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Discussion Starter #1
Thought I would start a new thread... It's been a very strange year... I normally build something over winter, but this year I have been busy on my last build all spring and summer, and that is finished and at the back of the garage ready for spring.

So I have started a rebuild on a 1998 Monster 900, a bike I have always wanted to own. I like the looks, and simplicity of them, and they handle great! this will be a straight restoration and I will be keeping it looking the same save for it being red and probably gold frame and wheels. I started the stripdown yeasterday...



 

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1993 750SS
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Nice setup with the recessed lifts 👍🏼
 

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Good call. I had a '93 M900 for many years, and now have a '95 M900. I have found very little that needs changing on them.

PhilB
 

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Too late to say white wheels white frame and black body? The bits and bobs that are leftover gold and aluminum show their quality.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
A straight restoration?
After seeing your other bike builds I'm curious to see if you can resist the urge to change a few things.
I will change a few things, but the look will remain the same, maybe some silencers, oh and I may polish the engine covers rather than paint...


Too late to say white wheels white frame and black body? The bits and bobs that are leftover gold and aluminum show their quality.

Back in the late 90's I used to go to Slaters the Laverda importers... I used to do some paintwork for them... One day I turned up on my Jota and parked next to a red and gold Monster 900 which he had just taken in part exchange... Richard tossed me the keys and said take it out... I was SO tempted! so Red and gold is has to be!
The stripdown continues… so far just one slight hitch… a broken bolt in the swinging arm… soon drilled and tapped out though... I bought a set of cobalt drills last year, they are brilliant for this sort of thing. wish I had bought them years ago!



 

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'06 S2R 1100 Custom, '12 SF 1040
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Always love your threads, your skills and documentation are perfect for this forum.

the only thing cobalt has ever given me trouble with is my effort to Swiss cheese a rear rotor on my frankenbike
996708
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Tried to remove the cush rubbers today as I am going to have the wheels powder coated... the rubbers were good, so I didn't want to destroy them. You can't knock them out as the drift just bounces off the rubber, and there is no way to get to the outer sleeve... So I made this puller, that has a split threaded cotter. its a bit fiddly, but they came out a treat, and I can re use them now


 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just preparing the frame and parts to take to the powder coaters... On the grab handle there were two small dents that I just know that if I left them they would bug me forever, so I TIG brazed them up and filed them down. there is something really satisfying about TIG brazing!

 

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Discussion Starter #11
Looks like the engine has never been worked on, apart from someone has removed the alternator cover and put it back on with what could best be described as glue! normally they come off with a tap, but in this case I had to resort to a puller…

Question to you guys... the engine looks to be very good... zero bore wear... Is there anything I should be replacing while I am in there? did they have weak head studs at 1998?

 

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1998 studs should be good , chrome is bad. That engine is not a 1998 in the US so post up the engine number and we may be able to tell what year it is. 1998 should have a larger charging system than you have shown. I would guess between 1994-1997 and those years could have chrome studs.
also look for the crank plug backing out. Valve guides might be loose by now especially exhaust guides.

Paper gaskets on the side cover are prone to leak so a liquid gasket has always been preferred but must be used properly. While apart inspect shift arm, starter clutch as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Good call n the crank plug... while it was not loose, it was not tight either and came undone with a light twist of a screwdriver!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
the engine is all apart, and I am pleased with its condition... no bore wear, and everything look good. the main reason to take it apart is to bead blast the cases... which of course means a complete strip. I am glad I did it anyway as people have pointed out the crank plugs come loose which damages the cases. While this one was not loose, it was not tight either can came out with a gentle twist of the screw driver... disaster waiting to happen! its locktited in place now...




I hate bashing bearings out,and where possible try to make a puller of some sort… in the case of the swinging arm bearings it’s easy, just a stepped bush (it does destroy the inner seal..) and out they come. the step needs to clear the circlip though… some of the engine bearings are more difficult as you can’t get to the back… for this I made an expandable stepped puller, that expands into the bearing as a bolt rides up an internal taper. with this they come out easy…





To get the bearings out I also heat the cases… I would like to use the oven as its a more even heat… but I can’t for two reasons.. the first is the cases are too big… and secondly she gets upset, particularly as its a new oven! So over the halogen heater it is… keeping an eye on the temperature… I also like to mark EVERYTHING, so it can go back where it came from, and in the same position. I am not keen on centre pops, instead I use a little diamond burr in the dremel… this will even mark bearings and means you can number stuff as well, and it does not cause stress raisers…



Of course parting the cases means the primary gear has to come off… and they are VERY tight… you can forget anything but a really robust puller. here is one I mad a few years ago. with this it came off easily.



The frame and wheels have gone to the powder coaters...
 

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Nice work!
Be sure to boil the cases after blasting , you need the pores of the aluminum to expand and release any blast media that gets forced into them. If you skip this step you will be releasing blast media into your oil when the engine reaches running temperatures and all the new parts become worn rapidly. I have seen a bimota (ducati) 900 fail twice after a rebuild because the oil cooler was where all the media was getting stuck...until it ran long enough.

Also we always have staked the crank plug as well as red loctite, better safe than sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks! I know what you mean about cleaning after bead blasting, its actually hell of a job! clean, clean, clean again, and flush all the oil ways out with Petrol befor you send them in, and of course afterwards!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Has anyone ever run an early monster without the vacuum fuel pump? Do you lose much tank capacity?
 

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I have had customers run without a fuel pump and iirc the bikes started to have fuel issues somewhere around 1/2 to 1/4 tank. Some of this is probably due to hose routing and tank design. Earlier F1's had no pump and fed the motor just fine, their petcocks were in the bottom of the tank just above the carburetors.

The monster tank outlet is almost even with the carbs if not below. Is there a reason to not run the pump? You could switch to a electric low pressure pump but would need a return system. The vacuum pumps work well and do not require a return so are easier to plumb but someone with your skill set could use either with mods.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks Ducvet.. the only reason to ask is it make things cleaner looking and more simple...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
here are the carbs, they are in remarkably good condition! I had some genuine new floats and needles so I used those in the build. I did bead blast the outsides, taking care to use silicone bungs in all the holes… they came out a treat!

 
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