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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Disclaimer: Im not a mechanic, im not good at explaining things, perform at your own risk and most importantly, not responsible for damages caused by this DIY instructions.

Tools needed:
3,4 and 6mm hex key
12 and 13mm wrench
10mm socket wrench
Small pliers



Step 1: Disconnect the negative battery terminal.

a) Remove the tail cover, unscrew the two 3mm hex screw that is holding the compartment tray, lift up and you will see the battery. Use the 10mm socket wrench and set the terminal aside.





Step 2: Remove the seat to access the ECU.

a) Lift the outer rear edge of the seat and you will find a 3mm hex screw on each side. Remove the screw, lift the seat and pull back.



Step 3: Install the new ECU

a) Now that the seat is gone, the ECU is located under the two fuse box along with the battery. Simply pull the two fuse box out of their retaining clip and set aside. There are two 6mm hex screw that is holding the ECU in place, the right side screw also includes the power wire or maybe ground for the ECU. Remove the screws, wiggle it out and remove the two clamps for the connectors (push the pin and pull the lock) WARNING Do not use force, it should release and attach just from pulling and pushing the lock. Install the new ECU using the steps in reverse .













Step 4: Install the air filter.

a) The air filter is located on the right side below the tank. Unscrew the two 3mm hex screw on the front and the rear 4mm and remove the cover. Slide out the old filter, install the new one and replace the side cover.





Step 5: Exhaust installation.

a) I'm not going into details with this since its fairly self explanatory when you see how the exhaust attaches. Only thing you need to do is bend the hangers from the header pipe where the exhaust springs hooks. There is a bit of a slack when you install the exhaust springs without doing the above.





Step 7: Double check everything and replace the battery terminal, covers and seat. Switch the key to the on position and check for unusual readings. If everything looks normal, remove the key. Note: The ECU will change the display to EURO, dont freak out, just read below.



Step 6: Programming the display to USA version.

a) While the key is in the ignition, press and hold the lower button and switch the key to the on position, the display will read "00000". Press the upper button and it will read "MEM", press and hold the middle button and the display will read "ECU". Keep pressing the upper button until it reads "USA", then press and hold the middle button and it will read "MEM" again. Turn the ignition to off, turn on and it should display the USA version.

NOTATION: I'm still going to the dealer on Tuesday to get everything checked and adjusted. Initial impressions are positive in my 80 mile test ride, the rumble coming from the new cans sounds mean and the 3500 flat spot and dip seems to be non existent.

 

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Thanks for posting that - it's very clear. One question - is it pretty obvious how to remove the two fat connectors to the ECU? I've never seen that type of connector before.

Also, I've read about getting the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) re-calibrated once you're done. Does the bike run badly until that happens?
 

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My dealer said I needed to have them do this install because "the key needed to be re- coded to match the new ECU".

??

Is that BS?

I ask because the pipe /kit are on order, and they have PRE CHARGED ME the 3 hours labor to put it on!!

I have never had the need to take my bike to the dealer, but felt like they had a hook into me becuase of the "re-coding of the ignition key".

Thoughts/ comments?

THANKS
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks for posting that - it's very clear. One question - is it pretty obvious how to remove the two fat connectors to the ECU? I've never seen that type of connector before.

Also, I've read about getting the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) re-calibrated once you're done. Does the bike run badly until that happens?
You're welcome. Just press the tab (pics shown) and pull the plastic lock. Do not use force, it should release and attaches just from pulling and pushing the lock. Ask me how I know not use force on this kind of connectors?;)

Yes, im getting my TPS re-calibrated on Tuesday. Dont quote me on this but the tech (know him fairly well) told me that if you're not deleting the O2 that the TPS is the only thing that needs to be checked. Moto runs fine to me (80 mile test ride, cruising at 85mph, 85 to 110mph short sprint and full WOT at times), idles steadily, no light warnings etc.

ds tiger: My moto is the proof that you do not need the "key re-coded" and 3hrs labor is highway robbery. If i have to do this again, it would only take me an hour from start to finish. If you're in Norcal, I wouldnt mind assisting you with the install. Its much more satisfying when you do your own minor work instead of handing the key and your wallet to the dealer. You can learn a lot on how things work by working on your own moto. Things like where this and that go or if you have missing bolts that Ducati overlooked:rolleyes:. Also, you tend to be extra careful when its your "own".
 

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Asado: Thanks Bro- I am in TX.

I agree. I am going to have a chat with dealer - as I am still waiting for parts.

I have the VDSTS specific for this bike and I can reset the TPS myself.

I would appreciate it if you would repost after your dealer resets the TPS, that in fact is the only setting that needs to be addressed after the pipe and ECU install- so thanks in advance for that too.

Steve
 

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Asado: Thanks Bro- I am in TX.

I agree. I am going to have a chat with dealer - as I am still waiting for parts.

I have the VDSTS specific for this bike and I can reset the TPS myself.

I would appreciate it if you would repost after your dealer resets the TPS, that in fact is the only setting that needs to be addressed after the pipe and ECU install- so thanks in advance for that too.

Steve
Steve, did you ever get this done or do it yourself? I should be getting my SFS this week from ducati austin and curious what happened. Feel free to PM if so inclined.

Thanks...Jack
 

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Sito- PM sent

My dealer did not know me from Adam. I am assuming they "assume" most cutomers want them to take care of the bikes for them (??). Ducati branding and high end marketing blah blah.

If they knew me- that would not have been the deal with me (charging me the install, etc). I am a dirt under the fingernails guy.

So at this point- I do not care to throw $hit, just get the deal that works for me.

Cheers- Steve
 
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