the testing, the problem was just a weak battery all along. I knew the bike battery was shot, so I was using my truck battery with cables to do the testing. Even though it starts my truck just fine, it wouldn't crank the bike without first starting the truck. So, I replaced the bike's battery and all is well. No jumper needed from the diagnostic plug either. Starts and runs great. Seems I got away with making that polarity mistake.

Have fun moving!
Bridging the contacts is a test of the cabling, but also a test that the starter motor is ok.