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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was searching on forum but i didn't really find answer to my question.

So today i started degreeing cams on my 1098.

Numbers from manual:

Intake opening:15° B.T.D.C.
closing 58° A.B.D.C.

Exhaust opening 60` B.B.D.C.
closing 20` A.T.D.C.

Intake centerline=111.5
Exhaust centerline=110

So first i put horizontal cylinder to T.D.C.
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Than i put feeler gauge between opening shim and openinga arm so there were no slack and zero all dial gauges
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I also set degree wheel to T.D.C
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At this point with feeler gauges still inside i started turning engine counterclokwise (lookint from left side of the engine) until i got 1mm valve lift on exhaust opening stroke angle was 60` B.B.D.C
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Than i continue rotating counterclokwise unti i got 1mm opening lift on intake valve 15` B.T.D.C.
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I still rotated engine counterclokwise until i got 1mm lift of exhaust valeve on closing cycle at this point reading was 17` A.T.D.C

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Stil rotating engine counterclokwise until i reach 1mm lift of intake valve on closing cycle and i got 57` A.B.D.C.

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
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So with my settings:
Intake centerline=111
Exhaust centerline=111.5

Is this correct procedure because in manual they say that you have to rotate engine counterclokwise than clockwise,.. i don't really understand manual.

Is it correct to do complete procedure with feeler gauges between obening shim and opening rocker arm

also probably the best way is to align as close as possible calculated centerlines of camshafts with measured ones and adjust cams so that centerlines align?

Also is there any better cam timing setting than stock. For now my bike is stock later i will install complete termignoni exhaust
 

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i've got a video to edit myself as it happens.

the manual method i don't like - i'd rather go one direction only. i don't bother taking out the valve clearance.

i use 105 for the inlets, and exhausts depends a little. i used to use 109, but tom (tomtom) found that retarding them to 103 worked a bit better overall. i do find that the 105/103 will make an engine that was a little prone to stalling at idle much more likely to do it, or start one doing it occasionally that never did before.

if i was going to flash an ecu anyway i'd use that and add more ignition advance at idle to stop it stalling. but running 105/103 and then having to flash a customer's ecu for free because my cam timing changes have made it stall all the time annoys me and makes me look a bit like a goose. just something to be aware of.
 
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