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Bon Vivant
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Janusamare87 recently posted about a set of Ducati performance LED signals made for the Monster that fits our Streetfighters. A few of us bought them and I promised to do a DIY of the install so here it goes:

First of all I bought 2 sets of front signals because they mount like a standard aftermarket signal with a single stalk and the wires running through the mounting stud. These will fit most aftermarket fender eliminator kits. This is the original thread with all of the links to all the signals that mount differently. Make sure you order the ones you need to fit your application. As far as blink rate I'm not sure about the 848 SF, it may have circuitry that adjusts blink rate for varying resistance but the 1098SF does not and these signals will blink fast if you do not use a resistor. Although I didn't want this, I'm going to live with the fast blink rate.

Here are the signals as they come:



I'm going to update my tail tidy while I do this - switching from a production kit to a custom made tubular FEK that was made a few years ago by one of our forum members. (These are long gone and no longer available) I've had this thing sitting on a shelf for about 3 or 4 years. Here are all of the parts:

 

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Bon Vivant
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11,334 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Here's what the bike looked like with the stock signals on an aftermarket FEK:




First I removed the cover under the seat to gain access to the wiring. This step is not really needed because you can't do much under there without further disassembly but I was able to take up some slack in the wires while putting everything back together




Then I pulled the 4 screws out from the bottom - they thread into a permanent fastener inside so no need to hunt for nuts.



Everything disconnected and the tail tidy was off. be sure to note which side the signal wires route to.
 

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Bon Vivant
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11,334 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I needed to add some bullet connectors to the license light on the new FEK. luckily I have stuff like that on hand and I have the correct crimping tool to do the job right:




One more crimp to complete installation, don't forget to slide the little silicone insulators onto the wires first:


 

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Bon Vivant
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11,334 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Once I fished all the wires through the tubes I used the included adapter harnesses for the signals and connected it all to the rear stock harness. and then came the tedious job of trying to make all that wiring fit under the FEK.! yikes!




I found it easier to pull the insulators back before connecting the bullets to make sure there was a positive snap into place. Then refit the insulators over the completed connection




The new plate holder came with two sets of signal adapters so that either the stock or aftermarket signals would fit. Now it was just a matter of aligning the signal orientation and stuffing the wires and bolting it all up. Be very careful when bolting this back together, a pinched wire back here will shut your whole bike down.





I did check that everything worked before I put it all together but here it is working after the rear was all finished
 

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Bon Vivant
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11,334 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The front signals are a lot easier and with the adapter harnesses it all just snaps together. The only issue is finding a place for all that extra wire.

To get the headlight off you remove the two screws underneath facing forward and lift the whole unit out of the grommets on the top. I put a big towel on top of my fender so that I lay the headlight on it and move the headlight around without disconnecting anything.




I used a screwdriver to push in the little locking tab that holds the signal connectors together. Then I removed the stock signals


The new LED's come with a grommet that fits the unusual shaped bracket hole for the OEM signals. You can go ahead string all of the parts onto the wire, the nut and washer will slide through the mounting hole on the wire and then snug up nicely once its all fitted in place.



Once you have the signal orientation the way you want it you can snug up the nuts and install the adapter harnesses. Then its just a matter of tying up the wiring and fitting it all back together.

 

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Very nice step by step for those in need.
Well done.
I have done the same thing for my 900ie Supersport and my 100ds Supersport and my CBR. but on my bikes I also upgraded the headlight and tail to LED easy and inexpensive.
Thanks for sharing
 

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Probably not. I could certainly record it but I have no way to upload it. dont have a youtube account and I dont want one.
Suffice it to say that the blink rate does indeed change and it is much faster than stock.

Great write up, FBD. I went to check the blink rate again on my SF848 just to validate my first assessment & indeed it is unchanged from stock. Now, as I mentioned in my original post, I have a Motodynamic integrated LED tail light (w/c has resistors built) w/c I'm guessing is the reason the blink rate remains unchanged.

Nonetheless, aesthetically, the DP kit is a very nice improvement over stock & at an incredibly reasonable price. Looks great on your SFS!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Bon Vivant
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Great write up, FBD. I went to check the blink rate again on my SF848 just to validate my first assessment & indeed it is unchanged from stock. Now, as I mentioned in my original post, I have a Motodynamic integrated LED tail light (w/c has resistors built) w/c I'm guessing is the reason the blink rate remains unchanged.

Nonetheless, aesthetically, the DP kit is a very nice improvement over stock & at an incredibly reasonable price. Looks great on your SFS!



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The 848 came out a couple of years later than the 1098, it is possible that the flashing system does not work based on resistance or that it can detect resistance and adjust accordingly. - I just dont know the technology. The guys that say it hasn't changed are all on 848's I think that is probably the difference. Anyway I am still happy with the change, it looks so much better than the stock lights.
 

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How much do these go for? They are essentially koso he015k14 that go for 70 $ a pair on amazon

The spacer makes a nice transition from round M8 stem to the shape of the original but I could easily 3D print a set of Spacers for dirt cheap.

I'm also very interested in seeing the blink rate on the 1098. On the triumph street triple you could simply replace the relay but that can't be done on the SF, at least not to my knowledge. And I don't like to add bulky ceramic resistors

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
 

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Bon Vivant
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11,334 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
How much do these go for? They are essentially koso he015k14 that go for 70 $ a pair on amazon

The spacer makes a nice transition from round M8 stem to the shape of the original but I could easily 3D print a set of Spacers for dirt cheap.

I'm also very interested in seeing the blink rate on the 1098. On the triumph street triple you could simply replace the relay but that can't be done on the SF, at least not to my knowledge. And I don't like to add bulky ceramic resistors

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
Seriously? you're going to sit down and draw these up in Cad to save 30 bucks? The other thing that you get with these lights is a harness with the correct electrical plug for the SF's wiring. These are $106, the price difference for the mount and adapter harness along with a bunch less hassle is worth it to me.
 

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Well I already have the CAD since I already printed a tail tidy and wanted it to flow nicely with the shape of the existing signals.

You are right about the connectors though, not having to cut the existing harness and crimp on female bullets is a nice feature of the DP signals

That being said, yes I would go through the 2 minutes of 3D drawing, shove this in my personal 3D printer, wait for about 30 minutes for the 4 Spacers to be printed then install the spacers and signals to save 60 $.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
 

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Bon Vivant
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well I already have the CAD since I already printed a tail tidy and wanted it to flow nicely with the shape of the existing signals.

You are right about the connectors though, not having to cut the existing harness and crimp on female bullets is a nice feature of the DP signals

That being said, yes I would go through the 2 minutes of 3D drawing, shove this in my personal 3D printer, wait for about 30 minutes for the 4 Spacers to be printed then install the spacers and signals to save 60 $.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
haha well that 2 minutes of cad work would take me about a day and a half. Care to do some custom cad work for me? :grin2:
 

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The 848 came out a couple of years later than the 1098, it is possible that the flashing system does not work based on resistance or that it can detect resistance and adjust accordingly. - I just dont know the technology. The guys that say it hasn't changed are all on 848's I think that is probably the difference. Anyway I am still happy with the change, it looks so much better than the stock lights.
I've got a '12 SF848. Fitted the same indicators and they flash fast. Some Ducatis have an adjustment in the dash to correct it, not the sf848's. The only way to slow it down is with resistors, I'm not going to bother with that, like it the way it is.
 

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Cool 'write up!' you are the man !
 
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