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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Chain & sprockets have approximately 15K miles on them. Always been kept clean and waxed.

14 tooth front, 41 tooth rear.

DID 525 Gold chain.

I observed while checking the adjustment that there is a distinctive tight spot. When the riveted master link runs on either sprocket, the chain is properly adjusted. When the master link is between the sprockets, the chain is very loose. The chain will then contact the rub pad for the pads full length and it doesn't take much hand pressure to do that. Also, lateral movement (side to side) of the chain when the master link is between the sprockets, is 3/4".

Question is, why? Did I scrunch the master link somehow? Is this chain worn out now?
 

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1999 996 Biposto, 2002 Monster 620 Dark
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Slowly roll the chain around and look for binding links. The master could just be a coincidence but it does look like you have a binding link some where. Also 15K is a pretty good life for a chain. I would replace it if it were me and not worry about it. And make sure it is adjusted properly, tension and alignment.
 

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Looks too “scrunched” to me (master link). My chain kit came with a go-no-go gauge. I dunno if any of the major ones sold here in the US come with them. Also, I thought RK had a measurement in their install instructions.

The main thing is, the master link pins are peened enough to keep the cap plate on but not so much the link binds up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I haven't found any links binding or difficult to move with my fingers, including the master link. Maybe when I get the chain off I'll find one. It just seems odd that the chain gets taught only when the master link is on a sprocket.

I'm going to replace them. Now where did that sprocket tooth calculator get to?
 

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15,000 miles on a chain/sprockets is an acceptable wear limit given the environment it functions in. Run it longer and you will risk possible catastrophic results if/when it breaks and takes out the engine case. Chains/Sprockets like tires are consumable wear items. Do you run tires till the cords are showing or do you err on the side of caution and replace when you are down to the wear bar indicators. Same with chains, its trying to tell you please replace me.
 

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Or you can be as lucky as myself & have one snap doing 90 on a dry lake bed running 3rd overall desert racing 8 Miles from the finish getting caught in the rear chain guide locking up the rear wheel.

Grabbing the clutch is futile you just hang on for the ride to the ground.

If not for being half assed soft dirt it would have removed alot more than my leathers.


Chain failure instegates some real spectacular yard sales spreading you & your bike Parts over large distances.
 

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Barstow to Vegas 1984 following Rossler, smith & Ashley with all of of us riding 500XC Husky 6 speeds.....WFO in 6th for over 2 miles on the jean dry lake bed supposedly clocked @ 115mph at our peak speed then slowing down for the turn into open desert coming into if memory recalls buffalo bills casino for the finish when my chain broke.

After it was over Rossler looked for me at the finish....i never made they did find me later wanting to know who this unknown rider was hanging with them they had no idea who it could possibly be.

It was me a 22yo farm boy from Wyoming with a crazed look in his eye with no fear & built like a brick shithouse.

It was my one & only B to V race that I later found out was the last race ever due to turtles, tree huggers & BLM bullshit.

I did ride a few duel sport LA-B to V rides in 2003 04 08 & 15 on KTM's on basically the same course remembering alot of it.
 

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Chain wax is not good for your chain life.
Start by stripping all the wax off and re-checking I find waxed chains often bind from buildup, if you do run it then you should be stripping it clean every 3-4 lubing.

I have customers who like the anti fling and clean look running wax they on average lose about 20% of average chain life. My AVERAGE for a 525 chain is 18000 miles so you may be close. If it takes you many years to wear the chain to this point it may be worth it to you to run wax where if you put miles on fast the lower lifespan may point to trying a better lube than wax.
 

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Huh
I've used maxima chain wax for 30k miles on one of my hypers.....it's still going strong.

I do clean it hot with WD40 before every lube

EK525X ring chain & steel sprockets
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
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"I do clean it hot with WD40 before every lube "

You sir are a Unicorn.
The wd40 cuts the chain wax( i use it to remove the stuff) so essentially you are doing as I mentioned above "if you do run it then you should be stripping it clean every 3-4 lubing. " you are simply stripping it off every time before applying a new coating. Nothing wrong with that and your mileage points that it works for you. Now if you could simply do the same for the rest who will not do it, they would appreciate you service. ..lol

I struggle to get customers to apply lube to their chains let alone clean them every times as well, if you work in a motorcycle shop for a while you will see how much of a unicorn you are.
 

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I do mine after every ride while it's still hot..wipe it down with WD40 top, bottom & both sides then I wipe off both sides of rear sprocket till clean then spray the shit outta the inside of the chain while spinning rear tire for at least 15 to 20 revolutions while it still has heat in it then go inside & pull off my riding gear while looking out the window for any slow moving cops checking out the hood looking for a red noisy motorcycle.
 
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