[the_stig]

Hi guys I bought a ssie about 2 months. It was on the road mechanically good but the body was in pretty rough shape cosmetically. This is my first Ducati and my second bike. I plan on building an 80s endurance racer style. This is the only picture I have of the bike when I first brought it home.

I paid $1700 for it with about 18k miles.

Mods that it already has:
- Rizoma reservoirs all around
- Rizoma grips
- Evoluzion STM clutch
- Pazzo levers
- Ducati Performance Remus exhaust
- Power Commander
- Sargent seat

First things first. I stripped the bike down to the frame. I'm not a fan of the body style of the ssie plus the fairings were in rough shape.

So far I've done:
- I've replaced the tank for a yellow early 900ss tank
(To do this, replace all the internals of the early ss tank to the ssie tank. It mounts on the ssie frame perfectly)
- Replaced the front fairings to the one from the first gen gsxr750.

That's how it looks currently. I plan on possibly adopting either the early ss tail or a second gen gsxr tail.

I'll keep you guys updated along the build.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[J.B.]

I'm sorry if it was covered somewhere else on the forum, you put the tank from carbed SS to fuel injected SS, and it looks perfect. Can I ask, does it mean that most of SS parts are interchangeable between earlier SS and later fuel injected version? Like, for instance, say if you want to just swap an engine or some such things.

 

[the_stig]

Thanks tsmerian.

J.B. from what I've read. The engines will swap straight in between the 650ss, 750ss 900ss and 1000ds of all years as well as the early monster 900, 750. But there are things you need to adapt depending of what engine you use. Say if you're going from a carb engine to a injected engine you gotta worry about the wiring, ECU etc... It would be easier to swap the whole thing. The mounting of the air box is also slightly different from a carb 900ss to a injected 900ss. Hope that answers your question.

Here's an update. I bought a second gen gsxr seat from a few weeks ago and also an early 900ss tail. I quickly mocked them up. I think I like the early 900ss tail better.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[spacey]

Looks to me like that Suzuki tail and seat will just jam your crotch into the tank.

 

[J.B.]

J.B. from what I've read. The engines will swap straight in between the 650ss, 750ss 900ss and 1000ds of all years as well as the early monster 900, 750. But there are things you need to adapt depending of what engine you use. Say if you're going from a carb engine to a injected engine you gotta worry about the wiring, ECU etc... It would be easier to swap the whole thing. The mounting of the air box is also slightly different from a carb 900ss to a injected 900ss. Hope that answers your question.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

Thank you, yes yes, your answer is exactly what I was wondering about!

 

[the_stig]

I agree spacey. I'm going to be running the 900SS tail.

Update: I just sent my front fairings out to get it painted. Should be done in about 2 days. In the mean time, I'll be working in making a mount for the tail fairings.

Glad I can help J.B.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[the_stig]

So I just got the front fairings back from the painter. It looks great. It's a tad bit off though. The shop couldn't find a match from the color codes. Anyway, here's how the bike sits right now.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[the_stig]

I bought the front fairing with custom intake holes in the front so I used those to hold the custom signal lights I made for it.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[the_stig]

I cut the wind screen by 4 inches. I gotta sand it now to clear it up.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[J.B.]

It's odd, but I quite like it! I can't wait to see it complete!

 

[redpato]

To each his own but I’m not liking the fairing. It doesn’t quite flow. But that doesn’t stop me from congratulating you on getting another SS out on the road.

 

[the_stig]

Haven't done much. I properly mounted the front fairing on the frame now and changed the angle a bit. I mounted some small convex round mirrors. Hard to tell in the picture. I also fabricated the headlight housing and quickly mocked up the headlights on.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[steveb64]

So I just got the front fairings back from the painter. It looks great. It's a tad bit off though. The shop couldn't find a match from the color codes. Anyway, here's how the bike sits right now.

View attachment 928093 View attachment 928093

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

The key to properly matching the yellow colour is to use a pink undercoat. So I've been told...

I had this link for the paint - https://www.colorrite.com/product/ducati-yellow-2082.cfm

Sorry - I haven't actually tried this myself yet.

 

[the_stig]

Hi guys. Long time I haven't updated here. Have done much to the bike. Got busy at work. I've just finished mounting the headlights properly.

Going to paint the headlight cover to either black or white.

I have a question about the clutch plates. The bike currently has the STM Evoluzion clutch installed and it needs new clutch plates as I felt the clutch to slip a little bit when I rode it home. Does the STM require specific clutch plates or can I use the stock ones?

Thanks in advance.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[ducvet]

The bike currently has the STM Evoluzion clutch

Slipper clutches wear friction material much faster than normal, due to this a sintered metal pack is used to slow the wear. You can tell the sintered metal packs by the bronze/gold color of the friction material vs more black with gold flecks of a organic clutch. If you have a standard outer basket then oem plates will work you cannot fit the wrong friction plates as the other option is not even close. All of the slippers I have come in contact with either use oem style(12 tooth) or 42 (IIRC) tooth plates.

Before you go changing packs though be aware you usually maintain a slipper by keeping stack height in a usable range. This is done by swapping out steel plates only, often they start with mostly 1.5mm plates and you simply change one or two 1.5mm plates to 2.0mm plates. You can find plenty of 2.0mm plates in a oem pack so if you have the original pack this is where you get your plates from. If it is just starting to slip and there is no other reason such as a oil leak on the plates then I would swap one, if it is slipping considerably then use two.

Know that altering stack height changes how the clutch slips on deceleration so expect less slip when making downshifts. Be sure to test it is slipping normally before you need it to and it chatters the rear.

 

[the_stig]

Thank you for responding ducvet. I have another question about the STM clutch. I saw a video on YouTube of a man disassembling and he pushed the center of the pressure plate to get access of the retaining ring. I tried that method and was not able to push it in. It would not even budge no matter how hard I tried. What am I doing wrong? Do I simply just open the bleeder of the clutch slave so that there is no pressure on the clutch line?

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[ducvet]

Well it may be telling you that the clutch is fine but your Hydraulics are not. The movement should be the spring in the clutch more than the hydraulics. So first I would verify you are not having clutch slippage due to lack of freeplay in the hydraulics.

A quick way to test this will be to un-bolt the slave and see if it can then push in. Do not break in to the hydraulic line at this point we just want the 3 screws removed that hold the slave to the motor. If the clutch then is easy to disassemble you may have a improperly adjusted master cylinder.

It is not uncommon to find a mix and match of aftermarket parts leading to strange settings so if they installed a bunch of non-oem parts and then could not get Neutral it may have been a mix of oversized slave and new pack,improperly installed lever or a cheap Chinese knock off lever. But since money was spent on Bling parts they adjusted out all the freeplay out of the clutch master causing the clutch to slip. Some times this only happens on a hot motor due to case growth but either way make sure it is not just freeplay before tearing things apart.

You should have a good 1/4" freeplay at the lever, if you do not start there.

 

[the_stig]

Thank you for answering. I'll do that just that when I get home from work. On Thursday. I'll keep this thread posted.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[the_stig]

Just updating the build thread. I'm nearly done. I painted the headlight housing black. I made a taillight housing and added some integrated round twin taillights. I just have to wire up the lights and paint the front fender. Here's pictures of the nearly finished built.

I'm thinking of putting some Ducati decals and maybe some pirelli and agip stickers for the front fairings.

I started digging into the clutch but had to stop because I misplaced my 30mm socket. I'll continue again when I get home from work on Monday.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

 

[belter]

get some of the early aprilia rsv taillights with the spaceship style surround.