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Discussion Starter #1
I finally started the bike, after 2 gruelling years of restoring it, and some issues arise:

1. Bike goes into 1st gear, Neutral, but won't go into 2nd, 3rd so on. Any clues?
2. Rear brake caliper - psitons are stuck: do i order a rebuild kit, or try to loosen it?
3. Clutch lever feels mushy, is there any way to adjust that, apart from the level wheel? Everything inside is new, orings, bearings, seals.

Grazie!
Mihai
 

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2000 M900Sie, 2003 Aprilia RSV Mille-R, 2x 1981Guzzi Monzas, IWL Pity, Piaggio Hexagon, PX Vespa
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1. The selector behind the alternator cover is/might be misaligned some how.

2. I have some Caliper spreaders, like a reverse G Clamp, they push the pistons back into the Caliper. Might free them off. You local parts shop should have some. Or Ebay for a used Caliper.

3. Bleed the clutch, or if you are feeling lazy cable tie the lever back to the bar, tap the slave with the handle of a screw driver and the line and leave it over night. Slowly relase the lever the next morning and if you are lucky any trapped air will blubber up into the resevoir. This has worked for me LOTS of times, on the brakes tho'.

Chris
 

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You could pop the pistons out of the calipers and clean up the bores and put them back in and see how they go, I think the seals are hard to get. A new caliper is less than $100.

Not sure which clutch master you have. If there is no bleeder nipple on the master you can crack open the banjo bolt on the master to bleed it. This is the high point in the system. You can stuff around and lean the bike over etc but cracking the banjo bolt as you would a bleeder nipple works straight away. Just make sure you don't spray fluid everywhere (wrap some rag around it as you bleed)and have a bottle of water around to rinse off any spills.
 

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I was having a similar issue. Bled the clutch down and had better results. Noticed that the slave cylinder was pretty grimy. Replaced it with an Oberon unit and everything works a thousand times better.
 

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I finally started the bike, after 2 gruelling years of restoring it, and some issues arise:

3. Clutch lever feels mushy, is there any way to adjust that, apart from the level wheel? Everything inside is new, orings, bearings, seals.

Grazie!
Mihai
Go to the HOW area (Halls Of Wisdom), and look for my "No Bleed" method to remove air from your hydraulic system(s).
 

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Gear selection: at the back of the gearbox is a large nut which is the gear shift plunger, see a manual. Remove this and make sure it's moving as it should and not stuck.
 

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Do you have problems with shifting while the bike is running and while parked?
- Your clutch might not be disengaging completely. (You said it was mushy) Also if you installed new clutch plates they will have fresh tabs that are wider and they could be getting hung up in the wear grooves of the clutch basket. Just had this issue, which after a few miles resolved itself.

Rear Brake Piston: The other day I took the pads out of my rear brake caliper, stuck a wrench (or something) between the pistons and pressed the brake lever to force the pistons out a little without actually popping them out. Then i pushed them back in (its not hard to do, just takes some man strength) and repeated this process a few times. I noticed one side was really tight, but after pushing them in and out a few times they both loosened up. *Note: The tight side would come out much slower, so i would hold the loose side while pushing the brake lever, this would force the tight side out more.

Clutch lever mushy likely due to air/old fluid, as mentioned this could be the shifting issue too... Bleed the clutch line.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You could pop the pistons out of the calipers and clean up the bores and put them back in and see how they go, I think the seals are hard to get. A new caliper is less than $100.

Not sure which clutch master you have. If there is no bleeder nipple on the master you can crack open the banjo bolt on the master to bleed it. This is the high point in the system. You can stuff around and lean the bike over etc but cracking the banjo bolt as you would a bleeder nipple works straight away. Just make sure you don't spray fluid everywhere (wrap some rag around it as you bleed)and have a bottle of water around to rinse off any spills.
Thanks, guys!
About the gear selector: i noticed it works while spinning the rear wheel, so i suspect it's the clutch fluid after all. Lines/new oem slave kit/pads/calipers were all taken off and cleaned, then stored in bags for two years, so i think the calipers have stuck due to lack of brake fluid. I will try the lazy aproach, ziptie the lever till mornin', then try to bleed it again. The pads are the old ones, they don't have much left on them, but they still do the job for the moment.

One question: when i took the clutch paltes off 2 years ago, i ziptied them in the exact order they were in, clutch was running fine and smooth. When i tried to put them back in, i noticed the second plain plate(back to front) was missing. Is there any chance i only had one 2mm plain as the first one in/friction plate/1,5mm plain/friction etc...??
I had a spare plain 2mm plate, and i used teh service manual to properly assemble it. And if so, was it to make teh clutch lighter? Cause it was a dream before.

About the rear caliper, took it apart, pistons were stuck, but the orings were perfect. Gave them a good clean, put them back, and we'll see how it goes. I hope i got the orings right...:think:
The irony is, i had an identical set of caliper/master from a 600ss, but i misplaced it...
 

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No mention of setting the stack height when you reassembled the clutch. If you did not, then read up on it and set the stack height. A Ducati with a hydraulic clutch uses the thickness of the clutch as the free play adjustment, so if the the clutch thickness " stack height" of the stack of clutch plates, isn't correct, the clearance between the actuating rod and pressure plate won't be correct. Too short stack height, the clutch has no clearance and and slips, too much stack height, the rod can't move far enough to push the pressure plate, the clutch doesn't release.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
No mention of setting the stack height when you reassembled the clutch. If you did not, then read up on it and set the stack height. A Ducati with a hydraulic clutch uses the thickness of the clutch as the free play adjustment, so if the the clutch thickness " stack height" of the stack of clutch plates, isn't correct, the clearance between the actuating rod and pressure plate won't be correct. Too short stack height, the clutch has no clearance and and slips, too much stack height, the rod can't move far enough to push the pressure plate, the clutch doesn't release.
I will do so tonite, serivice manual states 36,5 mm total stack height, if i remember correctly, but i will have it nearby and check. Thank you kindly for your input.
 
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