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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I do all the maintenance on both my Ducati's: an '07 2-valve and a '12 MTS. How different is doing a belt change/valve adjust on the DVT? I read that you can't get a factory manual and I haven't found any youtube videos on a DVT belt/valve adjust. Someone here must have done their DVT, so.....
 

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If you can do an older one they you can do a DVT. slightly different with locking the cams but its the same principle.
 

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The special tool (I think you meen the one that bolts on top of the camshafts) seems to me to block the camshafts, so any (universal) blocking tool will work, as long as the variators are flush with the variator flat surface.
 

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"That looks like an excellent write up on changing the belts on a dvt. If only I could read Italian."

Translate the page then print?
 

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Has anybody started in on this project yet?
I'm thinking about having the Camshaft locking tool made, or making it myself.
But what are your guys thoughts on needing the TDC control tool listed in the factory workshop manual?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Have some posts disappeared from this thread? I could've sworn I posted a question regarding shim changes..... Hmmm.... Guess I'll re-post the question:

I'm assuming the cam locking tool is used for belt changes, but when you remove the cams to swap shims, the cam lock tool is reinstalled/installed for the belts....which begs the question: is there only ONE location that the cam lock tool installs on the cams?
 

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Have some posts disappeared from this thread? I could've sworn I posted a question regarding shim changes..... Hmmm.... Guess I'll re-post the question:

I'm assuming the cam locking tool is used for belt changes, but when you remove the cams to swap shims, the cam lock tool is reinstalled/installed for the belts....which begs the question: is there only ONE location that the cam lock tool installs on the cams?

Why don't you RTFM ? Everything is explained, in english, and with pictures.

Yes there's a flat on the cams.
 

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I started on this project this past weekend.
Getting the center spark plug caps off was a real bitch, of them is now broken and I need to ohm out the other one.
I need to find out a way to get them to not stick when I put it back together. There was no corrosion on the plug so maybe it was the boot sticking to the bore it sits in?
I need to look at the plugs; maybe the rubber boot was sticking to them?

I've got the vertical valve cover off and the timing belt covers mostly off.
I was trying to leave the airbox attached but it doesn't look like I can get the middle piece of the timing belt cover off with it in place.

I got the engine rotated so that the horizontal cylinder is at TDC and the 4 marks on the cams line up with the head.
I used a wooden dowel in the horizontal cylinders spark plug hole to find TDC. When I get the valve cover off tonight I will be able to verify that all the valves are closed.
(I need to buy a 12 point 10mm socket on the way home to remove the last bolt)

The tool I had made for locking the cams is in the mail.....
 

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Unless something has changed from the pre DVT motors, the center spark plug boots stick because of a vacuum created between the boot and the well it's in. Easy way to remove them is find a way to exert a steady pulling pressure, and simultaneously slide something down beside the boot, all the way to the bottom of the plug well, to break the vacuum. Finding something that is sufficiently rigid, but thin enough to fit, is the challenge. IIRC I used a long handled 3mm allen wrench.
 

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Unless something has changed from the pre DVT motors, the center spark plug boots stick because of a vacuum created between the boot and the well it's in. Easy way to remove them is find a way to exert a steady pulling pressure, and simultaneously slide something down beside the boot, all the way to the bottom of the plug well, to break the vacuum. Finding something that is sufficiently rigid, but thin enough to fit, is the challenge. IIRC I used a long handled 3mm allen wrench.
On the vertical cylinder I twisted the boot around as much as I could, maybe 720 degrees until it finally broke loose and slid right out. I could feel some suction even after it broke loose but beforehand it would only lift up maybe 1\2 inch and that was while prying up on it with a very large flat blade screwdriver! Does this sound like what you experienced or could this be something new?
 

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It's been years since I removed one of these, but that's basically how I recall it working. I could not remove it for anything, was sure I was going to damage the wire if I pulled any harder...then I realized it was suction causing the issue, broke the seal with my little allen key, and it came right out.
 

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I took a closer look at it last night.
With the spark plug removed the boot has no resistance sliding in and out of the head.
Trying to pull the boot off the spark plug is another story; it is really difficult to remove.
It's like the inner diameter of the boot is way too small, or the plug sits in it too deep creating a ton of suction.
 

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It looks like the original part number for the spark plug cable has been discontinued!

I'm intrested to see if the new cable has a different fit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Haven't read/posted recently, due to working hard on my project bike (1100S MTS that I'm fitting a Panigale fairing too) and 'attempting' to get it started/rideable by April (?), but.....

RTFM.....really? If I had a FM, I wouldn't be asking the question! I'm thinking about buying a DVT, whether a left over '17, or new 1260, due to my lovely '12 closing in on 100,000 miles and I don't want to spend the $$$, on a FM, if I'm not buying the bike! With that said, I've looked over the cam/belt system and I can't see its that difficult over the old motor. Not making a buying decision now, so....
 
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