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You hit on something there. Things can be set up with so little bar pressure that when it comes time to really counter steer and work body position that I am lazy and get surprised. I am also guilty of getting tired and coming into a corner with too high of a gear now that I have brakes and power. "It will fight you" Excellent point...
Well you’ve listened some of your shortcomings. Fix them and you may gain 2 seconds and saved yourself a lot of money. Again. Sort yourself out before you start picking on the bike. Follow a faster rider on a less powerful bike and try to understand where and why you can’t keep up.
 

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It is where the rear is too soft
front end rises but the rear stays down
In this case you might have too little anti-squat. Not so much about rear shock settings. Rise the rear so that swing arm angle comes bigger, to maybe 10-11 degrees. It gives more anti-squat and rear wont stay down when accelerating out of corners.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
In this case you might have too little anti-squat. Not so much about rear shock settings. Rise the rear so that swing arm angle comes bigger, to maybe 10-11 degrees. It gives more anti-squat and rear wont stay down when accelerating out of corners.
I was describing a condition jokingly that has been solved. "Motorboating" However - Your 10-11 degrees and raising the rear is almost exactly where I am now. I had to buy a longer ride height adjuster. I have not mentioned this yet but the suspension is Ohlins. Brad Stokes in Hendersonville NC, with Ohlins Factory was able to get me a set of the fork valves used back in the day in Moto America or what ever the national series was back then. He also did custom valves in the shock. So I have an incredibly large range of adjustability. All of which are ridable. I like a stiffer bike than most would tolerate and read my tires for fine tuning.
I am blown away at how high this bike is and how low I can run the front. You are absolutely right about rear ride height and chain angle. The rear is so well planted that the front will lift while still at some lean and the bike lifts its self to vertical with no effort from the bars. God - I love that feeling.

And that is exactly where the problems start if you are trying to pass and need full throttle sooner than later. The damn thing wheelies and does not get the drive it could. I have even tried an unusually high 14/36 gearing it is awesome down shifting and has moved the wheelie out past the end if the curve. But it still lifts just at a higher speed, and it really lifts over crests now.

Thank you for the response.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I am so sorry. I am unsure of what you said. If you mean a "Good" rider adapts and does not make changes to his motorcycle. Then have you ever turned any of the knobs on your shock? Yes a rider in a closed environment can ride anything to its edge. Much lower risk on track.
 

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As we discussed in your other thread, I run a shortened the swingarm that's also modified to take 200 slicks. I also run NCR triples. The triples used to be high on the forks but I don't brake that hard so I dropped them a little. As I mentioned earlier, the bike really turns now. If you are running a track with tight turns, this is the best set up to make those - like the International Horseshoe at Daytona. If not, the bike doesn't exit tightly. It kind of floats out.

I know that others have done the long swingarm but I think going the other way is a huge advantage.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Made the back to back comparison last weekend. Found that the cuts into the bridge of the stock arm are straightforward. Also I rode the piss out of the long arm. It really makes the longer faster smoother stuff better. But - It would never work at Talladega GP. It would have been perfect for the old Rockingham track. I have gone back to the shorter arm Stock gearing and a longer chain. Maybe 6mm over stock. You are right. Next test will be triple tree when I find one not so pricey. Most are trading 900.00 to 1200.00. Thanks for your input. What setback are you running?
 

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Made the back to back comparison last weekend. Found that the cuts into the bridge of the stock arm are straightforward. Also I rode the piss out of the long arm. It really makes the longer faster smoother stuff better. But - It would never work at Talladega GP. It would have been perfect for the old Rockingham track. I have gone back to the shorter arm Stock gearing and a longer chain. Maybe 6mm over stock. You are right. Next test will be triple tree when I find one not so pricey. Most are trading 900.00 to 1200.00. Thanks for your input. What setback are you running?
I cannot remember exactly but I think the offset I’m using at the moment is 28mm.
 
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