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Discussion Starter #1
A few weeks ago I noticed my rear rotor felt/looked like something was digging into it (pictures below). It also felt like my rear brake was not working well. So I swapped bikes for a bit and put this one away until I had the time to look at it.

I'm not very good with mechanical stuff but I thought replacing the rear brake pads would be a good start. I just switched them out (old ones looked worn, but maybe had a small amount of life left) and my brake still feels soft. I am well aware that you aren't supposed to use the rear brake much, and I don't. But even pulling into my driveway my rear brake doesn't seem to slow the bike down much.

I swapped out my rear brake pedal during the winter and I feel like I might have fudged something up there, but I'm not sure what I might have done. There is a decent amount of play in my rear brake (more than both my 916's and the 998 I just got rid of) which is why I think I might have messed up.

I have bled my rear brake twice (with the caliper on top of the rotor). Not sure if this is normal, but when I hold down the rear brake and turn the nipple open, the rear brake drops so low it hits the fairing. Feels like 5" or so. Once I close the nipple that disappears, but still feels like a lot of play.

During my online searches I read that improper install of the brake pedal can cause extra rotor and brake pad wear. Wondering if you guys think this might be the case or not.





Not sure if these will help...

 

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I have bled my rear brake twice (with the caliper on top of the rotor). Not sure if this is normal, but when I hold down the rear brake and turn the nipple open, the rear brake drops so low it hits the fairing. Feels like 5" or so. Once I close the nipple that disappears, but still feels like a lot of play.
Sounds like you have not purged all the air from your line. It also sounds like you need a little help with the procedure. Maybe look on you tube for graphic info. Opening the bleed nipple, for example, WILL allow for full travel of the brake pedal. Trick is to close the bleed nipple before letting the pedal back up. The rear is a bit of a challenge to get done.

The bigger problem is that rotor. The pic makes it look pretty chewed up... If that's the case, it needs to be changed. New pads aren't going to be very effective on that rotor. Same reason you resurface (or replace) rotors on your car at pad replace time. You need a smooth flat surface for effective braking. You can't resurface these rotors, replace only. They are all over eBay for not much cash. A bit of work to replace though.

As far as the cause? Don't know. I very much doubt it had anything to do with you replacing the pedal. Worn pads? Caliper pistons sticking? Loose caliper bolts? If it were my bike, I'd already have the rear torn down to replace the rotor. At the same time I'd re grease the hub bearings and rebuild the rear caliper. Maybe rebuild the master cylinder too. Kits are available for both. All the while looking for loose, worn or bent parts.

Oh, and you're missing a bolt on the mid pipe mount!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds like you have not purged all the air from your line. It also sounds like you need a little help with the procedure. Maybe look on you tube for graphic info. Opening the bleed nipple, for example, WILL allow for full travel of the brake pedal. Trick is to close the bleed nipple before letting the pedal back up. The rear is a bit of a challenge to get done.

The bigger problem is that rotor. The pic makes it look pretty chewed up... If that's the case, it needs to be changed. New pads aren't going to be very effective on that rotor. Same reason you resurface (or replace) rotors on your car at pad replace time. You need a smooth flat surface for effective braking. You can't resurface these rotors, replace only. They are all over eBay for not much cash. A bit of work to replace though.

As far as the cause? Don't know. I very much doubt it had anything to do with you replacing the pedal. Worn pads? Caliper pistons sticking? Loose caliper bolts? If it were my bike, I'd already have the rear torn down to replace the rotor. At the same time I'd re grease the hub bearings and rebuild the rear caliper. Maybe rebuild the master cylinder too. Kits are available for both. All the while looking for loose, worn or bent parts.

Oh, and you're missing a bolt on the mid pipe mount!

Thank you!

I did manage to bleed the rears correctly. I adjusted the screw on the peddle to get rid of the slop.


I think I found one of the possible causes. On brake bad looked like it was on its last leg, the other was losing metal from under the pad. As in all the pad was gone and now metal on metal contact was eroding millimeters of metal away. So the rear rotor is toast and I ordered a new one. Should fix things.
 
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