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ECU Errors from service work

3808 Views 21 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  belter
To preface this issue, I have to say that the ECU on the bike has been changed to a %AM unit that was apparently running in a 2002 ST4s. I had the CO adjusted and the TB's balanced by a tech this week and the following errors have come on the diagnostics which could not be cleared.
Engine Speed sensor P0335 (Memorized status) - Bike runs fine.
Fuel level open circuit or short to ground P0460 - Active Status. Fuel gauge works fine.
Cooling fan control circuit 1 - open curcuit or short to ground P0480 - Memorized status - cooling fan works as it should.
Vehicle Speed sensor/signal - implausible signal P0500 - Active status - ABS works fine.
Engine control unit node CAN line - mute node U1601 - Active status - Bike does not have CAN wiring like the ST3??

Can anyone comment on this in anyway? Maybe the change in ECU has caused all these and they are historical. The 5AM is probably originally from a CAN wired bike so the alarms may have been active in the ST4s 2002 model as well.
If I didnt have the work done I would never have known. Maybe I just need to ignore these :cool:

Cheers,
Nick
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I have no clue. Someone with a factory shop manual with an ECU pin printout should show a CAN hi/lo wire(s). If it's multi sensor assist, from ECU out to dashboard, CAN is wrapped around the main harness so as to split signals out to the dash. Say TPS and a stepper motor use the same sensors, how can the dash know who is who to set the code light on. Make sense? It's all about frequency interferences.

The ignore boils down to this. To ride a limped bike, codes run under the a/N Method. Said as Alpha/numeric or follows nature how FI is handcuffed to the 1 ATMO, or 14.7 = Digital.

You were running Analog with no codes. Sensor drops out of the loop, it resets how to follow the rpm as throttle input. You have the light to mid throttle load, then the WOT heavy load. So to know if you are in a protected limp mode, where the ignition curve is going to stumble up the ignition curve, injectors might spit sporadic, it's going to buck and misfire kind of no throttle up is the code is set. No code is linear smooth up to redline.

Buck up to redline or way before that, then it's a hard set code. Smooth as glass, ignore it says phantom codes. Don't know how sophisticated an ECU is these days, but going thru different generations of the same bike, one ECU would turn the code off within seconds. Latest bike uses an 02 sensor.

I disconnected it to see if it rode different. I reconnected and it did not shut off till so many key turns later. I ignored it because it was a simple disconnect. I can only take a wild guess and it learned all over again, thinking, the disconnect flushed the RAM it had saved, but the disconnect dumped to ground doing that I guess, thus the relearn?

I've disconnected the TPS and that sets the Method. Did the old bucking bronco and learned it will limp you home, but getting to redline is not about to happen. So the guess is let it learn and eventually shuts off? Or, pin swap at the harness between years? Same black box. Where a weather-pac pin is in the connector, meaning 'not used.'

Again, book calls the pin out so as to match pin to wire.
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I have no clue. Someone with a factory shop manual with an ECU pin printout should show a CAN hi/lo wire(s). If it's multi sensor assist, from ECU out to dashboard, CAN is wrapped around the main harness so as to split signals out to the dash. Say TPS and a stepper motor use the same sensors, how can the dash know who is who to set the code light on. Make sense? It's all about frequency interferences.

The ignore boils down to this. To ride a limped bike, codes run under the a/N Method. Said as Alpha/numeric or follows nature how FI is handcuffed to the 1 ATMO, or 14.7 = Digital.

You were running Analog with no codes. Sensor drops out of the loop, it resets how to follow the rpm as throttle input. You have the light to mid throttle load, then the WOT heavy load. So to know if you are in a protected limp mode, where the ignition curve is going to stumble up the ignition curve, injectors might spit sporadic, it's going to buck and misfire kind of no throttle up is the code is set. No code is linear smooth up to redline.

Buck up to redline or way before that, then it's a hard set code. Smooth as glass, ignore it says phantom codes. Don't know how sophisticated an ECU is these days, but going thru different generations of the same bike, one ECU would turn the code off within seconds. Latest bike uses an 02 sensor.

I disconnected it to see if it rode different. I reconnected and it did not shut off till so many key turns later. I ignored it because it was a simple disconnect. I can only take a wild guess and it learned all over again, thinking, the disconnect flushed the RAM it had saved, but the disconnect dumped to ground doing that I guess, thus the relearn?

I've disconnected the TPS and that sets the Method. Did the old bucking bronco and learned it will limp you home, but getting to redline is not about to happen. So the guess is let it learn and eventually shuts off? Or, pin swap at the harness between years? Same black box. Where a weather-pac pin is in the connector, meaning 'not used.'

Again, book calls the pin out so as to match pin to wire.
Wow a bit to take in. If I search on the ECU serial it says it is off a 659 monster. As I say it was out of a running 02 St4s which like mine does not use a CAN line system. I am just wondering if the error codes have come over from this bike.

The tech wants to explore removing them and oh by the way "you can put it on my dyno" and before you know it $1000 has drained out of my wallet to do something to a bike that is running perfectly.
Cheers
I'd say no on the transfer of codes. If all sensors are within spec, no open, or short, it should not code. But seems if the first code is not addressed, it sends a shit load of other phantom codes. Most codes are found with an ohm meter, not a dyno.

Sensor has a set parameter of resistance it works within. Pin to pin or male/female ends cannot make contact is another way it codes. Wire to wire ends show an 'open' is the next variable. A simple ground wire not grounded is more the case than others. ECU is the last to point to.

Starts right up, revs in all gears to redline as if no codes present, no overheating coolant wise, or no overheating engine [retard] ignition wise, you are good to go. Like I said, there are about 9 possible codes that act redundant to where you can ride a coded bike till the compression dies out, where it wont run or start anymore.
To preface this issue, I have to say that the ECU on the bike has been changed to a %AM unit that was apparently running in a 2002 ST4s. I had the CO adjusted and the TB's balanced by a tech this week and the following errors have come on the diagnostics which could not be cleared.
Engine Speed sensor P0335 (Memorized status) - Bike runs fine.
Fuel level open circuit or short to ground P0460 - Active Status. Fuel gauge works fine.
Cooling fan control circuit 1 - open curcuit or short to ground P0480 - Memorized status - cooling fan works as it should.
Vehicle Speed sensor/signal - implausible signal P0500 - Active status - ABS works fine.
Engine control unit node CAN line - mute node U1601 - Active status - Bike does not have CAN wiring like the ST3??

Can anyone comment on this in anyway? Maybe the change in ECU has caused all these and they are historical. The 5AM is probably originally from a CAN wired bike so the alarms may have been active in the ST4s 2002 model as well.
If I didnt have the work done I would never have known. Maybe I just need to ignore these :cool:

Cheers,
Nick
I did the same 5AM retrofit on a 2001 ST4s, but with a tricked out 2004 DP mapping. What I can tell:
  • fuel level trim: I thought i have the same error, not sure. Also works without problems, so ignored this one
  • the 5AM is programmed for 2 cooling fans, while the 'older' type has only one. So it's missing a fan.
  • the CAN error is logical: you don't have a CAN on a original 59M ECU. You do on a 5AM with CAN, so it's missing input --> error

Can't tell you anything about the speed sensor or ABS signals though, don't have ABS on my bike
I have no clue.
Why do you always write a novel on things you don't know? 🤔
Because you just can't say analog, digital, method, nature's number, ROM and RAM, truthtables and on and on with one sentence. Basic black box theory. Because throwing good known parts for another good known part is not knowing how a code self diagnoses itself.

It's a fueling problem, right? Gas tank says more gas then normal. It's an unknown injector throwing that into play, or it's a mapping variable and fuckflashing it. Fuel, spark, compression. Comp it runs - eliminate. Spark it starts - eliminate. Fuel is the only variable left.

Shoot me if I don't know my way around a computer bike. It's why I'm here... to study the ECU. It's all in a slow evolving evolution as the cam sensor comes into play, as CAN comes into play. Lots of telemetry to figure out.

The book theory is to walk out the variable(s). To see how the black box works. The fiddlefucking with the computer bike and why it does WATT it does.

I bring a different page that's not in the man you will figure this out a lot faster if you read it again. It's in the absolute, I can't explain how simple it is... are the basics.

Going to work on a computer bike? Here it says how to read a code.

Signed,
Computer Bike Fiddlefuckers Fuel Fuckflashing Driveability Union Local 848
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I did the same 5AM retrofit on a 2001 ST4s, but with a tricked out 2004 DP mapping. What I can tell:
  • fuel level trim: I thought i have the same error, not sure. Also works without problems, so ignored this one
  • the 5AM is programmed for 2 cooling fans, while the 'older' type has only one. So it's missing a fan.
  • the CAN error is logical: you don't have a CAN on a original 59M ECU. You do on a 5AM with CAN, so it's missing input --> error

Can't tell you anything about the speed sensor or ABS signals though, don't have ABS on my bike
These points make sense so thanks for taking a couple of the errors out of the need to do something about it bucket.
thanks!
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How did your tech adapt the ECU?
TuneECU, it seems to me, only transfers the maps and other variables. Proof: I run a Hyper ECU with my ST3 engine and it still comes with the servo start function (you press the starter button once and it cranks until the engine starts). And the TuneECU .hex files are smaller than the IAWReader .bin files by ~70 k.

IAWReader and IAWReader transfer the whole ECU memory. So try uploading a .bin specifically for your bike and see what happens.
How did your tech adapt the ECU?
TuneECU, it seems to me, only transfers the maps and other variables. Proof: I run a Hyper ECU with my ST3 engine and it still comes with the servo start function (you press the starter button once and it cranks until the engine starts). And the TuneECU .hex files are smaller than the IAWReader .bin files by ~70 k.

IAWReader and IAWReader transfer the whole ECU memory. So try uploading a .bin specifically for your bike and see what happens.
The ECU was installed by myself. It was purchased second hand and was fitted to an imported ST4s. I purchased it with all the locks and ignition with keys that were swapped out. It must have come from a monster 659 (I googled the ECU serial #). Not sure how it was adapted to the ST4s.

It ran ok but I wanted the Rexxer map installed, the same as i had in the original ECU. It has run great for the last 3-4 years like this. I don't really want to replace the bin with the original as I will lose the map and have to pay another $440 to have it loaded or $800 to have it run on the dyno. This all started by just wanting the throttle bodies balanced and CO levels checked, resulting in the tech seeing the errors.

Since starting this post I have found out the reason for the errors which do not affect the running of the bike. My concern is with the 2% CO level that the tech set the bike to which is now causing it run lean with popping on a closed throttle and running hotter. He won't listen to me re increasing the CO level so have booked it into another Ducati shop to have the balance and CO levels redone. Apparently, they have to balance the throttles again to adjust the CO level. If I could just adjust the CO myself I would tweak it up a little at a time until the popping disappears as I do not have a gas tester.
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So the bike ran with this ECU and software on it? Ok, didn't catch that.

You should be able to use TuneECU or IAWriter/Reader + TunePro do reset TPS, adjust CO and do other fun stuff. Not much reason to pay for Rexxer on the 5AM anymore.

What was the reason for the errors?
just get guzzidiag / iawdiag and the cable from lonelec and do it yourself. it's really very easy.

if it has had the mixture set on each cylinder then generally it'll stay the same if you trim it up and down.
So the bike ran with this ECU and software on it? Ok, didn't catch that.

You should be able to use TuneECU or IAWriter/Reader + TunePro do reset TPS, adjust CO and do other fun stuff. Not much reason to pay for Rexxer on the 5AM anymore.

What was the reason for the errors?
Errors were due to the ECU coming from a can line bike. Looking for two fans when there is one. Looking for wheel speed sensor when it is a cable speedo. Can line error for obvious reasons.
Engine speed sensor and fuel level errors are probably also due to not having those sensors on my bike.
just get guzzidiag / iawdiag and the cable from lonelec and do it yourself. it's really very easy.

if it has had the mixture set on each cylinder then generally it'll stay the same if you trim it up and down.
Yes i have guzzi diag so I could just adjust the CO trim up a bit using this? I have the cables as well as I have used this on my guzzi for map loading.
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I am confused.
You are running 695 (or something non-ST4S) software? With what mapping?
If you connect with the JPdiag (similar to, but not the Guzzi Diag), it should tell you.
yes, just trim it up. go in steps of say 4 i reckon.

ecu labels could have a ducati model # - early st4s was 009 for example. there can be the ducati part # - 2864xxxxx for oem, 965xxxxxx for dp. then there may be the marelli software # - 2219ds19 or 3325fnq1 or stuff like that. sometimes more than 1 marelli # for any given ducati or dp #.

any other # on labels stuck onto the ecu are best ignored. only ones that matter are 59m, 5am, hw103 and hw610. everything else is just something they labelled it for convenience. like when people think they have a 996r ecu in their base model 998. they all had 996r on the long white stickers.

although, truly weird one - i had a shop call me about an s4rs they had in that ran odd. owner sent me the ecu later - it had m1000 # on it so i figured it'd be flashed to suit. read the file out - nope. m1000 ecu in an s4rs. wrong on so many levels. ran to some extent, was flat in the middle allegedly. went much better with the s4rs file in it. you have to wonder though - who fitted it, and how did they come to the conclusion it was a good idea? ffs.

faults - i've seen a few st3 with fan 2 faults. none of them have had 2 fans. if you have stuff disconnected while working on it and then turn the ignition on, it will often log a fault.
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I am confused.
You are running 695 (or something non-ST4S) software? With what mapping?
If you connect with the JPdiag (similar to, but not the Guzzi Diag), it should tell you.
All I know is it was in a running ST4s that was imported from Japan as a parts bike. It is not the original ECU as the 02 model it was in would have been manufactured with the earlier 59m ECU.
yes, just trim it up. go in steps of say 4 i reckon.

ecu labels could have a ducati model # - early st4s was 009 for example. there can be the ducati part # - 2864xxxxx for oem, 965xxxxxx for dp. then there may be the marelli software # - 2219ds19 or 3325fnq1 or stuff like that. sometimes more than 1 marelli # for any given ducati or dp #.

any other # on labels stuck onto the ecu are best ignored. only ones that matter are 59m, 5am, hw103 and hw610. everything else is just something they labelled it for convenience. like when people think they have a 996r ecu in their base model 998. they all had 996r on the long white stickers.

although, truly weird one - i had a shop call me about an s4rs they had in that ran odd. owner sent me the ecu later - it had m1000 # on it so i figured it'd be flashed to suit. read the file out - nope. m1000 ecu in an s4rs. wrong on so many levels. ran to some extent, was flat in the middle allegedly. went much better with the s4rs file in it. you have to wonder though - who fitted it, and how did they come to the conclusion it was a good idea? ffs.

faults - i've seen a few st3 with fan 2 faults. none of them have had 2 fans. if you have stuff disconnected while working on it and then turn the ignition on, it will often log a fault.
Thanks Belter. I need to refresh my memory on the use of the software. Might give it a go.
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Thanks Belter. I need to refresh my memory on the use of the software. Might give it a go.
Yes use Lonelec cables/Reader and TuneECU map for 5am ST4S. Let the bike warm up to 60 degrees. Swipe to the left to get to the two clocks (dash) view and ECU Adjustments. Clear error codes/ set CO trim up 3 go for a ride and do it again until you get rid of the popping. You may see idle rise or lower a bit with this; which you can adjust slightly in the fuel maps.
Be careful in there. Read and save your map first and anything new save to a newly renamed map so you can go back. You can adjust rev limit, fan speed too.
Swipe to the fuel maps and find "DEVICES"... uncheck 02 sensor and immobilizer in "parameters/devices."
Yes use Lonelec cables/Reader and TuneECU map for 5am ST4S. Let the bike warm up to 60 degrees. Swipe to the left to get to the two clocks (dash) view and ECU Adjustments. Clear error codes/ set CO trim up 3 go for a ride and do it again until you get rid of the popping. You may see idle rise or lower a bit with this; which you can adjust slightly in the fuel maps.
Be careful in there. Read and save your map first and anything new save to a newly renamed map so you can go back. You can adjust rev limit, fan speed too.
Swipe to the fuel maps and find "DEVICES"... uncheck 02 sensor and immobilizer in "parameters/devices."
Awesome, thanks Wed.
Let you know how I get on.
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