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Discussion Starter #21
The conversion is almost done!

The special nut has just been made and so for the machining of the clutch hub as you can see from the pics.
Yesterday I mounted the clutch on the bike, in order to find out if the mechanical part works. The space gained from the machining was perfect so I tried, engine off, if clutch works and everything was ok. Now I have to fix some little details, as the color of the engine cover (gold or black) and the oil flow from the primary shaft, but I think this won't be a big trouble, I want use a bush and the OEM seal of the dry clutches in order to stop the oil flow.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
So black or gold? I asked for the ducati magnesium/gold but they didn't have the paint, so they made this gold that is pretty different. Don't know what to do, do you guys can give me an advice? This gold or black?
 

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I asked for the ducati magnesium/gold but they didn't have the paint, so they made this gold that is pretty different.
The colour you have a.t.m. is to bright and doesn't fit your bike i.m.o.

That paint colour isn't that hard to get. Why not paint it yourself? Otherwise go with black and a red pressure plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I don't know what to do actually :| I agree with you that this gold doesn't perfectly on my bike, but with the black I think that area would be too dark, and the clutch would be kinda hidden. Maybe for this year it's better if I keep this color, days are becoming warm and it's time to use the bike not for working on, maybe during next winter stop I will look for the right magnesium/gold paint.

In this pic the special nut completed with his seal and the seeger.
 

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With a black clutch cover and red pressure plate it would tone it down a little and maybe gold would look ok, but there is no other gold anywhere so one gold part like that sticks out like a pimple on a models ass. I’d go with black.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Ok guys, I'm sorry but in the end I decided to use the gold one cover, the bike works great, and the new sound is tastefully! Here's the new pics with the carbon cover installed, hope you like it! Thanks for the support, I hope this thread will be useful for people who want to do the conversion.
 

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I really like the gold, especially with the carbon cover, I wouldn't change a thing.

I like the contrast of the gold against the red. Not a fan of anything replaced has to be red.

Thanks for posting.
 

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That looks fantastic. I am also working on a dry clutch conversion but for my hypermotard 821. I am looking at options for the center hub sealing nut. Would you be willing to make and sell me one of those nuts? Also, I have read that only the DB dry clutch kit (for the 898) addresses the oil flow control set screw and that it isnt actually needed. I spoke with the Kbike rep and he said that Kbike doesnt come with nor need the replacement screw, have you also found this to be accurate?
Great job, thank you for sharing your work.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Hi! Thank you for message it's always a pleasure to see people that want to make the conversion. First of all, I am just an engineer I haven't the cnc machine so unfortunately I cannot make the nut for you. But if you need it, I will be glad to send you my technical drawings with all the dimensions, or the .iges file if you had a CAD program, obviously for free. (in this case give me your email.). In the last month I made a mod on clutch hub, It's very important that you keep the right preloading on the spider spring, with the previous dimensions the preloading wasn't enough so during a violent downshifting all the spheres went out. So, pay attention to height of the nut and how much you mill the clutch hub.

Speaking about the oil flux. Q: do you need a special screw to close the oil passage?A: It depends.
The position of the gasket behind the clutch hub is very important, on the KBIKE clutch for example, the O-R is behind the clutch distance, in the slick side of the shaft so the oil can't go out from the back of the clutch. In the DP conversion there are 2 gasket one in front of the distance and the other on the clutch hub, the oil is blocked around the shaft between the two O-Rings, so in order to reduce the pressure you need the special screw. So it depends on the clutch you want to use.
 

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I'm using the kbike slipper but with my own kit. I machined some pieces as well as the clutch hub. I also was able to tap in the OEM sleeve, needle bearing and seal to seal the shaft. I'm hoping that is enough but I also bought the block off screw that gos behind the sprocket. At this point I'm waiting on the primary gear. I ordered the gears from the 1098 because the clutch hub gear is lighter but the primary gear is splined(all the kits also show a splined primary gear but the hyper 1100, 821/939 is a keyed taper fit). Wanting to keep the lighter machined gear I caught out a taper fit primary gear that is 32 tooth. It came from a 916 ...but come to find out it uses a fine tooth for the oil pump gear. Giving up on the lighter clutch basket gear I ordered a set from a 748. That looks like it will fit but it's not here yet. I did a hydraulic clutch actuation conversion a while back but
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with the kbike slipper clutch it needs a longer pushrod(I had the longer one laying around). Weighing everything it appears as though it will be heavier than the OEM setup so now I'm looking I to lightening the flywheel (or buying a lighter flywheel) while waiting for the gears. Did you end up using the block off screw behind the sprocket? Any tips? It seems as though I'm almost done but might be missing something.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Hi araitim! You did a great job! First of all don't focus on the weight of the primary gears, you won't appreciate any differences, check that the gears will fit on your bike and with the gear of the oil pump. Talking about the primary gears, if the ratio won't satisfy you can work on the trasmission. Last but not least, it would be better if you will use gears coming from the same bike: gears always work in couple so gears coming from the same bike will have the same wear and the same tolerances, so it would be better if you don't mix gears from different bikes.

On my conversion I didn't use the screw behind the sprocket, but I used a different system of seals working inside the nut and inside the shaft. Please post a pic of your seal inside the shaft and show me how you put it on.

From the pics you have posted I cannot see if the nut screwed is pressing on the clutch hub, please remember that you have enough thread in your nut to block the clutch hub,
moreover, the spring must necessarily be preloaded in order to avoid the exit of the spheres when the slipper system will work.
 

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The kbike slipper clutch came with 2 hub nuts. Apparently there are 2 different thread sizes among all the bikes. Those special nuts have a slight raised area to facilitate the spider spring and the back side of it is beveled. I put one of the buts on the lathe and cut the sit side off then milled out the inside just enough to slide over an OEM hub nut(essentially making a fancy washer/spacer in the necessary shape to allow the spider spring to function). The OEM nut is has a 19mm Allen head(I believe it also came off of a 1098 SF). I machined the hub slightly(and I mean slightly) larger than the OEM allen nut to slide inside. That way it would hold the hub on as well as provide support. The recessed area that the shoulder of the nut fits into is slightly deeper than the nut and allows the spacer/washer fully seated which will assure that the full clamping force will be applied to the hub along the spacer(raised area for to allow the spider to flex).

The part number 93040491a is a seal, part number 70250441s is needle bearing and 96855009b is a shim tube that the seal and bearing press into then the whole assembly presses into the output shaft/clutch hub shaft. The seal and needle bearing fit snugly into the tube then the whole tube/shim fits tightly into the input shaft. The whole assembly supports and seals the pushrod(hopefully) . I dont have a pic of the shaft seal but I do have a pic of the needle bearing and sleve/shim tube. One side of the tube/shim is thin and the other side is thick. I pushed the seal in till it bottomed out on the inside of the tube/shim then pressed the needle bearing in then took the whole assembly and drove it into the input shaft with the seal facing out(actually it was the raised area of the shim that was the farthest to the outside.) I figured that would hold the seal and bearing in and not allow the oil pressure to push it all out.
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Discussion Starter #36
Ok I got it! You did a great work on the nut, but are you sure that with the Allen nut you will be able to screw at 132 Nm? The OEM nut of the SF 1098 is exagonal, I'm pretty sure that all Ducati models have exagonal nuts, so as to make more force in the screwing.
This is the OEM nut of a 1098 SF:

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Regarding the seal, I used the same method and the same components inside the shaft. On my bike this wasn't enough to block the oil flux, (I found oil inside the nut) so I made a little disk of rubber inside the nut in order the keep the oil between the exit of the primary shaft and the head of the nut. I cannot say if this will be necessary also on your bike cause you are using the screw behind the sprocket that reduce the oil pressure.
One more thing:

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In this area you should find an hole, please check that the O-Ring inside the k-bike bushing works beyond the hole, on the smooth area of the shaft.
 

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This is what I bought a long time ago. It claims it was from an 07 1098s. After looking at ducatiomaha diagrams there are 4 different part numbers for the 1098 on that nut. I'm pretty confident that the 19mm Allen head will allow me to torque it to the proper lbs. As for the oil outlet on the input shaft, the bearing surface on the basket gear is directly over the hole. The bearing fills all of the space on the shaft leaving no flat surface to add an o-ring before it hits the splined area. On the kbike kit they machine a boring landing into the recessed area on the hub and the male section of the fancy nut seals on there. I did not machine a landing for an o-ring. I intended on using some locktite flange sealant (its actual intended purpose is basically what I'm trying to use it for) on the threaded area. As well as the hub nut. This is where I was concerned about the leaking. I didnt install the lock off bolt behind the sprocket yet. I was going to see if I had any leaks as is. Does that bolt actually stop oil flow or does it reduce pressure? I would think you would still want oil flow inside of that shaft for all of the trans gears.
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Discussion Starter #38
I agree with you, I didn't use the screw behind the sprocket because I didn't want to vary the original lubrication system.
I said that the screw just reduce the oil pressure by observing the OEM bolt. The original mechanism is composed by a screw, a spring and a sphere, this means that the sphere acts on a spherical surface and the oil flux is regulated by the spring preload. By using a pointed screw as the dp One probably you will reduce the pressure, in order to seal completely the oil passage the screw should be spherical I guess, but this Is just my reasoning.
 

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I'm getting really frustrated and need some help. I have spent HOURS looking at pics, counting teeth and taking note as to whether or not the primary gear is taper fit or spline fit and have recieved 3 sets of gears that were wrong. The last time was through Gotham. I explained my issue with the gears I recieved and they basically said 'oops, our bad. We posted the wrong pic' they did offer a refund then stopped responding(granted this just happened but it seems like they only respond with 1 email a day. That on top of a 4 day wait till they actually shipped). The gears that arrived this time from gotham had all the correct dimensions and teeth count other than the oil pump gear(the pic showed it to be exactly what I need). Can you point me at someplace to get the gears i need please. I have been all over ebay and gotham. This is my last piece to get this moving forward. It's been stalled for a month because of this.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Unfortunately I cannot suggest a site where you can buy the gears, I found mine on Facebook marketplace.
But the best choice you can make is to buy gears from Monster 1100 (Not EVO) or Hypermotard 1100 Evo because with these gears you can keep your OEM oil pump. Hypermotard 821 should have tapered fit shaft with a T25/33 primary gear, Cod. 17010511A, this one this same of the Monster 796, ( the bike where I did the mod), moreover Hyp 821 has the same OEM clutch and same oil pump of my bike so I can guarantee that Hyp 1100 evo will fit perfectly on your bike. You will be able to check the working mechanism by mounting the gears without the key and by moving them by hand.
 
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