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This is just for interest and in case anyone else has to drop and ship their motor and is looking for some tips.
I was sent a couple of brackets, which were going to serve as a stand for the engine and be bolted into a crate for shipping. The task was to get the block out of the bike and onto the brackets. The brackets were very simple.. a flat base piece, plus a couple of short lengths welded vertically to each end and with bolt holes at the top.
After reading about using jacks and such to lower the engine, front end first to the ground, I thought about it and came up with my own method. This uses a tie-down strap placed around where the lower cylinder meets the engine block and over the top of the frame. I examined various straps and decided to get a couple that had rubber around the buckles and were not of the ratcheted type. Instead they use a more minutely adjustable friction catch.
I used two straps but could just have easily used one. The only movement of the strap is over the frame rail and so some plastic tape protected that nicely. I had no idea how heavy it all would be once released, but it turned out to be lighter than I thought. It was quite easy to move it up and down using the strap. With the block tilted forward, one can reinsert the upper rear bolt and then fasten the second strap around the ends of that. This strap could have been the first strap re-used as it was no longer needed at the front.
I considered leaving the side covers on the engine and dropping it straight down, but I went with advice and removed them so that I would only deal with one end of the engine at a time. When time comes to lift it back up, I'll examine it all and decide again whether to remove them first. One can always tape the frame and engine case where they might drag against each other... i.e. at the rear.
Moving long.. with the engine bolted to the brackets and already sitting on the piece of MDF that was going to form the base of the crate, I built up the rest of the box around it, right there on the floor. I had placed a piece of MDF underneath so that the piece with the engine on it could easily slide out sideways away from the frame.
I had designed the box to give me 600 x 600 x 500mm internal space. These dimensions allowed me to have a single 2440 x 1220 sheet of 16mm MDF cut up at the hardware store, leaving 1/4 of the sheet over. I also purchased a 2440 length of 1 inch square pine, which I used for additional internal bracing.
I had designed it so that I could build the crate up without having to insert any screws underneath. Everything was to be done from the sides and above. I also wanted the top to be removable for inspection by customs without messing up the integrity of the box.
From memory, the panels were as follows - all 16mm MDF:
2 x 600 x 600
2 x 632 x 600
2 x 532 x 632
4 x 600mm bits of pine for bracing
I ended up purchasing some metal flight-case ball corners just for the bottom of the box. It turned out to be easy enough to tilt the box and fasten them. and they make the whole thing a lot more drag-able. And then I also attached metal handles to each end. These are bolted and with washers for safety.
Shipping the item was fairly complex and I found the shipping agent and receiver to be very helpful. The first potential sticking point was a purge certificate. That can be easy or hard depending on who is involved and whether they understand what the specific regulations apply to. Also important is recording the contents of the box and ensure the engine number is on the documentation to prove that it is one's own engine coming back in, and not a new or replacement one.
I also photographed the engine from all sides and angles using a flash to bring out all details in the finish. This is just for good measure in case something is damaged.
The photos show various steps in this process. It all went well and there were no surprises.
I was sent a couple of brackets, which were going to serve as a stand for the engine and be bolted into a crate for shipping. The task was to get the block out of the bike and onto the brackets. The brackets were very simple.. a flat base piece, plus a couple of short lengths welded vertically to each end and with bolt holes at the top.
After reading about using jacks and such to lower the engine, front end first to the ground, I thought about it and came up with my own method. This uses a tie-down strap placed around where the lower cylinder meets the engine block and over the top of the frame. I examined various straps and decided to get a couple that had rubber around the buckles and were not of the ratcheted type. Instead they use a more minutely adjustable friction catch.
I used two straps but could just have easily used one. The only movement of the strap is over the frame rail and so some plastic tape protected that nicely. I had no idea how heavy it all would be once released, but it turned out to be lighter than I thought. It was quite easy to move it up and down using the strap. With the block tilted forward, one can reinsert the upper rear bolt and then fasten the second strap around the ends of that. This strap could have been the first strap re-used as it was no longer needed at the front.
I considered leaving the side covers on the engine and dropping it straight down, but I went with advice and removed them so that I would only deal with one end of the engine at a time. When time comes to lift it back up, I'll examine it all and decide again whether to remove them first. One can always tape the frame and engine case where they might drag against each other... i.e. at the rear.
Moving long.. with the engine bolted to the brackets and already sitting on the piece of MDF that was going to form the base of the crate, I built up the rest of the box around it, right there on the floor. I had placed a piece of MDF underneath so that the piece with the engine on it could easily slide out sideways away from the frame.
I had designed the box to give me 600 x 600 x 500mm internal space. These dimensions allowed me to have a single 2440 x 1220 sheet of 16mm MDF cut up at the hardware store, leaving 1/4 of the sheet over. I also purchased a 2440 length of 1 inch square pine, which I used for additional internal bracing.
I had designed it so that I could build the crate up without having to insert any screws underneath. Everything was to be done from the sides and above. I also wanted the top to be removable for inspection by customs without messing up the integrity of the box.
From memory, the panels were as follows - all 16mm MDF:
2 x 600 x 600
2 x 632 x 600
2 x 532 x 632
4 x 600mm bits of pine for bracing
I ended up purchasing some metal flight-case ball corners just for the bottom of the box. It turned out to be easy enough to tilt the box and fasten them. and they make the whole thing a lot more drag-able. And then I also attached metal handles to each end. These are bolted and with washers for safety.
Shipping the item was fairly complex and I found the shipping agent and receiver to be very helpful. The first potential sticking point was a purge certificate. That can be easy or hard depending on who is involved and whether they understand what the specific regulations apply to. Also important is recording the contents of the box and ensure the engine number is on the documentation to prove that it is one's own engine coming back in, and not a new or replacement one.
I also photographed the engine from all sides and angles using a flash to bring out all details in the finish. This is just for good measure in case something is damaged.
The photos show various steps in this process. It all went well and there were no surprises.
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