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Does anyone know a good resource for specific directions on draining, refilling and bleeding brake/clutch lines?

Thanks,
Rob
 

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+1 on flushing the system.

Getting all the air out of an empty hydrallic system is a pain.

I use a big 500cc plastic syringe (buy from any pharmacy) and suck almost all the fluid out of the reservoir. Refill the syringe from a new bottle and PUSH that new fluid from the bottom bleeder bolt UP towards the pump and reservoir.

That way you aren´t working against the air, since it wants to rise to the top anyhow. Works in 2 minutes on my front brakes and clutch. Rear is abit more difficult, but the same principle.
 

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amullo said:
+1 on flushing the system.

Getting all the air out of an empty hydrallic system is a pain.

I use a big 500cc plastic syringe (buy from any pharmacy) and suck almost all the fluid out of the reservoir. Refill the syringe from a new bottle and PUSH that new fluid from the bottom bleeder bolt UP towards the pump and reservoir.

That way you aren´t working against the air, since it wants to rise to the top anyhow. Works in 2 minutes on my front brakes and clutch. Rear is abit more difficult, but the same principle.
Interesting! Does this introduce bubbles or are there so few that it gets pushed up towards the reservoir anyway, no bleeding required afterwards? Do you have to modify the tip of the syringe or is it good out of the box?
Thanks
 

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I had to take the rubber tubing of my "old" bleeder and attach it to the syringe to make an airtight seal between the bleederbolt and the syringe.

The syringe is purged of air in the same way that doctors do (top up and klicking it with your nail)

Since the bleederbolt is facing UP, i put the syringe on there (with the rubbertubing to conect the syringe to the bolt) and wait a while so that any air that has come in rises to the top of the syringe (Where the plunger is).

No air in the system at all, since your using the syringe to force the fluid towards the top, the entire system is under positive pressure. You´ll get a leakage of fluid instead of sucking in air.

No more bleeding is necessary, since your pushing the air towards and out of the reservoir.

It´s fast, easy and doesn´t leave a mess.
Just be sure to unbolt the master cylinder and tape it up so there is a continous rise in the lines all the way to the reservoir. (if you doen´t, some air may be trapped at the junction between master cylinder and hydrallic lines).
 

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I've always used a vaccum bleeder to refill empty brake and clutch lines. Very quick and haven't had a problem. Just pour the fluid into the reservoir and pull it out bleed screw.

I just installed a motowheels slave cylinder and used the same procedure, except for pumping the lever to fill the cylinder, then pushing the cylinder in to get the trapped air into the line (where the vaccum sucks it out.)
 

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Interesting method, Amullo. Makes good sense to me. If anyone else tries it, just be sure to keep a close eye on the fluid level in the reservoir. If you overfill there it will spill out onto grips, dash and painted parts, and brake fluid is some bad stuff for soft finishes. It WILL etch your gauges and eat paint if left on. So, try not to spill any, and wash off immediately if you do.
 

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A tip.

If you do spill brake fluid, spray it with WD-40 to wash it off.
Breaks it down quickly, and the WD-40 doesn't hurt anything.
 

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rearviewmirror said:
This is an awesome deal on the top bleeder system from Mityvac, it usually sells for $80-100.
Yes, it is!;)
 

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amullo said:
+1 on flushing the system.

Getting all the air out of an empty hydrallic system is a pain.

I use a big 500cc plastic syringe (buy from any pharmacy) and suck almost all the fluid out of the reservoir. Refill the syringe from a new bottle and PUSH that new fluid from the bottom bleeder bolt UP towards the pump and reservoir.

That way you aren´t working against the air, since it wants to rise to the top anyhow. Works in 2 minutes on my front brakes and clutch. Rear is abit more difficult, but the same principle.
How do you keep the fluid from leaking out of the slave bleeder? Even with a hose clamp it leaks quite a bit.
 

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I refresh from the top down. I use a B&D syringe from the pharmacy then get a length of aquarium air tube. Attach it to the syringe the other end to the bleeder nipple.

After refilling the resivoir with new fluid, crack open slightly the bleeder then sloooowly pull the fresh fluid down. Once you see clean fluid stop. and your done. Throw tube abd syringe away or stash it in a plastic container for the next time.
 

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dartfrog said:
I refresh from the top down. I use a B&D syringe from the pharmacy then get a length of aquarium air tube. Attach it to the syringe the other end to the bleeder nipple.

After refilling the resivoir with new fluid, crack open slightly the bleeder then sloooowly pull the fresh fluid down. Once you see clean fluid stop. and your done. Throw tube abd syringe away or stash it in a plastic container for the next time.
You've got the syringe attached to the slave nipple or the master nipple?
 
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