There is this fellow on the adv channel who found an inside line into the GC. As most of the south rim is Navajo land, it is who you know. He learned that he could enter the Res., drive up to a certain gate, pay a kid at the gate $20?, drive through the gate, work a maze of trails, and then camp right on the south rim. All alone.The tribe is making a fortune on this little gem. Some will treat you great and some are complete a-holes. The overall experience is really good as I am sure your friends told you.