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Discussion Starter #1
So I just purchased a 98 ducati 916 Ive put about 800 miles on it and just ran into my first problem . At first it was at high rpm 7-8 but today on my way home it got worse. at first at the high rpm it would feel like a lack of engagement or false neutral in third gear about 60 mph today it got worse. that lack of engagement started at take off and would have to hold a steady rpm and cruise at about 30 mph in first of second. the bike is running strong and no weird noises at idle and Reving & not cutting off .Im trying to think of the simple solutions first like clutch plates or something .also just got a new chain installed as problem started , could this be a bad transmission symptom. any help would be much appreciated
 

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Agree with belter, sounds like your clutch is slipping.

Take your clutch cover off and check to see if you've got six springs(!)

Next, take the clutch pack apart and measure the friction plates.
Service limit is 2.8mm, with an ideal overall stack height of 38mm +/-2mm.

If you're close to the limit, give them a good clean and reinstall after shuffling.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I figured id just change clutch plates , orings and go with a aftermarket clutch slave cylinder as well as springs for now. see if that solves it, any recommendation on clutch plates thinking barnett or is there better products out here ?
 

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It's either worn clutch plates (recommend Ducati OEM replacement plates) or a incorrectly adjusted master cylinder. If the problem goes away until the bike heats up, it's the master cylinder. No need to replace clutch springs or slave cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
upon inspection the clutch slave ring gasket is split and hanging out. ill just get the extras to make sure its spiffy.
 

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basket and hub are fine. grind the peened out metal from the plate tabs and stack the palte up as assembled and measure the thickness. new is 38.5mm. if it is a couple of mm under that it's fairly worn, but it looks like it has friction material still. you could add another steel plate to preload the springs more, but that's really a bandaid.

refit the pressure plate without the pack and make sure you can bottom the pressure plate on the hub. or get very close to it. that will confirm the hydraulic side isn't blocking it.

otherwise, give the friction areas a clean up and refit and see what happens.
 

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the bellows is just there to try to protect the original. i think it's more pushrod protection than slave bore.

the replacement slave should sit very close to the case, and the later model ones (01>) have an o-ring there.
 

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Another thing that you can do is to stack the frictions so they are at the top of the peak instead of the valley. Quieter and in effect you are starting again with more material on the basket.😃
 

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there should be 2 of 2mm steel plates at the very back, which is what it means by D i think. looks like that to me anyway, in a sort of, if you squint kind of way.

just make it 38.5mm or close to thick.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
so as far as the clutch plates theres 7 (b) in the stack up so I put a 1.5 driven on the end or else it would of been pressure plate to friction plate not sure if thats okay or not . purchased these springs and retainers from bellisimoto they are 4mm instead of 6 owner said I should be fine on oem , any input on these topics would be appreciated
 

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pack it like a normal one - 2mm steel, 2mm steel, friction, 2mm steel, friction, 1.5mm cone steel, friction, 2mm steel, friction, 2mm steel, friction, 2mm steel, friction, 2mm steel, friction, 2mm steel. that should give you 38.5mm ish.

the 4mm spring hats will increase the spring preload, increasing the lever pull. be mind full the springs don't coil bind.
 
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