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Discussion Starter #1
I just had a shop install a Ducati Corse anti Hopper clutch on my 999R Xerox and it is slipping. If i throttle it quickly and let off a couple times it tends to grab. I noticed the slippage when i was picking it up from the shop, they told me the plates needed to burn off a film. Now I have been messing around with clutchs on ducatis for a few years and never heard of that. The reason I had the shop install the clutch was because it came from Germany with no instructions, and no plates, so I thought the shop would know the right plates to put in and make sure there where no issues. Problem is the shop i deal with is 5 hours from me. Any suggestions beings it looks like I will be working on this? This clutch only has 4 springs. I thought that maybe if I went with heaver duty springs that it may help. The plates they put in are STM ducati plates.

Thanks
 

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Sounds to me as if they either installed it wrong, or didn't get the stack height correct. Hard to fault them, as they didn't have the information for installation either.

Never have I heard a clutch plate(s), needed to burn off any film....that's where I call BS. The clutch plates should be cleaned with brake cleaner prior to installation, and then be ready to go (this apply's to a dry clutch install only).

I'd remove the clutch plates, and clean them with brake cleaner, then try again. If it is still slipping, I'd increase the height of the plates slightly, by adding another clutch plate, or perhaps a thicker plate.

Also, I know on my bike (stock 748R slipper-clutch), that the first plate is a clutch plate and is then followed by a pressure plate, and then clutch plate followed by a .....you get the idea.

If they installed it ...make sure that they didn't put a pressure plate in first...as in my application...that would cause problems. Just something to ponder.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thats close to the one I got, but mine has the Titanium Hub. I read that I can buy shims for them, or do like you said and try and add a plate. This slipper originally came with friction plates but no steels. The frictions where on aluminum. They told me at the shop that these would burn up too quick and thats why i had to go with the Steel friction plates. This is my first slipper clutch. I own another Ducati a 996 that I had changed everything to aluminum but never got around to putting a slipper in it
 

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If they put steel backed friction plates in an aluminum basket then the part that is gonna need replacing quick is gonna be the basket itself.
Steel frictions are gonna beat the hell out of the basket.
There is nothing wrong with aluminum backed friction discs..except that they are too quiet :D
Sorry but i think they screwed you with the steel v aluminum bs.
 

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a titanium hub and steel plates sounds counterproductive.check your slave cyl to pushrod connection.mine hung up but after the re&re of the slave it was fine (although stock parts)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Im told that aluminum frictions heat up too much for slippers and that it is normal to put steels with the aluminum baskets (they told me its normal to change out the baskets because of wear. From my experience with aluminum frictions on non-slippers is that if you are hard on them and it is very hot outside, they will tend to fade out.
They also said that slippers weigh more than standard (compared to the new OEM aluminum clutch basket and plates) I have weighed all my new slipper clutch parts, but have not got around to weighing my OEM equipment.
I have the stock aluminums that where pulled out of my Xerox and I also have a set of stock steel Ducati clutch plates that I guess I will end up trying out.
I am not too happy about paying nearly $300 for the STM plates that seem to be giving me issues. I also have the friction plates that came with the clutch. They came with 1 less friction but they seem thicker. So I think the thickness compensates for the missing plate.
The titanium hub is really cool though, wow is it light.
 

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My slipper clutch has a Sureflex pack in it(aluminum) and I have not had a problem with it in 90-100 deg weather.
Aluminum also dissipates heat much better than steel.

Replacing the basket might be "normal" after about 10-15k miles but......

I just don't get where these guys are coming from...

Oh well, hope you can find someone to help you out.



Edit: Someone said " hard to fault them as they did'nt have the Information for insallation either"
Actually the fault IS on them for letting a bike go that was'nt right..

J-
 

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Edit: Someone said " hard to fault them as they did'nt have the Information for insallation either"
Actually the fault IS on them for letting a bike go that was'nt right..

J-
Ok, I'll retract my previous comment, and agree with you. I just wanted to give the shop, the benefit of the doubt....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
These 999R fairing are a pain in the A$$ especially the carbon fiber ones. Im getting little cracks here and there from the shop and me taking these things off.. I am so used to how easy my 996 is to work on. This is why I wish the shop would have gotten it right, I cannot belive they let it leave the shop this way.
I Put the aluminum ones in and am still getting the slip. I think it may be the spring tension. I put stock springs in and it acted the same but was even worse , so I think if I can find a set of springs with higher tension it may solve it, or may not, and I will just have to put the stock system back in. I know its not the stack height because I have altered that by changing out the plates.
 

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doublecheck your stack height...

with the clutch fully assembled; look for the inspection holes in the pressure plate. Measure the gap between the clutch drum teeth and the pressure plate (clutch lever released) The gap should be 1~2mm for proper slipper action. If less, the srings my not have enough preload, or the pressure plate will hang up on the hub. Add an extra flat steel plate to increase the gap.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Bella749 said:
doublecheck your stack height...

with the clutch fully assembled; look for the inspection holes in the pressure plate. Measure the gap between the clutch drum teeth and the pressure plate (clutch lever released) The gap should be 1~2mm for proper slipper action. If less, the srings my not have enough preload, or the pressure plate will hang up on the hub. Add an extra flat steel plate to increase the gap.

Thanks!!

Miked everything out, added an extra steel plate towards the back, threw the aluminums in, changed the clutch spring retainers back to stock (gave more movement to the springs had a binding problem with the ones that came with it) Took it out and put the throttle to it pretty hard, ran it through 3 gears, Speed limit is 40 mph on that street, could get in trouble for going over 110 mph. Actually worked! No slippage and I shifted and gassed it pretty hard. So now I have 4 steel discs at that back of the clutch, lol, so much for losing weight. Will see how long the aluminums that came with it will last. They ran one less friction plate because of being thicker. So, now I have all sorts of clutch’s laying around.
I still cant belive the shop could have been that far off and gave it back to me. I paid them to get it right, not to have me fix it. I really did not want to mess with this bike, I dont mind screwing with my 996 but this Carbon Fiber is really touchy pulling it on and off
 

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Glad that worked out. You can still run the extra friction plate by removing some of those extra steel plates. You can also tune the slippage by adjusting the gap, but overall they work well in that range.
 

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I did the DC slipper myself on my Xerox. I used the aluminum frictions in it when I took it apart! I only had to loose one steel as per the directions that came with mine! My clutch is different from yours it has 6 spring?? Whats up with that?????
 

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Oh buy the way I pulled my fairings the day I got her home and I find the carbon fiber much easier to pull than the plastics on my 999s. No cracks either. Just don't try to pull them back to get to somthing without taking all the fasteners out, they dont flex! I put 1/4 turns in where they clip to the front fairing since all the others were already there. One side note, don't put plastic backing washers on the two bottom 1/4 turn fasteners! I thought the factory missed this until I did it and tried to install the fairings! Like I said the C/F pieces dont flex!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Do you have a photo of yours? here is a photo of mine. I ended up using the stock plates that came with the bikes and added another steel to up the stack height, had to do some weird things with washers too and the final result is that it works, lol
[/IMG]
 

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Sorry I never did check back on this post. I would have to pull the cover an take a pic as i have the DP ti cover. (man does that get dusty inside!) The pressure plate on mine is red anno -w- the look of an aftermarket billet one but engraved with Ducati Corse logo.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ducat said:
Sorry I never did check back on this post. I would have to pull the cover an take a pic as i have the DP ti cover. (man does that get dusty inside!) The pressure plate on mine is red anno -w- the look of an aftermarket billet one but engraved with Ducati Corse logo.
Lol, its been awhile since I said that I had worked the bugs out on that clutch. But I really think I did by now, I think I had taken that thing down about 5 more times after that post. I did everything from greasing the ramps to you name it. I finally took out the curved plate all together and ran 3 spacer steel plates on the inside against the crank. Ran it on the track pretty hard, ran it around on the street pretty hard and seems to be doing what it is supposed to be doing. But it will be awhile before I get to run it again cause it is headed to the shop for estimates on damage
 
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