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I've been chatting w/ a fellow over in Italy who is a Ducati freak-a-zoid! Just nuts about em' and very knowledgeable too. Many probably know this but w/ regard to the stalling problem there an easy fix-raise the idle!
Now on USA Ducs that adjustment is available but the cap has to be removed on the left side of the airbox togain access to the adjustment screw. On Euro models it is not capped. He further stated that usually it's as simple as raising the idle to cure the stalling issue. In Europe the 999/749 do not have this problem. Tech's here in the US just do this-no need on most occasions to fool w/ Co2 and other stuff.
Any thoughts...?
 

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Both 999 I have I purchased used. Both had some noted stalling by the seller. Both I found and fixed an issue with air getting into the clutch system. Both, including the current one which I have put 4,000 miles on since making that fix have NEVER stalled. So my view 999 do not have a stall problem, if it stalls, have TPS checked and ensure your clutch system is 100% . I'll bet the vast majority of reported stalls will go away.
 

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Both 999 I have I purchased used. Both had some noted stalling by the seller. Both I found and fixed an issue with air getting into the clutch system. Both, including the current one which I have put 4,000 miles on since making that fix have NEVER stalled. So my view 999 do not have a stall problem, if it stalls, have TPS checked and ensure your clutch system is 100% .
I don't understand how the clutch affects idle.
 

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Dealers won't touch the idle adjustment typically. I had the stalling issue and made 4 trips to the dealer to get it resolved to no avail. One trip to a non-dealer shop and a hole in the airbox later and all is good with a simple bump of the idle to 1150.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
if all you're doing is increasing the idle, why don't you just use the "cold start" lever on the clip-on?
When I bought my 999 the owner said that it has a "typical" stalling issue. I asked about it and he said that he bumps the fast idle up a bit and all is OK? He said that the bike had been to the dealer (in MD and PA.I bought the bike in MD) to fix the problem to no avail.
Another issue that was brought to my attention by Mark at the DucShop is the crank is torqued down too tight...I can't remember exactly what he said....but that could cause stalling.
My 999 was a staller until I replaced the Termi slip on kit ECU, w/ a Termi full exhaust kit ECU-problem solved!.
I would imagine you could put a bit of tape around the cold start lever to raise the idle so the lever won't snap down. I would put the tape or what ever between the lever and switch gear control...build it up a bit to raise the idle when the lever is shut and see what happens?
 

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Most people attribute stalling to low idle, and bump idle up to overcome some other root cause issue..like an improperly working clutch system that is the real root cause to the stall


I don't understand how the clutch affects idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Most people attribute stalling to low idle, and bump idle up to overcome some other root cause issue..like an improperly working clutch system that is the real root cause to the stall
Thats clever..I never thought of an improperly bled clutch to be an issue but I can see that being the problem as you clutch off from a standing start...or...if you come to a stop and pull the clutch in as you slow and it stalls....or if your just sitting at a stop and the idle suddenly "drops" off and stops running. It's idle quality or too low idle.
 

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When cold (or even warm), my 999R will sometimes stall when I want to start from a stop, independently of whether the clutch is pulled or not. Solution is to raise the idle with the lever, blip the throttle, then pull in the clutch and slip it into gear, so obviously the clutch has nothing to do with this. And, with an Italian spec 999R, this still happens, so it is not a US only thing.

Tom
 

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ZDM,
I think the concept you mentioned may work for some but it is an oversimplification of what is actually happening. The screws you mention are air bypass/bleed screws and not the traditional idle control that physically moves the throttle. Although it has an effect on idle, it's function is also interrelated to throttle body balance, and idle CO% balance between cylinders. The interrelationship between all of these are not linear between cylinders from my experience. Blindly bumping up idle without checking air and CO% may completely screw up your throttle balance and tuning. I've ridden some of these hack jobs and the engines are so imbalanced that my hands get numb riding the bike.

On some XX9 bikes I've ridden (including my current 2006 999S when I bought it) the engine will die as it drops below 3000 rpm after pulling the clutch in, not even close to idle. On these bikes, a low idle had nothing to do with the issue and, barring electrical or mechanical issues, was solely due to ill-tuning.

On the bikes I've come across (749, 999, and 999S), once a proper throttle balance and tune is performed, the original stalling problem is exorcised. My current 999S idles dead smooth between 1000-1100 rpm and I can chop the throttle all day long and it won't die. I've ridden the bike in 30F Florida "winters" and today when it was 93F.

Just my experience.
 
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