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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yes, I've read the thread on the tech forum & am not gonna argue w/Duczilla on how big a GF working on this motor is.....BUT...my inquisitive nature can't be suppressed. I want to know! There is nothing on the 'net on servicing this motor. NOTHING! The Lt has nothing on servicing it....no youtube's....zippo! Which makes me wonder...... My '12 is approaching 90,000 miles and I'm toying w/the idea on getting a new one, but NOT if I can't service her myself.

Come on guys......Anything?
 

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I just bought a 1260 recently. Ducati will not even so much as give me torque specs for anything. I cannot find a service manual for doing the DVT service. As you said before. There isn't much info out there for digging into the motor. If you find anything please share. Inquiring minds want to know. And Ducati seems to want to keep the information to themselves so we have to pay them up to $2,000 to do the 18,000 miles service.
 

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There is surely a way to time the pulleys otherwise how could they assemble engines at the factory...
 

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There is only one option to get 1260 service manual - USB drive that contains all manuals of all Ducati bikes from 2012 to 2018. It will cost you $350.
As much as Duczilla tries to convince everybody that only rocket scientists can work on DVT, there is absolutely no magic. Following the manual and using a couple of special tools it seems not that hard to do.

I just bought a 1260 recently. Ducati will not even so much as give me torque specs for anything. I cannot find a service manual for doing the DVT service. As you said before. There isn't much info out there for digging into the motor. If you find anything please share. Inquiring minds want to know. And Ducati seems to want to keep the information to themselves so we have to pay them up to $2,000 to do the 18,000 miles service.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Its gonna be harder then my '12 simply because you have a major 'variable': the pulleys rotate on the cams! It would seem.......IF you got it at TDC, marked (photographed) the pulley/belt/cam positions, then.......but the lack of info, internet chatter, videos/etc is disconcerting. I'd love to see a NON-Ducati factory individual post something on how the F~#* you do the service!
 

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Its gonna be harder then my '12 simply because you have a major 'variable': the pulleys rotate on the cams! It would seem.......IF you got it at TDC, marked (photographed) the pulley/belt/cam positions, then
You also have to be careful not to turn the engine. The ratio between the pulleys is such that you have to turn the engine about 60 turns to get it to the same spot. If you turn the crank then the Ducati tool 887135009 helps to find the correct TDC.
 

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You also have to be careful not to turn the engine. The ratio between the pulleys is such that you have to turn the engine about 60 turns to get it to the same spot. If you turn the crank then the Ducati tool 887135009 helps to find the correct TDC.
Ok I see the point

Normally a testastretta have 20 teeths on the drive pulley (the lower one beside the clutch) and the cams pulleys both have 20 teeths also. There's a 2:1 gearing inside the case for the drive pulley, so every 2 rotations of the crank, the drive pulley make 1 turn (and turn the cams 1 turn obviously).

Where on the dvt, the cam pulleys are larger to accommodate the mechanism and they now have 27 teeths. But the drive pulley still have 20 teeths otherwise the cases would have needed major modification to allow a larger pulley (no clearance). So they changed the gearing inside. Now for 2 rotations of the crank, the drive pulley need to turn 27 teeths instead of 20 teeths like before.

I see how it would be confusing to try to align a marking on the drive pulley with a line on the engine case as before. The cams still make one rotation per 2 crank rotations, but the drive pulley doesn't necessarily fall at the same spot. So the crank is better to be locked.

Because if you turn the crank when the cams and belts are not present and look for TDC with a tool, you will need to figure out "wich" tdc to choose between the first half rotation of the cams and the second half rotation of the cams. Am I clear? :)

But I still think without a crank tool if the engine is not disturbed they don't turn by themselves easily. On the other hand if someone move the bike while in gear and the cams are removed, I see the problem to find the exact same teeth at the right spot again.


Looks like you know what you're talking about so I have a few other thoughts about the mechanism.


The cam pulleys move approx 1/8 of a turn on the cam. An electric actuator let oil enter one side or the other of the 3 cavities inside the pulleys. So my guess is this system doesn't have infinite adjustability but basically only 2 choices. The cams are advanced (or retarded if you prefer) OR they are not. Kinda like a vtech on a Honda, it's on or off.

But they can control at which rpm the event of advancing or retarding the cam will happen on both intake and exhaust cams.

Does that make sense? Do I have my rocket scientist degree or not? :cool:



Bottom line, with the crank locked and the tool to hold the cams I don't see any problem doing this job.
 

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And here's how I would do it mcguyver style without any tools.

I would begin by aligning the dots of the cam pulleys with the head as stated in the manual.

then draw some temporary markings on the drive pulley and the case with a paint marker or something.

then remove and replace belts.Making sure my markings still align perfectly.


At horizontal TDC there's tension on the vertical cams so usually I just advance 4-5 teeths on the drive pulley, place and tension vertical belt then I turn the crank again to return at TDC and repeat the process for the horizontal head.

With a dvt I would just fight the spring tension.
 

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And here's how I would do it mcguyver style without any tools.

I would begin by aligning the dots of the cam pulleys with the head as stated in the manual.

then draw some temporary markings on the drive pulley and the case with a paint marker or something.

then remove and replace belts.Making sure my markings still align perfectly.


At horizontal TDC there's tension on the vertical cams so usually I just advance 4-5 teeths on the drive pulley, place and tension vertical belt then I turn the crank again to return at TDC and repeat the process for the horizontal head.

With a dvt I would just fight the spring tension.
I think you might be right. And if you want to make things easier you could make the cam locking tool yourself. Here are the dimensions.

Then there is also the valve job. I heard that with DVT you have to remove the cams for both closing and opening shims. There is no room to move the rockers sideways.

Please report if you do it. My job is still ahead but I've had a lot of info how to do it.
 

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An electric actuator let oil enter one side or the other of the 3 cavities inside the pulleys. So my guess is this system doesn't have infinite adjustability but basically only 2 choices. The cams are advanced (or retarded if you prefer) OR they are not. Kinda like a vtech on a Honda, it's on or off.
My understanding from videos put out around the time of the 2015 DVT release is that the change of cam timing is more than just on/off but I'll be damned if I can find the relevant link just now. The power certainly doesn't hit like on a VTEC motor.

Edit: here you go, continuous variability.
 

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I was hoping that tuners would have unlocked dvt timing by now... i suspect much of the timing was selected for fuel efficiency.
 

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I heard that with DVT you have to remove the cams for both closing and opening shims. There is no room to move the rockers sideways.
This is true for any of the testastrettas. Measure both clearances for all 4 valves on a head. Then take off the cam bridges and pull the cams to access the valves.
 

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This is one of the things that makes it so much easier than the earlier designs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ricko,

Yes, your explanation makes sense and I now understand why its more difficult then our pre-DVT motor, but.....I have a few questions:
1) when changing belts ONLY, you use the cam locking tool, mark the belts as you would on a pre-DVT, and swap them out. Is this correct?
2) when changing valve clearances, you lock the crank in place, using the tool pictured, and remove the cams and change shims/etc. when you put the cams back in, are there marks/etc to get them back in their original position?
3) do the pulleys on the cam just rotate 'freely' when the cams are out?
4) the tools: I've googled the tool numbers and get zip. Someone must make them and way cheaper then Ducati, right?

Thanks
 

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Ricko,

Yes, your explanation makes sense and I now understand why its more difficult then our pre-DVT motor, but.....I have a few questions:
1) when changing belts ONLY, you use the cam locking tool, mark the belts as you would on a pre-DVT, and swap them out. Is this correct?
2) when changing valve clearances, you lock the crank in place, using the tool pictured, and remove the cams and change shims/etc. when you put the cams back in, are there marks/etc to get them back in their original position?
3) do the pulleys on the cam just rotate 'freely' when the cams are out?
4) the tools: I've googled the tool numbers and get zip. Someone must make them and way cheaper then Ducati, right?

Thanks
1) I never marked any belts I consider this wasted time. Always used the dots on the pulleys. With a dvt crank locked on tdc, the cams pulleys have dots that align with the head, look in the manual.

2) You reinstall with their flat on the top like when you pulled them out.

3) No. They turn only about 1/8 of a turn. See pulley mechanism picture

4) I don't know
 

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