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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So the std gearing is 15/40 with a 530 pitch, I see lots of posts about lifespan etc, and i have seen the occasional post about adding two on the rear, some have dropped a tooth on the front, which i'm nota fan of, especially on a bike with this much suspension travel...

So i'm curious, who has changed their gearing and if so to what?
I understand lowering it will reduce the theoretical top speed in all likelihood and it may increase consumption but i get pretty frugal figures so i could deal with that....
I just find it a bit tall, it feels like in 5th or 6th at our common cruising pace it's just under that point in the rev range where the acceleration comes on strong, i have to change down or roll on and wait for maybe 300/400rpm and it's away.

I know that the electronics can fool us into thinking the bike isn't to our liking because the electronics can interfere so i tried to turn it all off, can't figure out how to, so i put it in sport, turned everything down to it's lowest setting and tried it, still feels like it's the same to me....
 

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I'm with you on the assessment that the gearing is just a bit too tall. Mostly notice it in the around town stuff when I which I could take a corner in 2nd without a hint of lugging the engine. I'll be going with a rear 42 this spring.
 

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2011 Monster 1100 Evo, 2020 Multistrada 1260S, 2008 track 848
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I had a '15 1200S (DVT). first 20'000km with a 15T, next 35'000km with a 14T.
I loved the 14T at corner exit, this was a clear limitation on the 15T. Feels easier to stay on the line on very tight corners. Overall, feels like there is as bit more torque lower in the revs - very close to my 1260 behaviour. I didn't notice any impact on consumption (either on long highway sections, commute or twisty roads) and the autonomy remained about the same.
Didn't try top speed impact, but highway cruising up to 160-170km/h keeps the same comfort. I had one vibration spot that shifted a few km/h lower, avoid it and no impact.
I moved to a '20 1260S, I will adopt a 14T on the first chain replacement.
And 14T in front is better than 52T at the wheel: lighter ;)
 

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snip
I just find it a bit tall, it feels like in 5th or 6th at our common cruising pace it's just under that point in the rev range where the acceleration comes on strong, i have to change down or roll on and wait for maybe 300/400rpm and it's away.

snip
If this a 15 - 17 model the real problem is the big hole in the torque curve right in the rev range you're referring to. Sprocket changes will help but the hole will always be there.
 

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1 off the front on mine.
Ditto, for short term until chain and rear need replacement - and works with existing chain length. Went 15/42 on prior Multi, similar to 14 alone, and it was an improvement (might try the 14/42). Also changed to 525 all around as the 530 can be a little overkill.
 

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19-1260s: recently installed 525, 15/42. excellent in town manners. Highway speeds 75+ makes the bike feel like its in "go" mode instead of cruising. I commute alot at those speeds, if I had to do over again I may try 15/41. (6th almost feels like 5th gear at highway speeds)
 

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2021 Multistrada V4S Radar & Travel Pack
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Cheers all,

The general rule of thumb with sprockets is 1 tooth on the front equates to about 2 1/2 on the back. Personally, I would shy away from going to a 14t upfront as that's pretty tight...... 15 is bad enough for chain wear. Going to a 42R will give a similar result to dropping 1 tooth on the front and should be easy to do on a single sided swingarm. Check if a longer chain is needed to fit the 42R in.

My riding buddies talk about an adaptor plate for accessory sprockets, so check that out before you order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the feedback everyone, appreciate it. (y)

Looks like i'm going to go 15/42 with a new chain and sprocket kit....

Here's what i understand to be true about altering the gearing.

14t front is not for me, the long travel suspension and the single sided swingarm with it's long guide look like it would be too small a diameter and possibly rub too much, the smaller diameter of the front sprocket also slightly increases chain wear i'm told.

I could fit a 42t rear on the std chain but the eccentric would likely be out of it's ideal (3 to 5 o'clock) position unless the chain is stretched at which point it's probably knackered anyway.

I'm going to use a QC carrier so the cush drives are captured and can't slip out the back, not sure if this has been updated on the factory stuff but i'm paranoid about the outer ring of the cush drive rubber walking out and machining the hub.... I also like the idea of being able to change it back simply if i discover i've made the wrong choice.

I'm going to 525, I get why it's 530 std but i'm not hard on my gear and i don't load it like charlie and ewen....
 

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Cheers all,

The general rule of thumb with sprockets is 1 tooth on the front equates to about 2 1/2 on the back. Personally, I would shy away from going to a 14t upfront as that's pretty tight...... 15 is bad enough for chain wear. Going to a 42R will give a similar result to dropping 1 tooth on the front and should be easy to do on a single sided swingarm. Check if a longer chain is needed to fit the 42R in.

My riding buddies talk about an adaptor plate for accessory sprockets, so check that out before you order.
I‘ve heard the “extra chain wear“ theory concerning going with a smaller front sprocket and I under stand the logic, but real life experience does not back it up. I presently have 18000 miles on my 14/42 sprockets and DID xring chain with no sign of wear so far.
 

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Re. Using stock chain with 42 rear sprocket. I'm interested in this. We're you able to determine how much of the eccentric adjustment was remaining after loosening the stock chain to accept the 42 sprocket? I worded the question poorly, but was the eccentric in the middle range of adjustment or closer to an extreme for loosening?

I can't figure out how to quote the earlier post using my phone. Coffee is still kicking in.
 

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I installed the new sprockets and carrier, I zip tied the chain to rear sprocket prior to cutting it to check fitment and available adjustment. Placed my chain slack gauge in the appropriate place and moved the eccentric both ways to see how it looked. (Also in urban mode as manual suggests)
 
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