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Discussion Starter #1
I know this was covered in full detail in the old forums, but I don't think I can access them anymore. Here's my problem:

1998 916 Senna

- I only have a few months on the battery and keep a charger on it.
- Still have difficulty starting it at times.
- I took it to Coleman Powersports in Northern Virginia and asked them to check to see if I needed a new battery.
- A mechanic put a meter to the battery with the bike off and the battery was reading good around 12v.
- After starting the bike and while running, the meter was reading 0v.
- Appears the bike is running off of the battery exclusively once it's running.
- He said they needed to do a full electrical check to diagnose the real problem on it. He said the best thing to do was park it until it was fixed and that it could die at any moment.
- I rode 25 miles each way to this dealer without the bike dying. Then parked it and put it back on the charger.

I wanted to see if anyone had any ideas before I drop $180 on a electrical test for my bike. Maybe there's more I can check to try to diagnose the problem further. Or should I just let them run the test and pay the money?

Bad Power Regulator?

Thanks in advance,

- John
916Senna
 

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Yes, sounds like a bad Regulator - have you checked the connector between Regulator and alternator?

$180 to test it?, after checking the connector, I'd get a new regulator - probably cost less than $180 and almost certainly the problem, even if you don't need it, it's worth having a spare or you could sell it to someone who does need one (plenty do) and get most of, if not all of your money back.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, they wanted $180 to do a full electrical diagnostic check on the bike.
I didn't check the connector between the Regulator and the Alternator. I'm in the middle of a household move so I have limited access to tools, etc.

It seems to be an easy do-it-yourself replacement for the power regulator.

Anyone have advice for where I should purchase a new power regulator from?
I'm in the Northern Virginia/DC/Maryland area. Or I can get it online, if there's any recommendations for websites.

thx,

- John
1998 916 Senna
 

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Chilehead
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Also, it's a good idea to relocate it for better airflow, as it's the heat that seems to kill them.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I read before about the regulators needing to be relocated.

Since we have a new forum and I can't find the old posts, what's a good spot for the regulator?

Any ideas, on a side note, why my radiator fan is not turning on? I checked it and the fan works when hooked directly to the battery. Could the regulator have caused this to malfunction as well? During the summer months, I noticed the fan wasn't turning on. This was around the same time I noticed what is now problems with my regulator. The bike idoesn't get ridden as often as I'd like to, due to frequent business trips.
 

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Chilehead
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On my st2, I've got it in the air scoop below the headlight. Haven't lost one since relocating (lost two before, one under guarantee, the other I paid for).

If your fan is also dead, perhaps you've just got some general corrosion problems.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The fan works well when I have it hooked directly to the battery. So it seems the motor on the fan is fine.

I also checked the fuses and they're all ok. I even changed them just in case.

I just have no idea what else to do to in order to fix the radiator fan, since the motor seems fine on it.
 

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I understand that there's a company that make aftermarket regulators that some say are better than the Ducati ones, IIRC it is 'Electrex' or something like that - I read it on here so someone will be along soon with the details :)

But it could just be the connectors burnt/corroded, mine did this and since replacing the plugs has been fine, although I was lucky and caught it before any damage was done.



;)
 

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I had a the same issue. After checking all connections, and re-routing wiring more efficiently the bike started right up. I checked the volts of the battery while bringing the rpm to 5000, volts read 13.8v - this shows that the altenator and regulator are working. Any reading below 12v or above 15.5 @5000rpm would be a altenator or regulator issue. Below is a web site to getting a good regulator, better priced than oem and easy to install. That 180.00 diagnostic is steep, and bittersweet when they end up telling you its the regulator.Good Luck.

http://www.electrosport.com/issues.street/ISS_DUC_916.html
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just what I was looking for. Thanks for all the great info!

Now I have to figure out how to get the radiator fan to turn on again before the hot summer months return.

- John
1998 916 Senna
 

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As has been said.

Check the white connectors coming from generator to regulator. Those fry on almost all the old one-phase bikes. Mine did and i had EXACTLY the same problem as you did.

If the connectors are okey, then get a volt meter and do some wire tests. I found a problem on friends bike where the wires running from the regulator to the battery where corroded. After exchange, it worked fine.

Changing the regulator is easy if you decide to do that.

But as your saying that the volt´s read 0 after startup, I´d bet money that it´s the regulator that is fried.
It COULD be the generator. That´s easy to test aswell. Take a knife and peel some of the insulation of the yellow wires. Start the bike and test for current from the generator to the alternator. It SHOULD read at about 30 volts AC (not DC!).

If that works, then check the outgoing voltage from the regulator to battery. Should be about 13-14 volts and flutter alot on idle. If it´s more or 0 then the regulator is fried.

If that is good, then it could be that the battery is old.. How long has it been on the bike? Most of the old YB16AL-A2 batteries don´t last more then 3 seasons, unless it´s a real Yuasa. Then maybe 1 or 2 seasons more, depending on how you take care of it.

The fan is a standard 12 volt motor.
The leads go out from the TEMP swith on the left side of the engine (you can trace them from the fan back). It could be your motor or the temp switch that is gone. Check your fuses for the fan first. Blown fuse = blown motor on the fan.

You can test the fan by feeding 12 v directly on the leads to it. Should start right up. Bucklew put up a great "fix it" for it in the "old" hall of wisdom.
 

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Regarding the AC voltage on the yellow wires from the alternator: It may be about 20 or 30V AC at an idle. But it should rise proportional with RPM. It can go up to 100 or so V at very high RPM, so be careful. The RR takes care of:
1) changing the AC to DC, and
2) regulating that variable voltage to "battery charging" voltage.

14 to 14.5VDC at the battery after it's charged up is OK. This is at about 2000rpm or above.
 

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Stick said:
Regarding the AC voltage on the yellow wires from the alternator: It may be about 20 or 30V AC at an idle. But it should rise proportional with RPM. It can go up to 100 or so V at very high RPM, so be careful. The RR takes care of:
1) changing the AC to DC, and
2) regulating that variable voltage to "battery charging" voltage.

14 to 14.5VDC at the battery after it's charged up is OK. This is at about 2000rpm or above.
:crazy: (i was waiting to use this smiley)

What he said!
I was a little fast on the send button... :cool:

//amullo
 

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Go to the Electrosport website from a previous post. They have a great troubleshooting chart that you can run through in 30 minutes and save the $180. I had the same problem and that chart helped me determine that the regulator was dead, rather obvious from the burned up wires, and more importantly, helped me trouble shoot where the corroded contacts were to prevent the same problem from happening again.
 

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Regulator/wiring/alternator issue?

Hey, I am a proud but an often stranded owner of a 95 916. I have been fighting a Rectifier/Alternator/Wiring? issue with my bike since I got it 2 years ago.

It started with the crazy tachometer, lack of headlites, constant on turn signal issue similar to the original post. It lead to my battery slowly draining, and then I found fried wiring. The yellow wires from the Voltage recifier to the Alternator I think. I resoldered the first burnt wire thinking a lower activated fan switch would solve the "heat" issue, however a half year and two more stranded bike pick ups later, I see that the other yellow wire has melted.

I resoldered the yellow wire, and put on a new ducati rectifier kit, however now the bike seems to get good electricity, good lites etc. However, it will now not even try to turn over. I tried the old rectifier again, and still not ignition, just good lites.

Any help?

P.s. Pardon my noob status here.
 

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*Check the fuses! Check your kill switch!

*Does the bikes starter turn? If not, check your starter solenoid.
That´s the ROUND thing just infront of the battery. It should "click" when you hit the startbutton. could be that it´s damaged.

*The starter turns, but no ignition?
*Does the fuelpump "prime"? (it builds up the pressure in the fuelsupply. takes 5 seconds max and the shuts off - makes a buzzing sound in the tank). check that your wires to the fuelpump are connected and that your gaslines are connected.

*Does the bike TRY to turn over, but doesn´t catch? Could be a groundwire fault.. Or maybe the sparkplugs or any number of problems..

//amullo
 

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Electrical issue

Thanks for the quick response amullo.

*Check the fuses! Check your kill switch!
These seem fine, when I pull the 3 amp fuse and reset the fuel pump reprimes.

*Does the bikes starter turn? If not, check your starter solenoid.
That´s the ROUND thing just infront of the battery. It should "click" when you hit the startbutton. could be that it´s damaged.
I need to check this when I get home, I think I remember it clicking when I hit the start button, however it might be that I remember something else clicking when I reset the fuse.

*The starter turns, but no ignition?
The starter does not turn at all, it is like the start button has not been pressed.

*Does the fuelpump "prime"? (it builds up the pressure in the fuelsupply. takes 5 seconds max and the shuts off - makes a buzzing sound in the tank). check that your wires to the fuelpump are connected and that your gaslines are connected.
The fuel pump does prime, which in the past it hasn't sometimes during my electrical issues.

*Does the bike TRY to turn over, but doesn´t catch? Could be a groundwire fault.. Or maybe the sparkplugs or any number of problems..
The bike doesn't even try to turn over.

Also, before I noticed that I had melted the yellow wire again, the bike would turn over but would not charge the battery, kinda makes since as I think this wire connects the regulator to the alternator. However, after I soldered the burnt through wire, and installed the new regulator/rectifier (without replacing the included wire (sub) harness, the bike does not turn over, but does get electricity. I put the old rectifier/regulater back on to try to isolate the problem, but still same old " no ignition " situation.

Any other ideas? When I get home from work I can give anymore insite that is needed.

P.
//amullo
 

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Check the startersolenoid first. It should "click" when you push the starterbutton.

If it doesn´t = replace

If it does.. = Humm.. the starter SHOULD turn. You might want to put a voltmeter on the wires running from the startersoleniod to the starter to see that juice is actually flowing..

If you have replaced the rectifier and soldered the yellow wires, then the bikes charging SHOULD be okey.

Try using a replacement battery.. But.. if you have a battery that is just old, normally you get a very fast clicking sound of the solenoid..

You might check that your wiring from the starter switch is actually connected. That ´s reaching for straws, but easy to check..

If nothing of the above works.. I´m stumped. The only thing left is a bad wire somewhere or a burned out starter..

//amullo
 

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Fixed! No expensive shop visits for me

Thanks Amullo and all,

I think your solenoid prognosis was correct. I put on the newer rectifier and sub harness, fun fun with solder gun. Checked and reseated the plastic connector behind the solenoid (it was a little loose) and went to test by connecting the battery. Eureka it worked.....well it worked after replacing the 30 amp fuse I blew when somehow I completed a short circuit hooking up my battery without the battery being it the battery seat (cutting corners, sheesh). I have riden the bike successfully since, however I have not verified the recharging of the battery. I didn't buy a voltmeter yet. Once again thanks.

P.
 
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