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If it runs fine, go ahead and get the idea of a new engine out of your head. Once that idea is gone, perhaps with the assistance of a few beers/drinks, you will feel better about purchasing the bike and have the confidence to do what needs to be done.

I cannot speak for the XX98 machines since i have no working experience with them, but for the 748, 916, and 996, you can run the engines with the valves out of spec without much of an issue. Sometimes you can get away with them way out of spec. (Like .12mm on closers and .32mm on a couple of openners with the reset between .18mm and .26mm) XX9 seemed more sensitive to vales out of spec, in my experience. One had gaps greater than what I mentioned in the (...) While it did run, it stalled frequently and and seemed less responsive. My point on the vales, if it's running fine that's good new and don't pressure yourself. But they need to be done.

Belts, you need to look at them. Mine are 5 years old with maybe 1500 miles one them. While they are fine, I'll replace them soon b/c I think they have the corona-virus, but i'd still run a couple days at the track without worrying.

The point of my post, go back to being excited about the purchase, don't think about a new engine, start researching the maintenance by picking up the workshop manual for the XX98, then decided what to do and when. Collect the necessary parts bit by bit rather than all at once if you need to offset the cost, which shouldn't be must b/c is mostly gaskets and a few shims.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
If it runs fine, go ahead and get the idea of a new engine out of your head. Once that idea is gone, perhaps with the assistance of a few beers/drinks, you will feel better about purchasing the bike and have the confidence to do what needs to be done.

I cannot speak for the XX98 machines since i have no working experience with them, but for the 748, 916, and 996, you can run the engines with the valves out of spec without much of an issue. Sometimes you can get away with them way out of spec. (Like .12mm on closers and .32mm on a couple of openners with the reset between .18mm and .26mm) XX9 seemed more sensitive to vales out of spec, in my experience. One had gaps greater than what I mentioned in the (...) While it did run, it stalled frequently and and seemed less responsive. My point on the vales, if it's running fine that's good new and don't pressure yourself. But they need to be done.

Belts, you need to look at them. Mine are 5 years old with maybe 1500 miles one them. While they are fine, I'll replace them soon b/c I think they have the corona-virus, but i'd still run a couple days at the track without worrying.

The point of my post, go back to being excited about the purchase, don't think about a new engine, start researching the maintenance by picking up the workshop manual for the XX98, then decided what to do and when. Collect the necessary parts bit by bit rather than all at once if you need to offset the cost, which shouldn't be must b/c is mostly gaskets and a few shims.
Thanks man. I’ve had the bike a while now and have been riding it as my main vehicle since probably September of last year. Recently I replaced:
・Starter cables with oxygen free copper
・Spark plugs with iridiums
・Oil with rotella T6 (I know, I know)
・Filter with a K&M (hand tightened only)
・newducati rect. with the Yamaha mosfet
・new, stronger magnetic drain plug

It used to take 10 minutes+ to cold start and now it starts the first time, every time.

The bike runs great. The dealership just freaked me out and made me think it was a ticking time bomb I was putting money into. With the price of a used engine, and me most likely being able to do this myself I feel much better than when I posted this thread.

Do the valves ever get bad enough to do damage or is it only worse performance? My bike did die once randomly while idling at a stoplight today. I’m actually still riding with the leaking radiator a little bit Bc I’m renovating a house in the mountains and need to get up there.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Here's the motor I was talking about ( I have no affiliation with the seller)

I’m so tempted to just buy this and keep it as an extra 😍. If I wasn’t halfway through renovating a house I would. These aren’t going to suddenly become rare are they?

What about the 1198 Diavel engine? Is that an option for a 1098? Or anything newer than than the **98 bikes? Pannigale engine I imagine would be very difficult to get in there since it didn’t have a frame...
 

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As the desmo system wears the openers lose clearance and the closers gain clearance. At a certain point the valves do not fully close (no opener clearance) and the valves do not shed the heat from combustion, this causes valves to burn(think of cracking or plasma cutting). Loose closers will usually break 1/2 rings at a certain point.

On your side is high mile bikes that have seen regular adjustments (kept in spec) will break in heads at about 20,000 miles and the valves will move less. Your question would be simply when were they done last and were they done correctly at that time. If so the valves should not be much of a issue at your high mileage than say one with under 10,000 miles.

If they have not been done then who knows how far off they are so start by simply measuring that part is something you should have no problem with. Belts are simply cheap protection for the motor and not a good place to save $100.

Beyond that the stalling could be many things and know that fuel injection setup is part of a tune so AFTER the valves are done start reading up on injection maintenance operations. I am sure a local shop would do that part if you are not comfortable with that as well.
 

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Gee, my M/Y 2000 996 just had belt replacement/valve clearance service by the local dealer at 40,000 km and there was no talk of engine rebuilding now or in the foreseeable future.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Gee, my M/Y 2000 996 just had belt replacement/valve clearance service by the local dealer at 40,000 km and there was no talk of engine rebuilding now or in the foreseeable future.
I think the guy who said they want to sell my a new bike might be on the money....
 

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Why don't you try joining a Ducati Owners Club in Japan and get to know those members then get advice from them on where to get your bike serviced, I'm sure there would be tuners other than Ducati dealers that could do the work.
 

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This won't help, just something about Japan's Ducati scene. In Japan, having a dealer service your Ducati is really really expensive. I mean, like, you know, ridiculously expensive. Think Ferrari or Lamborghini, and you are not far off, in terms of "status overhead."
This was in the States, but when I had Panigale, I had 15k mile service done at a dealer, that included valve adjustment (no belt, Panigale has chain). That came to about $1500. And I know that if I had the same service done in Japan, it'd be close to $2000-2500. So there's that to consider. Also, you probably know this, used 'things' don't fetch high value in Japan, unless it's something collectible, so the amount they offered for your bike is low, but probably not entirely unreasonable from their point of view.
I was really nervous, too, to do the valve adjustment at first. It is pain in the arse, mostly because you have to get to them, but other than that, it's not a very difficult thing to do. You just have to take your time, and just be meticulous about it, and when done, it's actually quite satisfying. I can't comment on the overhaul part, but heck, if it runs fine, I'd just ignore that.
One more little thing - "I THINK" Japanese spec Ducati of that era, don't they have weird restrictor on it? I don't if it's through ECU or some other methods, but I think there's a power limiter on it. I know it has nothing to do with your predicament...
 

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I was going to bash the dealer and then I remember that I live in the most expensive area in the world, the Bay Area. Mechanics here charge $245 an hour (Porsche, Ferrari).

I just spent $210 on two timing belts for my Ducati and I thought that price was ridiculous. But that seems to be the going rates. When they gave me the belts, they look like stuff that came off a bicycle.
 

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Dealer near here shop rate is iirc $120/Hr. Not that the tech gets that much.
Pay to play does not mean you can't shop around. You better shop around I have heard. :)
 

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My 1098s stalled on a ride and would crank but not start. After researching on the boards and checking everything from the battery upward, it turned out to be the starter relay that also can double as the horn relay (located at the right side of the battery holder). I popped both out and cleaned them, swapped them since I knew the horn relay worked. The design of the plugs are vertical downward and can accumulate water and corrosion build-up. The starter relay had green-ish corrosion at the plugs. I now make sure I don't directly spray water on the battery side when I wash the bike.
As for the radiator, mine started leaking on the left side and I ordered an aluminum one off eBay for $ 127 USD. Just make sure it is an exact fit for your 1098. Be wary that some generic Ducati radiators from China will not have the bolt holes align right. Overall, it took me about 3 hours to take everything off, install and fill it with new coolant and then put the panels back on.

Also note, my 2008s had the shifter fork defect that I had also replaced myself after buying the parts from Ducati Omaha. There was a TSB for the kit needed and I bought that. The hard part was getting all the tools to take apart the transmission case, etc. I did not buy the clutch/transmission locking tool and had to use tie down straps to hold it in place. The bitch was the bolt that was torqued at like 300ft/lbs. That took FOREVER to take off.

As for my belts, I had a Ducati mechanic do mine for like for whatever they charged for the job and shims (if needed). Fortunately, mine were all in spec at 10k miles.

Google and youtube helped me find what and how to do the maintenance that I felt comfortable to do.

Good luck!!!!
 
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