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Discussion Starter #1
A street 999R is 181kg with no fluids. My race bike (ti exhaust, race bodywork (heavy fiberglass), rearsets, carbon air channels, mag eccentric in stem, race front subframe, no fans or street equipment) weights 177kg with a half tank of gas. A street R1 is 180 kg dry (Yamaha Europe specs). A race one is a fair bit lighter. My class is full of 2009 4 cylinders Japanese bikes, 2 Aprilia V4s and a 1098R. I need some help to make the chassis easier to use.

For further weight reduction I am consideing a race fuel tank (4kg loss, is that possible over the steel item?) and kevlar bodywork. To go beyond that I could downsize the battery, invest in ti hardware, magnesium triple clamps and a lightweight ti rear link arm? What else?

Who sells a 999 battery box for a smaller battery? I have found a ti front axle and an engine hardware kit, but does anyone sell a rear axle or swingarm pivot?

Anyone selling a ti rear link? My bike runs a long 749R rear linkage, which makes finding one harder.
 

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Forged mag or BST carbon wheels. Much more effective in reducing weight and in the right place (rotating vs static).
 

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I just sold a Ti link, was for 916 series tho... about 5mm too long for the 749R linkage. Using my highly calibrated hands as scales, I can say it was a a few grams lighter. The problem with the 749R linkage, is the rod is an odd-ball length. The stock adjustment range is 230~240ish milimeters.

+1 on the BST's or Mg wheels. I'd focus more on reducing the amount of un-sprung weight (wheels/brakes) as you'll get more bang for you buck - so to speak
 

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BST's
Tank
Body work

Those will net you the most weight reduction. The other items like Ti bolts and misc will not really give you a huge amount. You will see a change from those three combined.
 

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ETI Fuel cell = 5 lb's difference (10lb's on 749R)
Carbon fiber airbox/runners 3 lb's difference
Titanium axels (front rear) 1 lb's difference
Full Titanium exhaust 12 - 18lb's difference (depending on what exhaust is on the bike already)
Magnesium wheels 6lb's difference (CF wheels 10lb's)
Light-weight slipper clutch 3lb's difference
Light-weight battery 3 - 5lbs difference
Aluminum or Titanium fairing stay 3 - 5lb's difference

Then the basics: Aluminum or Titanium subframe, light-weight fairings, etc...

My 749R weighs 378lb's dry (171kg) with those mods.

If you wanna reduce weight, ya gotta get into the motor, shave some off the crank, get rid of that dam generator unit in favor of a corse one which is lighter and replace all those screws with titanium... ALL of them. There are also magnesium case covers you can get. I've seen 749R's get down to 360, but its hard... :(



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I've got aluminum subframe and fairing stay for the 999, save a few pounds there ? subframe is $350 and the stay is $200 [email protected] if interested ? both come with a 5 year warrantee.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The crank is a lightened and balanced bit, the flywheel is a fraction of its former self. The bike has a CR box and lot of little things done inside the cases. The clutch is a RS 4 post unit. Reat rotor is ti, rear caliper is a minescule brembo unit from a RS. Wheels would be the best (I run a set of BSTs on my other Duc and they are fantastic) but the rules in my series will not allow me to change them. I already have alloy ft and rear subframes.

So, battery, tank, axles (who makes a rear ti axle?) kevlar bwork.

I am also thinking about a corse rear factory swingarm from Pierobon as it is longer and saves some weight. Mag engine covers would also work well.

Also, who sells the corse generator?
 

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You could get the speedcell SBK battery and take the generator off the bike. You will have to charge the battery every couple of sessions but the speedcell battery uses a standard charger instead of a trickle charger so this isn't too bad if you don't mind hooking it up every couple of sessions.
 

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You could get the speedcell SBK battery and take the generator off the bike. You will have to charge the battery every couple of sessions but the speedcell battery uses a standard charger instead of a trickle charger so this isn't too bad if you don't mind hooking it up every couple of sessions.
First, what exactly do you mean, by "take the generator off the bike"? I have a battery similar to the speedcell, theoretically, what would this allow me to remove from the engine? Also, will a trickle charger work with a speedcell or do you have to use a regular charger? Thanks.
 

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It's called a "total-loss" ignition. Allows you to pull the flywheel (as long as it's not an RS ignition) alternator magnet and stator. The ECU/fuel/ignition systems would then be powered by the juice in battery without it being recharged. Was much more popular with carb'ed bikes tho, as the electrical demand is far less than EFI.
 

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I think 999RS's and F's don't have starter motor either which might save a few pounds. Also apparantly the Febur swingarms are slightly lighter than the standard (I don't know by how much) and are slightly longer. The carbon ceramic Braketech rotors are slightly lighter than steelies (if you're allowed to use them).
 

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Taking the generator off the bike is a great idea, especially if you don't race. I disconnected mine this weekend due to tracking down a problem with the bike and the standard light-weight battery lasted almost the entire day without recharging. I feel the speed cell battery would probably last a while, buy two of them and you're good to go. If you race, I think its worth while to have a charging system, but I'm still doing some experimentation with that idea. ;)

Not only would you be removing the weight of the coil's (which are heavy) but also that magnetic lump sticking off the motor! The estimation of lb's lost would be roughly 5 - 7, which is great considering all ya had to do was buy a few batteries.



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Discussion Starter #13
Interesting ideas, all of them. The battery swap and alternator removal would be a cool idea, basically get 2 or 3 small batteries and keep one on charge at all times. Each practice and race is about 20 minutes, and my bike has no fans or lights so that might work ok.

As for the swingarm, if it requires kit RS bits they can be a pain to source. Unlike the 996, not as many privateers ran the 999RS so such parts are harder to find. Unfortunately composite brakes are not legal.

I did make one step forward today To cure my fuelling issues I bought the full monte Nemesis ECU system today, it comes with all the hardware to plug and play, including the closed loop oxygen sensor stuff. Pricey, but there seemed to be no other easy way without a skilled dyno operator and a guy from Dynojet on call.

We shall see how much more power (and smoothness) can be found. I am at about 160hp at the rear contact patch (no idea how much power I lose between the crank and the tire) but the mixture is fluffy rich and stumbles all over itself. I hope the system is easy to use.
 

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My bike was less than 370 pounds.

Full charging system, with lightweight battery

BST wheels

ETI Fuel cell


Tires is a place where you can save a lot of weight. Some tires will weigh 8 pounds more than another set.
 

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As for the swingarm, if it requires kit RS bits they can be a pain to source. Unlike the 996, not as many privateers ran the 999RS so such parts are harder to find. Unfortunately composite brakes are not legal.
Motowheels are quoting four pounds less for this MS Productions swingarm. Might be the titanium parts attached to it which give the weight reductions. The Febur looks very similar and is available in normal (non RS) version. I don't know the weight of the Pierobon swingarms.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Excuse me while I put my eyes back in my head. Nice. Ok, I think I found my 2009 Xmas gift. When they say ti bolts, I wonder if they include a ti swingarm pivot (likely not). I already have a RS under axle rear caliper holder with a RS rear caliper, I wonder if I can use the one I have.
 

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Have you checked with Yoyodyne ?

The crank is a lightened and balanced bit, the flywheel is a fraction of its former self. The bike has a CR box and lot of little things done inside the cases. The clutch is a RS 4 post unit. Reat rotor is ti, rear caliper is a minescule brembo unit from a RS. Wheels would be the best (I run a set of BSTs on my other Duc and they are fantastic) but the rules in my series will not allow me to change them. I already have alloy ft and rear subframes.

So, battery, tank, axles (who makes a rear ti axle?) kevlar bwork.

I am also thinking about a corse rear factory swingarm from Pierobon as it is longer and saves some weight. Mag engine covers would also work well.

Also, who sells the corse generator?
 
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