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I tried the screwdriver trick at first but it was slipping out. Then I used wooden shims from h Home Depot and they held great. Had to remove cams several times though, everything had to be absolutely perfect 馃榾
 

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Maybe I am missing the point, But to install the half rings. I use a screw driver with a little spot of Vaseline to hold the slip ring in the correct position and I put a little blob on the valve so the ring sticks to the valve....I found the trick to position the slip ring on the screw driver so it is correctly oriented to just push onto the valve groove. Worked pretty well....I use the same method when rebuilding heads on cars too, but those have a lot more room and are not hanging sideways.
 

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I believe they are referring to using a screwdriver for holding the closer rocker arm depressed. For the Multi, I ran a healthy sized ziptie through one of the holes in the rocker arm. This acted as a great handle. Meanwhile, I used a small bit of grease on a screwdriver as you describe for putting the half rings in place. For the Hyper, I used one of these to hold the closer down:
http://emsduc.com/product/rocker-holder-tool-2v-7mm/
 

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Now I get it. I used some safety wire.
 

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I believe they are referring to using a screwdriver for holding the closer rocker arm depressed. For the Multi, I ran a healthy sized ziptie through one of the holes in the rocker arm. This acted as a great handle. Meanwhile, I used a small bit of grease on a screwdriver as you describe for putting the half rings in place. For the Hyper, I used one of these to hold the closer down:
Rocker Holder Tool 2V 7mm-8mm | EMSDUC
I have that tool. It slips off the closing rocker arm too easily.
 

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Nice photo write up, thanks! Good to know that the procedure isn't much different than my 749 and 999.

I took my MTS to the dealer for the 15k only because it was the middle of the riding season and I didn't want the bike to be out of commission for the 2 weeks it might take me to do it myself. But, I ended up regretting that decision, not because of the cost (<$900 including checking the valves, replacing air filter, belts, spark plugs, oil filter, Motul 300V and coolant flush), but mostly because the dealer did a half arse job on the valves. According to the notes of the valve readings I got from the dealer, they were all "technically" within spec, but not a small number were right on the border line. Instead of changing out the shims to tighten up the tolerances while the mechanic had the bike apart, they just leave everything as is! Pissed me off because now I'll most likely be out of spec before I get to the 30k mark.

This lends more credence to the old saw; if you want something done right DIY! Armed with your fine photo guide, I will be doing this myself next time around.

BTW, I would agree that the testastretta motor is easier to work on than the 2Vs. You do have twice as much measuring to do, but it is actually a quicker job because you don't have to fiddle with depressing the rockers. But, overall, I found the experience is a positive one as it gives you a sense of accomplishment, as well as a better knowledge of how the bike functions.

The most common error I made in replacing valve shims was getting them too tight. A slightly loose valve clearance isn't going to blow up the motor, but if they are too tight, you could damage the valves and or seats. Be sure to manually spin the engine with the turning tool with the plugs out to make sure there is no resistance.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
I took my MTS to the dealer for the 15k only because it was the middle of the riding season and I didn't want the bike to be out of commission for the 2 weeks it might take me to do it myself. But, I ended up regretting that decision, not because of the cost (<$900 including checking the valves, replacing air filter, belts, spark plugs, oil filter, Motul 300V and coolant flush), but mostly because the dealer did a half arse job on the valves. According to the notes of the valve readings I got from the dealer, they were all "technically" within spec, but not a small number were right on the border line. Instead of changing out the shims to tighten up the tolerances while the mechanic had the bike apart, they just leave everything as is! Pissed me off because now I'll most likely be out of spec before I get to the 30k mark.

This lends more credence to the old saw; if you want something done right DIY! Armed with your fine photo guide, I will be doing this myself next time around.
When I went to the dealer to get shims the service manager was being helpful and asked to see my measurements. He told me they all were within tolerance and there was no need to adjust any of them and if they were doing the service they wouldn't. But like you said why wouldn't you adjust a clearance that was boreline after having it all apart? Because that would take the mechanic longer and time is money.
I had a dealer mechanic (Jap) tell me that he could just listen to a motor and tell if the valves needed adjusting. Not saying all dealers are pencil whipping the service but I don't trust anyone and want to do it myself so I know its done right.

And that holds true for everything. Recently the wife convinced me to hire a contractor to lay floor tile in the house. They installed it in record time and the quality of the install shows it with tiles being uneven and several hollow. So I agree 100%, if you want something done right DIY!
 

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Im just finishing up the 50,000 mile service on my '12. The Duc mechanic, that did the 15/30,000 mile service told me the valves would not need to be checked as they dont move after the 30,000 mile service. So, I checked them anyway (they were perfect) and did everything else (belts/fluids/etc). Did I have any issues? Yeah.....

Vertical cylinder: getting the belt on was a bitch, but I finally managed it. The intake cam rotates and getting it back to its proper position WHILE trying to get the belt on was.......fun!

As I posted earlier....the bottom bolt, holding on the air intake snorkel, just spun when I tried to remove it. Short story: I removed it, bolt/brass fitting in one piece, and then glued it back in. I also used liberal amounts of anti-seize on the 3 bolts holding the snorkel on. The 2 others 'popped' when I removed them so..... Since I was the last guy to have it apart, Im flumoxed. Im OCD when it comes to putting my bikes back together and the only thing I can think of is during my rides, in 'weather', some how it got slightly stuck. Be careful when putting those pesky snorkel bolts back in....
 

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I appreciate this thread, thank you for the time and info. good reads!

3B43 that's good to hear how the valves have behaved for you over 50k! Sounds like you've been putting the miles on. How does the motor behave for ya as far as feel and operation at 50k vs new?
 

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Such a great post , has given me the confidence to do the valve check my self when the time comes , well done .
 

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Talking about valve adjustments, I was cleaning out my toolbox last weekend and came upon these tools. I remember buying them from someone on some forum a few years ago. He made them, and they were supposed to be used for Duc valve adjustments, although I'm guessing probably 2V. Looking at them today, I haven't got a clue. They look like something my dentist would use in 'Little Shop of Horrors'.

Anybody see any way to use these things on valves? Just curious...
 

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As I posted earlier....the bottom bolt, holding on the air intake snorkel, just spun when I tried to remove it. Short story: I removed it, bolt/brass fitting in one piece, and then glued it back in. I also used liberal amounts of anti-seize on the 3 bolts holding the snorkel on. The 2 others 'popped' when I removed them so..... Since I was the last guy to have it apart, Im flumoxed. Im OCD when it comes to putting my bikes back together and the only thing I can think of is during my rides, in 'weather', some how it got slightly stuck. Be careful when putting those pesky snorkel bolts back in....
I had the same problem with one of them. The insert that is molded into the airbox is just too small for that size bolt. Like you, I eventually was able to spin it out so what I did to fix it was took an M6 bolt (M6x30) and bolted it in from the inside out with the threaded "stud" sticking out. I put as flat washer and regular nut on the outside to hold it in place and the nut fits under the molded part of the snorkel. Then to attach the snorkel I used another flat washer and a second M6 nut. I attached a photo but overlooked taking one with the air snorkel off! :crying:



DD
 

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I have just finished doing my valve on my 2013 MTS GT and I'd like to add a couple of tidbits to this already awesome thread.

1) I read the manual and removed the air box. if you don't need to then do not; it added several hours on and off.

2) Spinning molded nut, I fought with one for a couple of hours and came up with the idea of using and EZ-Out chucked up in a drill so that I could spin and melt the plastic while pulling it out as to only heat the plastic where I was removing the fastener. I then cleaned up the hole and set the nut back with marine epoxy and was sure to check thoroughly for leaks. All fasteners received copious amounts of anti-seize once apart, I'd rather pay for lost screws than buy a new tank.

3) keep track of where the hoses that come from the fuel cap go, I'd recommend using a piece of string. I didn't and it took me quite some time to figure out the right path. As an afterthought this won't be an issue if you don't remove the airbox.

4) I expected I could measure and shim the clearance without torquing the the cams in place. I was mistaken. Once the cams were torqued and belts "tuned" a couple of the closers opened up about .0015"

5) while measuring closer shims if you use digital veiner calipers. If you zero the tool run it out to 10mm (the size on my measure tool) re-zero, then measure the closer you have added enough tolerance stacking to screw you up. I'd recommend just subtracting the dimension not using the adjusted zero. With the caliper you are already working at the limits of its resolution and accuracy.

6) There are 2 hidden fasteners inside the "Fuse" insert and 1 inside the right side compartment and one hidden underneath! You cannot get those pieces out without removing them, but you can damn sure put it back together and wonder why you have 2 little black screws left over!

7) This tip seams to be money after reading the thread. I used a synthetic champagne cork wedged into the head to hold the rockers open: see attached. You will can see that I use a section of tubing to plug the oil holes, we wouldn't want to drop a 1/2 ring into the motor. I also safety wire the valves open if I am going to move the piston out of TDC in order to work on the other cylinder.

8) Watch for oil dropping when you remove the vertical rocker cover. If you are working on your bike on a lift or stand the oil will stay hidden until you use your kick stand then you will be rewarded with a search for an oil leak that doesn't exist because you have a tiny bit of oil running down by the shifter ;) .


t_bare
 

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Talking about valve adjustments, I was cleaning out my toolbox last weekend and came upon these tools. I remember buying them from someone on some forum a few years ago. He made them, and they were supposed to be used for Duc valve adjustments, although I'm guessing probably 2V. Looking at them today, I haven't got a clue. They look like something my dentist would use in 'Little Shop of Horrors'.

Anybody see any way to use these things on valves? Just curious...
I waited, (and waited) but no one else chimed in so:
The lever with the two holes and the two pins would be for holding the belt tensioner in place while tightening the tensioner nut. Otherwise the tensioner tightens it's adjustment when it is secured. I used two drill bits instead of the pins with a screwdriver levered between them, a more precarious way to hold the tensioner still while tightening it up with the other hand.
I don't know about the other stuff in your picture.
 

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Just referenced this excellent post again as I dive into my 30k check up.
Got the rad off and valve covers exposed, but was wondering if someone with an ABS Multi could tell me the trick of getting to this state:
The vertical belt cover is wedged in there very tightly and the ABS lines seem to be in the way.
 

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Mine looks like this.


Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

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Ducseeker,

I may have loosened up the hardware that held those brake lines in place in order to move them. My memory is sketchy on that, I had bigger issues with spinning well nut and various surprises left by the hack mechanic that did some warranty work.

t_bare
 

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Ducseeker,

I may have loosened up the hardware that held those brake lines in place in order to move them. My memory is sketchy on that, I had bigger issues with spinning well nut and various surprises left by the hack mechanic that did some warranty work.

t_bare
You're memory is just fine, Tbare. Had to pop a couple of zip ties and remove the cover holding the lines down under the seat, then was able to wiggle it out.


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OK, I need some help refitting my vertical cams... I got the marks on the belts and cams screwed up by letting the vertical belt skip some teeth while moving the crank. And I hadn't marked the vertical belt at the crank pulley...Screwed that up royally! According to LT Snyder, the "T" on the pulleys should be pointing at 5 o'clock with the horizontal at TDC, so that where's where I tried to set them up. The engine will rotate fully through the firing cycle in this position, but that doesn't necessarily mean I have it right...
 

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